Topic: What did you do to your bike today ?

[lucky]

Rode for awhile (72 degrees here) and got tired of hearing that 33 year old factory chain makin noise.  Now I'm sittin in the basement watching the Falcons kick a little a$$ and discovering that these dang thangs have endless (no master link) chains.  Do ya have to take the D#m swingarm off just to replace the chain??

 How bout a good boltcutter:)

Removing the swingarm is one way.

Most will "cut" the chain by grinding the heads off 2 pins and driving out a link. Most new chains are sold with a peen type master link which requires a special tool or skill to peen over the heads of the pins to make it "endless".

Don't lose hold of the chain after cutting. YOu will hook your new one to it and pull it thru the sprocket.

Many of us just buy a chain with a traditional clip type master link. I'm not afraid.

Back in my racing days we would safety wire the clip onto the masterlink for tech inspection. Never saw one I trusted was properly installed come off.

"Many of us just buy a chain with a traditional clip type master link. I'm not afraid."
It is very funny to hear you say that because a regular chin with master link and clip is what I grew up with and do not want the hassle of the "O" ring chain.

As far as safety wiring a master link clip on.....Try it. If you can make it work it is just something to get caught and tear the clip off. If the clip is installed correctly it will not go anywhere. I just do not see any way you could safety wire a master link clip on a chain.

[heffay]

A quick google search will bring up many different attempts.  But, this would be my suggested way...



not the clip though.

[MCRider]

Rode for awhile (72 degrees here) and got tired of hearing that 33 year old factory chain makin noise.  Now I'm sittin in the basement watching the Falcons kick a little a$$ and discovering that these dang thangs have endless (no master link) chains.  Do ya have to take the D#m swingarm off just to replace the chain??

 How bout a good boltcutter:)

Removing the swingarm is one way.

Most will "cut" the chain by grinding the heads off 2 pins and driving out a link. Most new chains are sold with a peen type master link which requires a special tool or skill to peen over the heads of the pins to make it "endless".

Don't lose hold of the chain after cutting. YOu will hook your new one to it and pull it thru the sprocket.

Many of us just buy a chain with a traditional clip type master link. I'm not afraid.

Back in my racing days we would safety wire the clip onto the masterlink for tech inspection. Never saw one I trusted was properly installed come off.

"Many of us just buy a chain with a traditional clip type master link. I'm not afraid."
It is very funny to hear you say that because a regular chin with master link and clip is what I grew up with and do not want the hassle of the "O" ring chain.

As far as safety wiring a master link clip on.....Try it. If you can make it work it is just something to get caught and tear the clip off. If the clip is installed correctly it will not go anywhere. I just do not see any way you could safety wire a master link clip on a chain.

I meant to say an ORing chain with a traditional clip type link. I will never go back to a non-ORing chain. The clip link which takes ORings was a major improvement as well, for ease of installation.

When I was racing it was REQUIRED to safety wire the clip onto the link. Very simple to do, VERY effective as clips do come off, and does not interfere with anything.

I'll wire mine and take a picture of it. 

[MCRider]

A quick google search will bring up many different attempts.  But, this would be my suggested way...

not the clip though.

The way we did it, the clip was installed. Wrap the wire around the thin waist of the sideplate. Then twist it taught. Leave the pig tail stickin up or down. That way you have the clip in its original position and the wire just adds security. It is isolated from the sprocket as it is in the space betwen the two inside links.

I would recommendthis even for street bikes.

Like this:
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=227506

[Tintop]

A quick google search will bring up many different attempts.  But, this would be my suggested way...

not the clip though.

The way we did it, the clip was installed. Wrap the wire around the thin waist of the sideplate. Then twist it taught. Leave the pig tail stickin up or down. That way you have the clip in its original position and the wire just adds security. It is isolated from the sprocket as it is in the space betwen the two inside links.

I would recommendthis even for street bikes.

Like this:
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=227506

Great pic MCR, that is the correct way to do it, and is mandatory if you want to pass race tech inspection around here.  Also highly reccomended as you mentioned for the street as well.

[MCRider]

Thx Tintop. Here's mine. I was cold and shivering so the coil didn't wind up as nice as i would like.


The thickness of the inside link sideplates is enough to create a pocket the wire lives in. Add to that the thickness of the ORings and no way does it touch the sprocket or anything else. Its just along for the ride.

[Magpie]

Started it after a rebuild. 
It's ALIVE!

[cben750f0]

@ magpie

AAAAAAAAAAAAAW YEAH!!!!!  gratz M8, that feeling of the unknown before you hit the starter, and the elation of vitory well met, to hear it run..... awesome Mate!!!!

me i put 2 new perelli port deamons on the F0.... and am wondering why i left the tire change so long....these things are awesome, though will need new foot pegs at this rate!!!...lol

peace

[wardenerd]

cranked them for their weekly short run.  I try to crsnk snd run them up to temperstur once week when it is cold.

[:c:]

Started her after the rebuild and found out a kink in the line is stopping fuel but just as well as the bowl o ring format he kit isn't thick enough

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

SUCCESS!! Got the top end back together. Head torqued to 22 ftlb with the HD studs in 3 lb increments. Cometic MLS head gasket and Cometic steel base gasket. I didn't see a torque figure for the two 6mm flange bolts so I went with 12 ftlb. I did the same for 3 of the 4 "special" screws/bolts that occupy the center holes in the head. The 4th I couldn't get my socket around so I used a no 3 Phillips screw driver, a ball peen hammer with a little hammering while twisting until all 4 felt the same. Don't have a long bit for my impact driver plus I didn't want to strip any threads. I did these after torqueing the studs.  Going to stop for the week and order a few more bits and pieces like the o-rings for the oil orifices while they are soaking in acetone and some more new shiny bolts for the cam area, etc. Just can't bring myself to reuse the old stuff even if it can't be seen. Need to insure that I have "new" strength in an expensive rebuilt HP 900 engine. I have a frame kit so I plan on re-torqueing after it gets a few miles. Next week - cam (provided the new shineys show up in time).

 

[WhyNot2]

Awwwwwwwww.....yes 70 degree weather, beautiful for riding...................Rode to work, 40 degree................still warm.

Will be in the 70s for the rest of the week.

[scottly]

SUCCESS!!

It's about time you got back to work! 

[d9canada]

I'm waiting for O-rings for the carbs, so I pulled out the best of my 550Ks and blew away the pine needles and cobwebs.  Fixed some damaged wiring and began cleaning all the connections and putting them back together with a little dielectric grease.  With a little luck she'll fire up before Xmas!

[maduncle]

Totally flattened the battery.

For those who need to know how to do this, simply follow these steps:

1/. Go out and start your bike to make sure it is running well before you plan to go out some hours later.

2/. Fail to turn off the ignition (the reason this matters on my bike is that I have a keyless bike with a remote alarm system and the keyless ignition is activated by one switch).

3/. Now here is the hard part - spend the rest of the time before planning to go out wondering what that annoying beeping noise is coming from outside somewhere, and totally fail to register that it is in fact your alarm low battery warning alert.

4/. Final step - go out to start your bike for an evening out and get absolutely nothing from it when you press the starter, not even a dash light.

See - so easy, even a fool like me can do it.

(The battery is on charge, 6.5 volts at the moment and slowly climbing...)

[steam-powered man]

got my stock-sized 90/90-19 spitfire in from jake wilson the other day, so today i traded my brand new fatty (110/90-19) front tire for $40 plus a HD tube, rim strip, mount and spin balance at my local shop.  broke even, and looks great too. 

removed the fender stays and fork brace, then marked out how i'm gonna chop the front fender.  chopping tomorrow. 

[ekpent]

Well bought a few 750's a few weeks back and have dug into some carbs.Found one on a rack,its a #1 so easy to get back to if needed, that I had to go a little Ghetto on.As pictured it has a major,what could be a death knell crack.Somebody went to hard on the installation 
   Well grab the 45 and lets go for a ride  Prepped up the broken area real well,sandpaper etc.,cleaned all the threads on the emulsifier tube and carefully threaded her in to its maximum depth-OOOHH,   Don't split her up worse now.
    Trimmed down the 45 ACP brass that I picked up after my deed and proceeded to grind ,file and fit as needed,
   Filled the crack and also coated the outside of my intended target as well as the inside of my new custom and prepped brass buddy from the ride with a secret ingredient.
   With a firm grip and a gentle twist the deed was done and the cast had been completed and the seal had been made.
  Only the future will tell if what was done today shall last.
  Reports in 6 Months---        Eric

[70CB750]

them 45s can fix quite a lot of fu$%ed up situations. 

[ekpent]

them 45s can fix quite a lot of fu$%ed up situations. 

Never leave home without it --        

[Terry in Australia]

Best of luck Eric, I've seen the same damage in CB750 carbs, as long as there's no gap left in the crack, there shouldn't be any mixture issues. My Grandfather bought a Panther sloper during the Great Depression that went fine, but blew a little smoke, so decided that he'd pull it apart and fix it, only to find that it had a wooden piston with a tin cap! Cheers, Terry.

[maduncle]

Good day today.

I got the 750 back on the road with a freshly charged battery, rode over to see 'dave the welder' who has welded four new fins onto my CB450 head and cleaned them up so you can't tell old from new (for 60 bucks!) and then I dropped it off at the blaster/polishers.

All going well I will have freshly cleaned and polished CB450 engine cases, jugs and head - and a stripped back CB450 frame ready to work on in late January.

[dave500]

Well bought a few 750's a few weeks back and have dug into some carbs.Found one on a rack,its a #1 so easy to get back to if needed, that I had to go a little Ghetto on.As pictured it has a major,what could be a death knell crack.Somebody went to hard on the installation 
   Well grab the 45 and lets go for a ride  Prepped up the broken area real well,sandpaper etc.,cleaned all the threads on the emulsifier tube and carefully threaded her in to its maximum depth-OOOHH,   Don't split her up worse now.
    Trimmed down the 45 ACP brass that I picked up after my deed and proceeded to grind ,file and fit as needed,
   Filled the crack and also coated the outside of my intended target as well as the inside of my new custom and prepped brass buddy from the ride with a secret ingredient.
   With a firm grip and a gentle twist the deed was done and the cast had been completed and the seal had been made.
  Only the future will tell if what was done today shall last.
  Reports in 6 Months---        Eric

im applying for the hard to get here pistol license so i can fix carbs!

[Terry in Australia]

Nah, you don't need a pistol Dave, I've found that in extreme cases, most troublesome Honda carbs respond very well to shotty's. PULL!

[Picasoo]

...all ready for sunday assembly 

[70CB750]

Looking good!