Terry and Jerry: Long a proponent of the hoseclamp method. I'll lend some tips. (This is mostly for those of us who have machined the taper off the bottom of the cylinder for our overbores. Stock cylinders with tapers can drop on without clamps.)
Get clamps as close to the diameter of the piston as possible. So you're dealing with the least amount of clamp as possible and the clamp is as round as possible. (These are nice details, but not necessary.)
Stage the end gaps at 120deg. Put the hose clamp on the the buckle is not over an end gap. The buckle is the weak link of this method. I draw the clamp closed slowly watching that the rings close into their grooves and nothing is binding or hanging up. Once the clamp is gently closed, back it off just a skosh so it will turn on the top of the piston, held in place with ring pressure.
You can prop the 2-3 pistons up to do them first or the 1-4 or try them all at once. Some properly sized sticks of wood under the piston skirts helps. Oil the lower ends of the cylinders, oil the clamps at the ring levels. As the cylinders drop down they push the clamps down and out of the way as the rings enter the cylinders. You may have to adjust the clamp tension, and you need to watch that all of the ring gets in the cylinder. If the cylinder cocks, a portion of the ring may emerge and you push that back in with a fingertip, or screwdriver blade.
Depending on your manual dexterity, time of day, position of the sun, etc. this sometimes happens amazingly easy, and sometimes it puts up a fight.
