Author Topic: con rod polishing  (Read 2344 times)

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Offline bikehenge

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con rod polishing
« on: November 13, 2009, 01:19:12 pm »
Hi all,
Polishing con rods to reduce "stress risers" that could lead to cracks is not uncommon in automobile engine rebuilds.  Apparently the typical process involves a die grinder and 40 grit sandpaper.  Has anyone done this for SOHC4 rods? 

My greatest fear is that the work could distort the rods.  Any "conventional wisdom" concerns related to doing this to SOHC4 rods? 

thanks,
Rob


Offline mlinder

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2009, 01:33:27 pm »
I don't think polishing will do very much unless the surface is hardened by shotpeening prior. The shotpeening is far more beneficial than the polishing part.
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Offline MRieck

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2009, 08:12:14 pm »
I don't think polishing will do very much unless the surface is hardened by shotpeening prior. The shotpeening is far more beneficial than the polishing part.
Mark....I actually polish the beams then shot peen them. It works well. I agree that the shot peening is the most important part.
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Offline Zaipai

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2009, 08:20:53 pm »
Dumb question coming.. what is shotpeening?
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Offline Don R

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #4 on: November 13, 2009, 09:23:48 pm »
It's kinda like sandblasting but with bigger media. Metal balls I believe.
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Offline BLUE71TURBO

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2009, 12:30:26 am »
Exactly. Some what like shot gun shot.
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Offline mystic_1

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2009, 04:44:46 am »
Wikipedia says:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peening

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Offline bikehenge

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2009, 06:07:56 am »
Hi Mike,
Does this process cause any distortion that needs to be corrected by additional machining?
Also, when you say "beams" do you mean that you do not work the entire rod?

Thanks,
Rob

I don't think polishing will do very much unless the surface is hardened by shotpeening prior. The shotpeening is far more beneficial than the polishing part.
Mark....I actually polish the beams then shot peen them. It works well. I agree that the shot peening is the most important part.

Offline mlinder

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2009, 08:15:35 am »
If Mike says polish first, you should prolly polish first.

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Offline Zaipai

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2009, 05:35:44 pm »
Ah..I see.. What did we ever do with out wikipedia? Thanks for the info..
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Offline Nikkisixx

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #10 on: November 14, 2009, 06:29:27 pm »
Hi Mike,
Does this process cause any distortion that needs to be corrected by additional machining?
Also, when you say "beams" do you mean that you do not work the entire rod?

Thanks,
Rob

Hey Rob,
I'm not Mike but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn Express...  ;)

Smoothing the rod removes a few grams and allows the rod to shed oil quicker, which reduces reciprocating and rotating mass. It also reduces small inclusions that can lead to failure.  When polishing, it makes sense to smooth out most of the rod, but focus is placed on the beam since this is where most failures seem to occur.  Polishing does leave small scratches that are then further reduced by shot peening, so this is done after polishing. When polishing one should stay away from machined surfaces (the flats on the side of the rod, flats for the nuts, the journals, the hole for the pin) and  if polishing is done to extremes (a bench grinder on the thin part at the top by the pin for example) it could weaken the rod.  As a matter of practice, rods should be balanced and reconditioned (the big end made round to size) as part of the process. 
 
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Offline bikehenge

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2009, 06:15:47 am »
Thanks all,
that is helpful information

Rob

Offline bucky katt

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Re: con rod polishing
« Reply #12 on: November 15, 2009, 11:57:18 pm »
the cycle exchange used to sell cb750f2 rods, shot peened, polished with some really large arp studs in them. ken swore theyre good for a street bike that doesnt live at 11,000.
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