Topic: primary chain and tensioner

[paddy paul]

where is the best place to get new primary chains and a new tensioner, price and quality that is? what brands are available?   Thanks 

[mick7504]

Cyclex or Dynoman. Genuine Honda stuff.
I read somewhere that Classic Cycle City in the US are selling heavy duty primary chains.
Sounded like a good thing.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

ServiceHonda.com   ~20% off msrp genuine Honda parts

Just remember to order 1 for the primary chain and you get 1 set of 2 chains. Don't order 2 unless you want to give me one 

[mick7504]

Thanks Jerry
I forgot about that.

[nippon]

Hello,

our Classic Cycle City reinforced heavy duty primary chains for the CR750/CB750 are mainly designed for tuned race engines. In stock engines, you can use them of course, too but in fact you do not have to. The stock primary chains will do the job cheaper (not better). During the race season in Europe 2008 and 2009, we measurred a new stock RK chain in a 99 hp engine after 3 races. We measurred a sag of 71 mm ! Honda suggested to replace the chains when they have reached a sag of 69 mm. This means, after three races you have to split the cases in order to replace the worn
chains to avoid possible engine damages. Our chains (6grams lighter each) solved this and the not well working and expensive Hi-Vo conversion with an automatic crank, too. The HD chains saves the racers time and money.

nippon

[paddy paul]

 Thanks all

[krusty]

"you have to split the cases in order to replace the worn chains "
Can this be done without dismantling the top end? I would imagine that the timing chain would need slacking off by releasing the camshaft sprocket? I need to replace the chains in my CB750F1 and was looking for a short cut. Top end has already been done, rebore cam chain, tensioner, guides etc. The engine seemed to be in excellent mechanical condition so I didn't delve any deeper. Bike runs and shifts just fine but the primaries are really rattling. BTW carbs have been synched and it's not clutch rattle.

[Spanner 1]

Zero short-cut on replacing the cam chain, unfortunately.....are you sure the tensioner is working?... I think it's (very) possible to overtighten the tensioner bolt to where the bolt-end 'mashes' into the tensioner shaft and leaves a burr mark on the shaft. Next time you slack the bolt to allow the tensioner spring to draw the tensioner shoe in, the shaft wont slide as the bolt mark now jams it in it's tube. 2 bolts take the tensioner off for full operation check....just a thought, and maybe something we all should check on our bikes..!!

[krusty]

Short cut search was for primary chain replacement, not cam chain.

[Spanner 1]

Sorry , unclear from your post..top-end can stay not dismantled, cam chain dropped off sprocket SHOULD make enough slack to lift the points end of the crank, with #3 and 4 conrod caps taken off, working the primary chains off to the left...but I haven't done it, so please wait for a poster who has attempted it ..!

[krusty]

Many thanks, that's what I was hoping. I'll wait for confirmation.