Topic: What did you do to your bike today ?

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Good to see your 'recovery' went well  and you're back at it. 

[seaweb11]

Notice the Poster Jerry?  and the bent sign.....

[MoMo]

Pulled the 1966 Suzuki S32 out of the shed(been there since November), installed battery, turn on petcock and key on, kick  bike over once and wingdingding .  Nothing like the smell of Blendzall in the morning...Larry

[70CB750]

Pulled the 1966 Suzuki S32 out of the shed(been there since November), installed battery, turn on petcock and key on, kick  bike over once and wingdingding .  Nothing like the smell of Blendzall in the morning...Larry

Nice !

[InAquaVeritas]

Holy crap the head is pretty !! ^^ 

Thanks! I'm super happy with it! Two covers need paint still, the rest will be picked up this week.

I'm amazed by your collection! How long did it take you to build up something like that?


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[OT7]

First short ride . 1976 CB550F started right up. Third year on AGM battery.

[Jerry E.]

Finally started my K3 today, first time on new rebuild. It's a ported 836 motor, with a Carpy"Yoshi" exhaust, and a mild megacycle cam. Sounds really good, and seems to run fine. Was nervous starting it for first time, as this is my 1st motorcycle engine rebuild, but all appears to be working properly. Couldn't have done it without this forum.

[MoMo]

Finally started my K3 today, first time on new rebuild. It's a ported 836 motor, with a Carpy"Yoshi" exhaust, and a mild megacycle cam. Sounds really good, and seems to run fine. nervous starting it for first time, as this is my 1st motorcycle engine rebuild, but all appears to be working properly. Couldn't have done it without this forum.

good feeling isn't it?  Must have put a big smile on your face

[evanphi]

Finally got everything all buttoned up!
 
The blank canvas...


Permatex FormAGasket 2 goes in the recesses, then the 0.030" shims.


Then the pucks had a bit more Permatex put on their edges, and sat down into the recesses. Pressed them down as much as I could to force out any excess, then cleaned up.


Cam towers in place, before timing the cam... Thanks again, Rafi! Definitely the best way to get the cam chain, sprocket, and shaft in place can be seen in Dean's video...

Put the bearing caps on after timing the cam. Oil goes into those little recessed holes as you put it together! At this point, after releasing the cam chain tensioner, I decided to use the kickstarter to make sure I had oil coming up to the top end. YEP! Sure do! Took about 30-40 kicks to see it spurt out of those little holes. Having the spark plugs out really helped!



Everything all in place now, before setting valve clearances. I left out the 5mm rocker shaft retaining bolts, as recommended by HondaMan. I did go through and check to make sure each shaft's oil groove was visible with side to side motion of the shaft when the bolts are in place. Only one had to be widened, thankfully... #2 EX.


Valve clearances were set according to the book. 0.002-0.003 for intake, and 0.003-0.004 for exhaust. Setting valves, for those who have never done it before (LIKE ME!) is pretty straight forward. What I did was go for the smaller of the two numbers. Tighten the adjuster down LIGHTLY onto the smaller feeler gauge. It should slide in that space with some friction, but not stick. Tighten the locking nut. Check once again... the smaller one used to set the spacing should slide back in with some friction, but the larger should not go at all (or maybe with a good pull through).


After a restless night...


Upon putting the valve cover on, I forgot that I had not replaced these two screws, and they were all stripped. I managed to get them to approximately (by feel) 90 in-lbs using vise grips. Going to get some socket head M6x80mm bolts on Monday and take that breather cover off again.


And here it is, all buttoned up. Frame section put back in, too. I'm going to swap the front two frame clamps so the bolts are facing out on the bottom, rather than angled like this because of the coils.



Everything went back together after this... carbs, airbox, etc... She fired right up! No problemo! I'll post more pics, obviously, once I get those other screws replaced in the breather box. Thankfully not much has to come back apart to do those screws. It was nice to hear Rhonda sing again!

Got those two screws replaced...

Before:


After (M6x80mm 12.9 grade steel socket head):



Then I put it all back together! She starts, but it is on high grade gas and too much MMO in the tank. Going to go get some more fuel tonight, and then properly dial in the air screws. Things seem a bit rich!




 Things I noticed, putting the carbs on and off for what seems like the 100th time...

1. Lubricate the rubber with something. I used saliva. Cheap, and always available.
2. The airbox rubbers seem to have a long side and a short side of what sticks out of the box. Have the LONG side on top. Now, when you rock the airbox upper half upwards to install the boots, the rubber will go right to the carb body on the top AND the bottom.
3. Make sure the carb bowls are level with the engine case (use the starter motor cover as a guide). This can be accomplished by rotating the rubber boots AWAY from the center to bring the bowls DOWN. Turn TO the middle to bring them UP. Having them level makes installing the airbox boots and holding bolts much easier, too, as you don't have to fight to push the airbox top downwards.

[Eydugstr]

Installed an oil pressure gauge from cycle-X and rode it...

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Fixed that which was not broken. 

Starter motor in my GL1100 that is.  It cranked OK, but I knew she could do better.  Bought new brushes, but the ones inside have plenty of life so didn't change them.  Cleaned out the carbon and the old grease and shined up the armature.  Lubed 'er up and reinstalled.  Cranks a lot faster now!

[MoMo]

Rode the Plastic Fantastic Scooter on Steroids, aka Red Maggot, aka THE GOLF CART, aka a Honda Pacific Coast.   First Honda that has ever left me stranded, well almost.............the battery that I had just replaced two weeks ago went dead.  I was 20 miles or so from home but was fortunate to have a kind stranger help me bump start the red load.  Got home, checked charging(which I neglected to do after replacing the old, worn out battery )  and found the rectumfinder to be defective. So I went inside and ordered one then walked back to the shed and lo and behold there is the rectifier I need sitting on the top frame of a basket case 2000 CB250 Nighthawk I bought because it had a 400 four tank on it.  Installed the rectumfinder and back on the road.  Probably keep the one I ordered for a spare...Larry

[Tetter]

Rode 60 miles and checked the sparkplugs




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[InAquaVeritas]

Picked up my seat today and finally got to see it with the new paint! Super stoked!
Made from an old waterproof Swiss army bag. Short straps for smalls and longer ones for helmet/bag.

I made the seat so it can be removed, will post pics when I put the finishing touches on it. Can't wait to finish this project!






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[Stev-o]

That looks cool but isnt the helmet for your head?!

[InAquaVeritas]

That looks cool but isnt the helmet for your head?!

Thanks!

Hahaha! Does it? It all makes so much sense now!

It's for a passenger, it's going to have pegs. This way I can bring a helmet easily and it also holds a bag.


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[Greggo]

Put a clutch in the sandcast.

[Jerry E.]

Finally started my K3 today, first time on new rebuild. It's a ported 836 motor, with a Carpy"Yoshi" exhaust, and a mild megacycle cam. Sounds really good, and seems to run fine. nervous starting it for first time, as this is my 1st motorcycle engine rebuild, but all appears to be working properly. Couldn't have done it without this forum.

good feeling isn't it?  Must have put a big smile on your face

definately put a smile on my face.

[evanphi]

Very cool looking seat!

[evanphi]

From my build thread...

Lube throttle and clutch cables (using some gun oil)
I use a concoction called Ed's Red for my rifles. You can make a compatible oil with 1 part ATF and 1 part kerosene. This is what I used to lube my cables. I also lubed the carb linkage forks with dielectic grease. The snap-back is much better now!


Put the holey air screws back in the carbs, and set to 1 turn
We'll see if this makes a big difference...

Adjust chain slack
1" in the center. Lined up the marks on both sides of the adjusters. Easy peasy!

Adjust tire pressure to 38 front, 40 rear.
Pretty self-explanatory.

Add "silent memo" drain holes (1/8" holes at lower front engine mounts)
Ta-da! No water came out! I'll add some paint to those holes today.


Also took off the points plate and checked the runout on the advancer shaft. It was 0.030" off center (hence the 2/3 timing jitter), but I got it down to about 0.002-0.003.

What year is my advancer from? I lubed all the important spots on here, too.



Didn't get for a ride because it was after dark, and foggy. But after adding 9L of fresh gas, she started right up, just like last year when in perfect tune! I'll take Rhonda for a ride to warm up today after filing points and setting gap, then do the timing and a vac sync on a warm engine. She's ready to rock!

[DaveBarbier]

Also took off the points plate and checked the runout on the advancer shaft. It was 0.030" off center (hence the 2/3 timing jitter), but I got it down to about 0.002-0.003.

Looks like the dial gauge is on the threads, no? Might not be the best place to check for runout.


---
1978 Honda CB550K

[evanphi]

Also took off the points plate and checked the runout on the advancer shaft. It was 0.030" off center (hence the 2/3 timing jitter), but I got it down to about 0.002-0.003.

Looks like the dial gauge is on the threads, no? Might not be the best place to check for runout.


---
1978 Honda CB550K

 I had it on the smooth part before. I just did the quick video to demonstrate.

[DaveBarbier]

Also took off the points plate and checked the runout on the advancer shaft. It was 0.030" off center (hence the 2/3 timing jitter), but I got it down to about 0.002-0.003.

Looks like the dial gauge is on the threads, no? Might not be the best place to check for runout.


---
1978 Honda CB550K

 I had it on the smooth part before. I just did the quick video to demonstrate.

Ah, nice. Just checking! Glad you did because it reminded me that this should be on my list of things to do.


---
1978 Honda CB550K

[evanphi]

Also took off the points plate and checked the runout on the advancer shaft. It was 0.030" off center (hence the 2/3 timing jitter), but I got it down to about 0.002-0.003.

Looks like the dial gauge is on the threads, no? Might not be the best place to check for runout.


---
1978 Honda CB550K

 I had it on the smooth part before. I just did the quick video to demonstrate.

Ah, nice. Just checking! Glad you did because it reminded me that this should be on my list of things to do.


---
1978 Honda CB550K

I'm glad I did it. NO MORE JITTER!!! wooooo

[evanphi]

Here she is. Rhonda's glamour shot for 2015!

Filed and set gap on points. Took her for a spin. Got home, set idle to 1000RPM. Did dynamic timing of points, then a vacuum sync. Ready to show off now.

Much better power response with the needle raised a notch. Also easier starting, it seems. Looking forward to riding this year.