Topic: What did you do to your bike today ?

[cbfivefitty]

gave it it's first ride in 20 years. Still got a ways to go in my build but took a huge step today

[evanphi]

Bit of puttering today...

Made some tubes for the clear tube method of checking float height. I have some new bowl drain screws coming in the mail (along with some other things!), so the two slot-most-hacked-up ones got re-purposed! Cut the heads off, then spread the end of a 1/8" ID vinyl tube to fit over the end with the holes in it using a pair of needle-nose pliers. Then added a bit of shrink tubing over it all just to be safe and have something for the threads to seal against when they get screwed into the bowls. Made two.





Exhaust needs a touch-up coat of VHT flat black exhaust paint... and I'm actually going to let it cure this time before heat-cycling it!

So I degreased it all, and rinsed with cold water.



Now it hangs in front of the heating vent for the night.



Tomorrow I will attack it (lightly) with a wire brush to remove any flaking black paint, and possibly do the touch-ups.


I've gathered my tools for doing the frame cut to dig in to the top-end... too bad we still have buttloads of snow!

[Ravie]

Started getting a some of parts in for the build...New Dunlop K70's, intake boots, tank rubbers, spokes, etc...

Got the spokes painted last night as well as my front hub. This evening I cleaned and painted the top case half with Engine Enamel. Cut and wired the old fuse harness into a new blade style fuse box I got at O Reilly that has a little plastic cover on it.. Gotta figure out how I'm gonna mount it now.

Oh! Oh!  And I ordered and picked up the Kona Coffee Metallic paint for the tank and side covers and dropped them off at my friends place. Can't wait to see the finished product. I LOVE that color.

Just getting as much little stuff done as I can before the rest of my parts come in this week from 4into1 and DCC. Also have a few things coming from overseas (both near AND far...) like my new seat, swingarm bushings...

Freakin pumped to be getting this thing back together!

[MoMo]

Finally, a warm(er) day with an afternoon temp of -4C up here in the great white north! In my unheated detached garage I was able to remove the wheels from my bike without freezing my fingers off. The wheels need new rubber after last summer's 'round the US solo retirement trip.

I will want the shop to straighten the rear wheel as well. (Spokes) Do they need the rear axel?

No, they should not need the axle.  You can buy an inexpensive stand from Harbor freight and do it yourself

[AlekStooge]

Today I cut out sheet panels for the seat

[crantonr]

Put the carb rack back in my 550k after rebuilding with new jets and re-setting float heights etc. Found Vaseline to be a good tip on getting the boots to slip back on easily and just required some grunt to get the rack back in. Turned on the fuel and major overflow problem from carbs 3&4. Scratched my head for a bit and made a cup of tea (We do that in the UK) and kicked it over a couple of times and turned the fuel back on and if by magic no leak  Ran her up and it is sounding good and firing on all four which was the reason for the original strip. Will sync the throttles tomorrow and then take her for a run.

[ekpent]

Put the carb rack back in my 550k after rebuilding with new jets and re-setting float heights etc. Found Vaseline to be a good tip on getting the boots to slip back on easily and just required some grunt to get the rack back in. Turned on the fuel and major overflow problem from carbs 3&4. Scratched my head for a bit and made a cup of tea (We do that in the UK) and kicked it over a couple of times and turned the fuel back on and if by magic no leak  Ran her up and it is sounding good and firing on all four which was the reason for the original strip. Will sync the throttles tomorrow and then take her for a run.

Actually sometimes there can be a little drama on a first bowl fill after work till things settle in, or a little tap here and there. Been there.

[evanphi]

Sorted out what gaskets and and O-rings I need to dig in to my top-end. I ordered a whole engine gasket kit, so I had to measure the orings and see which ones I needed... Hondaman's book was helpful in figuring out what I needed: two on top of the cylinders, along with the stud rubbers (holes in gasket are big enough!), and four little orings for the metering jets on top of the head. I got 6 pucks in the gasket set, and I also ordered four more. So I will measure their pocket's depth when I have the towers off, and see which pucks are closest to 0.030" more than that value (according to Hondaman here. Also going to change out the orings for the tappet covers and breather cover. Set aside the head gasket and valve cover gasket too, as well as four new exhaust gaskets.

Getting organized for this job is half the fun!

I'm going to get everything taken apart, and bring the head and valve cover to be cleaned. Going to clean the rest of the engine once everything is put back together and the weather warms up. No sense in everything getting wet when it is always below freezing!

One other thing I plan to do... remove the tach drive gear from underneath the valve cover. I am not running the stock tach on this bike (electronic tach weeee). I have a plug all made up and ready to go in, and hopefully removing the driver will reduce any tendency for that spot to leak oil. I have an Oring on the plug anyway, but just want to be sure!

[MCRider]

Sorted out what gaskets and and O-rings I need to dig in to my top-end. I ordered a whole engine gasket kit, so I had to measure the orings and see which ones I needed... Hondaman's book was helpful in figuring out what I needed: two on top of the cylinders, along with the stud rubbers (holes in gasket are big enough!), and four little orings for the metering jets on top of the head. I got 6 pucks in the gasket set, and I also ordered four more. So I will measure their pocket's depth when I have the towers off, and see which pucks are closest to 0.030" more than that value (according to Hondaman here. Also going to change out the orings for the tappet covers and breather cover. Set aside the head gasket and valve cover gasket too, as well as four new exhaust gaskets.

Getting organized for this job is half the fun!

I'm going to get everything taken apart, and bring the head and valve cover to be cleaned. Going to clean the rest of the engine once everything is put back together and the weather warms up. No sense in everything getting wet when it is always below freezing!

One other thing I plan to do... remove the tach drive gear from underneath the valve cover. I am not running the stock tach on this bike (electronic tach weeee). I have a plug all made up and ready to go in, and hopefully removing the driver will reduce any tendency for that spot to leak oil. I have an Oring on the plug anyway, but just want to be sure!

No need to remove the drive, actually a bad idea IMO. The driver is in an oil seal already. Take it out you open the hole in the seal and oil will come out. The tach cable does not seal anything other than keeping a bit of water and dirt out, and not even completely at that.

The driver will just spin and the oil stays in the case. Just pop a plug in the hole that's held in by the cable screw, to look good and finished and keep water and dirt out.

Many places make plugs for that hole purpose.

[evanphi]

Sorted out what gaskets and and O-rings I need to dig in to my top-end. I ordered a whole engine gasket kit, so I had to measure the orings and see which ones I needed... Hondaman's book was helpful in figuring out what I needed: two on top of the cylinders, along with the stud rubbers (holes in gasket are big enough!), and four little orings for the metering jets on top of the head. I got 6 pucks in the gasket set, and I also ordered four more. So I will measure their pocket's depth when I have the towers off, and see which pucks are closest to 0.030" more than that value (according to Hondaman here. Also going to change out the orings for the tappet covers and breather cover. Set aside the head gasket and valve cover gasket too, as well as four new exhaust gaskets.

Getting organized for this job is half the fun!

I'm going to get everything taken apart, and bring the head and valve cover to be cleaned. Going to clean the rest of the engine once everything is put back together and the weather warms up. No sense in everything getting wet when it is always below freezing!

One other thing I plan to do... remove the tach drive gear from underneath the valve cover. I am not running the stock tach on this bike (electronic tach weeee). I have a plug all made up and ready to go in, and hopefully removing the driver will reduce any tendency for that spot to leak oil. I have an Oring on the plug anyway, but just want to be sure!

No need to remove the drive, actually a bad idea IMO. The driver is in an oil seal already. Take it out you open the hole in the seal and oil will come out. The tach cable does not seal anything other than keeping a bit of water and dirt out, and not even completely at that.

The driver will just spin and the oil stays in the case. Just pop a plug in the hole that's held in by the cable screw, to look good and finished and keep water and dirt out.

Many places make plugs for that hole purpose.

I made a plug out of an old tach cable, actually. Made a little channel for an O-ring for extra snug fit. Is there anything in terms of load balancing that should prevent me from taking the tach drive out?

[strynboen]

got 2 low kost exhosts systems for 200 danish kr..they fit honda cd and ss 50. made in asia/china. are dovn side systems..but still..like the preis..so got 2 set..
(got them from protuna in germany..danish low preis company)

[MCRider]

"I made a plug out of an old tach cable, actually. Made a little channel for an O-ring for extra snug fit. Is there anything in terms of load balancing that should prevent me from taking the tach drive out? "

Nothing prevents removal of the drive. It's held in by a single bolt, pulls right out, gear is affixed to shaft. If your goal is to minimize the chance of oil getting out, removing the drive is not the way. IMO

Google "CB750 tach drive plug" for ideas. This bridge has been crossed many times before.

[CB500_k2]

The snow was 4 feet tall in either side of the driveway.  I took a look at my CB500 and CB400F and confirmed they remained in suspended animation.  I really envy those who have temperatures above 32 degrees F.  Our time will come.

[mcswny]

The snow was 4 feet tall in either side of the driveway.  I took a look at my CB500 and CB400F and confirmed they remained in suspended animation.  I really envy those who have temperatures above 32 degrees F.  Our time will come.

Where you living? It's supposed to be 40 in nyc on Sunday! Hallelujah! We got 5 or so inches today but hopefully it will be dry enough to get around for a little putt putt.

[Ace]

Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this.... 

[flybox1]

Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this.... 

bummer.
pucks or head gasket?

[flybox1]

Cleaning case mating surfaces of threebond.  Tedious, but necessary.
A box of cotton swabs and dish of acetone was the preferred method.

[evanphi]

Cleaning case mating surfaces of threebond.  Tedious, but necessary.
A box of cotton swabs and dish of acetone was the preferred method.

I love the smell of acetone in the morning! 

Great for cleaning old finish off wooden gunstocks.

[strynboen]

have re vindet the coil for ignision..it is spec for 180-250 ohm...but vas dovn to 140 ohm...

cut the old copper aut..and isolated and put nev viring on to 240 ohm..gave it bending and lauQer..and a auer in the oven..

so hope the old yamaha smoker dt 125 mk-1 ,runs after this...

[bjbuchanan]

Sorted out what gaskets and and O-rings I need to dig in to my top-end. I ordered a whole engine gasket kit, so I had to measure the orings and see which ones I needed... Hondaman's book was helpful in figuring out what I needed: two on top of the cylinders, along with the stud rubbers (holes in gasket are big enough!), and four little orings for the metering jets on top of the head. I got 6 pucks in the gasket set, and I also ordered four more. So I will measure their pocket's depth when I have the towers off, and see which pucks are closest to 0.030" more than that value (according to Hondaman here. Also going to change out the orings for the tappet covers and breather cover. Set aside the head gasket and valve cover gasket too, as well as four new exhaust gaskets.

Getting organized for this job is half the fun!

I'm going to get everything taken apart, and bring the head and valve cover to be cleaned. Going to clean the rest of the engine once everything is put back together and the weather warms up. No sense in everything getting wet when it is always below freezing!

One other thing I plan to do... remove the tach drive gear from underneath the valve cover. I am not running the stock tach on this bike (electronic tach weeee). I have a plug all made up and ready to go in, and hopefully removing the driver will reduce any tendency for that spot to leak oil. I have an Oring on the plug anyway, but just want to be sure!

No need to remove the drive, actually a bad idea IMO. The driver is in an oil seal already. Take it out you open the hole in the seal and oil will come out. The tach cable does not seal anything other than keeping a bit of water and dirt out, and not even completely at that.

The driver will just spin and the oil stays in the case. Just pop a plug in the hole that's held in by the cable screw, to look good and finished and keep water and dirt out.

Many places make plugs for that hole purpose.

I made a plug out of an old tach cable, actually. Made a little channel for an O-ring for extra snug fit. Is there anything in terms of load balancing that should prevent me from taking the tach drive out?

It's not heavy enough with enough weight from center mass to worry about balancing, just run it bud

[Ace]

Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this.... 

bummer.
pucks or head gasket?

Neither, out the exhaust port of #1 and #2. Pulled it all apart none the less. Bit of fuel in the air box, unburnt fuel in #1 and #2. All combustion chambers wet with #1 the worst. Plugs for #2/3/4 are fine, #1 wet and oily. Oil between tops of all the jugs. I'm thinking rings but also oil maybe coming up from between the sleeve and the barrels? I put the rubber orings in and some sealant, mustn't have worked....now have to work out what went wrong.

[DaveBarbier]

Went for a ride, got home, turned the bike off and noticed this.... 

bummer.
pucks or head gasket?

Neither, out the exhaust port of #1 and #2. Pulled it all apart none the less. Bit of fuel in the air box, unburnt fuel in #1 and #2. All combustion chambers wet with #1 the worst. Plugs for #2/3/4 are fine, #1 wet and oily. Oil between tops of all the jugs. I'm thinking rings but also oil maybe coming up from between the sleeve and the barrels? I put the rubber orings in and some sealant, mustn't have worked....now have to work out what went wrong.

Is there a lot of pressure to force oil between the sleeves and barrels? I haven't heard of anyone using sealant there before. I just used the orings from the gasket set and so far things are good on my 550.  Valve stem/guide seals?


---
1978 Honda CB550K

[PeWe]

Mikuni carb job. Mikuni TMR32 replace Mikuni VM29.
New jetting adventure, hopefully a short one this year
Both std throttle cables mounted. Will hopefully fit the throttle mechanism on handlebar when there is much to adjust with. Had to add an extra nut for retract (push cable) adjuster. Made a cut thru the nut for wire so it could enter.

Mains 150, probably for velocity stacks. I replaced them with 135. I hope I guess correct when I'll use pods.
I have some main jets since my old VM29's have same model. 110-145, in 2.5 steps. Pilots however, different which is bad when I have a looong series to VM29 model.

TMR Pilots have 27.5. If mains 150 is for stacks, pilots might be too, going smaller
I've ordered 25 and 22.5. I'll use 25 first time. I hope to avoid multiple rejettings as for my impossible VM29's.
All float bowls have to be removed at the same time  when they are connected with a hose, I guess for acc pump.

I hope float levels are correctly adjusted when new. My old clear tube tool for VM29 fits if I need to check.
Vaccum outlets tricky placed with small rubber caps. Fiddle with those is to beg for leaks I suppose.  I'll test with my Gunson carb balancer that is hand held on the filter side, one by one. I'll might change my mind later on.

Carbs will go on when I have got the smaller pilots.

Edit:
Good jetting:
Pilot 32.5
Fuel screw 1 1/2 + 1/8 turn out
Needles 2:6 from top (too rich before)
Main 135
Plugs Denso XS24ES-U
Fuel Shell V-Power

[750cafe]

Peewee, where did you get those carbs? I have never seen that model before myself and find them very interesting.
I believe that you are on the right track with the jetting changes vesus out of the box but what are the spec's on your engine and
what exhaust system are you going to be running? [camshaft change(s)? Engine size? Compression ratio?]


Eric

[eigenvector]

Uuuuhhhh!  Spiders!

I put back all the pieces to the bike in preparation for taking it out on it's first official ride since the rebuild.
Got the seat out from where I stashed it and you should have seen the nest of evil that I uncovered from under the toolkit cover.  I'm still getting the shivers from it.

Almost afraid to sit on that thing now - like the foam inside has been replaced by little baby spiders or something.