Well I did the static timing per the install sheet and manual instructions(light on at the F mark and on the outside advance mark with the rotor turned clockwise, all good, triple checked both coils/sides),unfortunately I don't have a timing light atm... as for the idle circuit, these are the dreaded 42b Keihin carbs with the pressed in slow jets.
I can't find someone who has them in stock atm, in order to replace them for the set-up of pods/kerker/quiet cone I have...I drilled the existing #40's and each size bigger got a positive result in starting / idle(would not idle at all with stock jet size)... Just don't want to go too far until I have replacements in hand, holes were .043" stock and are now .057"( and I've read all the posts about drilling vs boring etc... this is just to get the size right first time out I hope!!) At 1.5 turns out on the pilot jet, bike has to warm up in order to idle and I have to turn the idle screw up to get a good idle speed, then I have to keep lowering it until I finally get the fully warmed speed set and it's stable as long as i'm riding, if it cools fully, start all over. Today after a short ride I turned the pilots out(richer) starting from#2 to 3 turns and the idle went up so I matched ,1,3,4.. but I found have 2 dripping oil leaks that just started that I need to remedy, hence...
I need a little info If you know, I've put about 400 miles on since r and r ing the top end, replacing all gaskets / o-rings/ seals etc.. Do you know if it's possible to remove the valve cover and re-torque the head while in the stock frame? (my guess is no...) would like to stop the leaks hittinf the exhaust before I cover it in oil and suffocate from the smoke/fumes