Author Topic: 75F starter switch and wiring diagram questions (Read 3547 times)

Don R · « **on:** November 11, 2009, 07:19:49 PM »

It is a 75- 750F. I have searched and read the posts but didn't find solid info. Can I get a new Honda starter switch only or can I, if needed buy a complete control? I have temporarily wired the headlight and starter for now but I want to keep it original. I thought it might be like the older bikes where I could snag a horn button and switch it but no dice.
Also where to download a 75 wiring diagram? I have been using a 77 diagram with success so far.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 11, 2009, 09:49:27 PM »

Your starter switch has 3 wires. One, the Black is +12v when the ign. is 'on'. The Black feeds thru' the switch to a Purple/Red which runs to the headlight fuse and on to the headlight.( Button un-pressed ) When the start button is pressed, the Black disconnects from the P/R wire ( to disconnect the h/light while the starter motor is engaged ) and puts +12v to the Yellow/Red wire which goes to the starter solenoid to engage the starter motor, so a replacement switch would have to do the same functions....

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #2 on:** November 11, 2009, 10:30:44 PM »

No and NO. Once the plastic button housing cracks you're in deep. No replacement and Honda has seen fit to discontinue the right hand control. #$%*s! Come on Honda, you can do better than that. Last NOS control I saw I grabbed it as fast as I could. I was trying to save it for my restore but I had to go ahead and install it. An occasional control will pop up on EBay. Seen 2 in 3+ years maybe. I'm on EBay every night browsing for NOS 75 750F stuff. You may have to retrofit another control and splice some wires.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #3 on:** November 11, 2009, 11:27:44 PM »

The same problem just cropped up with my 76. No headlight or electric start. No power at the headlight fuse either. I can kick start the bike but still no headlight. I have not taken it apart yet but nothing is cracked or in bad shape. Hopefully repairable.

The wiring diagram that I downloaded from here is just about illegible so it is a bit difficult to trace out the wiring path. Yours is a bit better Jerry, thanks.

Hasenkopf · « **Reply #4 on:** November 11, 2009, 11:30:16 PM »

I seem to be in the same boat with the 76 550, three wires, but I have a two wire switch that works, stil trying to figure this out...

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #5 on:** November 11, 2009, 11:44:54 PM »

Hey Guys,

News Flash. I think I told you wrong! The right side apparently IS available. Retails about $105. Check ServiceHonda.com. Probably close to $80. It's the left side you can forget.

Steve,

I'll email the wiring diagram. You may be able to work with it better in that format. (not that I really have a computer clue

)

Hasenkopf · « **Reply #6 on:** November 11, 2009, 11:50:33 PM »

yeah, well if not there is one on sleaze-bay for $110.00

Don R · « **Reply #7 on:** November 12, 2009, 05:35:34 AM »

Thanks guys, The posts mostly led nowhere. I already used a double pole double throw switch on the 3 wires. One way it spins the motor and the other way it turns on the headlight. It isn't a momentary switch though. Maybe I'll look for something better and make up a kit for those not wanting to spend the money for NOS. I will order one for my bike this AM.

Bodi · « **Reply #8 on:** November 12, 2009, 06:02:28 AM »

No power at the headlight fuse means a problem with the ignition switch or harness. The online diagrams are generally useless because the resolution is poor and much of them are unreadable, if someone with a Honda shop manual would take a high resolution scan it could be cleaned up and compressed quite a bit (once you get the contrast adjusted so the white space is truly white instead of shades of gray, the compressed picture file gets about 80% smaller) and that would be great. I can do a 400F drawing but we would need all the models and versions... the 750 as the longest production run with various models would be the hardest to get complete.
Anyway the power distribution is fairly simple: red wire from the MAIN fuse goes to the ignition switch. When ON, power is sent to the kill switch and coils for the ignition system, plus instrument lights, oil and neutral lights and brake light. This power also feeds the HEAD fuse directly, from this fuse power goes to the headlight switch. The tail light circuit is more complex, because of the parking light circuit... but again in ON the TAIL fuse is powered from the ignition switch. In PARK, the tail light is powered through the MAIN fuse only, using an extra contact in the ignition switch.
Haynes and Clymer books have "simplified" wiring diagrams that make troubleshooting much more difficult if you have a problem with stuff that was simplified out of the drawing... like the parking light stuff. The Honda diagram in the shop manual (also in the user's book but ridiculously small) is complete and shows every wire and component.

Don R · « **Reply #9 on:** November 12, 2009, 03:20:13 PM »

There is no 75F diagram but the old man honda website has a color diagram for other bikes. I printed one on photo paper for my K0 and glued it to a beer carton. I can hang it close by when working on wiring.

75750SS · « **Reply #10 on:** November 13, 2009, 08:39:13 AM »

Try these.

http://home.comcast.net/~bkirchhoff1/site/?/photos/

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #11 on:** November 13, 2009, 02:11:51 PM »

Quote from: 75750SS on November 13, 2009, 08:39:13 AM

Try these.

http://home.comcast.net/~bkirchhoff1/site/?/photos/

I can see, I can see.

Thanks

Don R · « **Reply #12 on:** November 13, 2009, 03:06:32 PM »

Thats what I'm talkin about! Thank you very much. I printed it on photo paper it is so pretty.
I rode 70 miles today with the temp wiring, need an F muffler, I think I'm going to make something from stainless and if it comes out OK maybe more.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #13 on:** November 15, 2009, 03:10:40 PM »

After doing a bit more troubleshooting on the bike I am pretty sure it is the starter switch/button. This switch/button feeds the headlight fuse and the starter relay. If it were the ignition switch I would have other things like the horn, oil pressure light, neutral light, turn signal and buzzer, and taillights not working as these feed off the same 12v feed from the ignition as the starter switch. The only other potential culprit I came up with is the splice/multi connector where several of these functions, including the starter switch tie together. It is possible that the connection for the starter switch feed is bad at the multi connector though on this bike the wiring is in first rate like new condition so I doubt it. I will have to check that before I order the $90 part. I opened up the handlebar housing for the starter switch/ engine stop and noticed that the clear housing for the starter button inside was cracked. I am guessing this is what Jerry referred in an earlier post about being in deep when the housing cracks. So I buttoned it all back up and went for a ride today and will fix it later as the season is just about over and it is too cold to ride after dark anyways.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #14 on:** November 15, 2009, 05:18:20 PM »

Steve,

As they say "That's what I'm talking about". I don't know of a fix. Careful superglue perhaps with the housing pressed together. I touch my new starter button in my new control much lighter now. One of my issues is my starter clutch either not engaging or disengaging before it starts especially when cold. Sooooooo, the button gets more use. I do have the replacement parts for the clutch when I take the bike apart. Won't that be nice!!! Having the starter clutch issue is SOOOOOO annoying.

In case you haven't already, why don't you get a can of aerosol contact cleaner and spray the on/off switch then work the switch back and forth numerous times. A little dielectric grease could help protect it afterwards too.

As a side note I found I was having a non functioning headlight with my new switch. Just don't notice it during the day. I found a cracked connector in my female headlight connector. I think that possibly provided a bad connection. Not sure if that created the problem but that's another repair during the rebuild. Just let them all build up and do a restore like me.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #15 on:** November 15, 2009, 05:39:07 PM »

When I get the new switch maybe I will just have to "man up" and use the kick start more often to save the starter button. My XS650's are notorious for having a weak electric start as they age and I have not used it on my 79 for at least ten years so I am no stranger to using a bit of leg power. The Honda just made me soft this last summer.

Side note: The back of the fuse box checked out fine.

Don R · « **Reply #16 on:** November 15, 2009, 06:55:38 PM »

I have ordered a new right control and the temporary DPDT toggle is working nicely right now. I have to remember to switch from start to headlight because it is not momentary contact. It was handy to find these connectors in the little plastic box on the front of the frame. The carbs have been apart three times and seem to be working OK now. The custom F stainless muffler is looking good now I need to buy the permanant baffle.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #17 on:** November 26, 2009, 10:26:16 PM »

Quote from: Jerry Rxman Griffin on November 15, 2009, 05:18:20 PM

As a side note I found I was having a non functioning headlight with my new switch. Just don't notice it during the day. I found a cracked connector in my female headlight connector. I think that possibly provided a bad connection. Not sure if that created the problem but that's another repair during the rebuild. Just let them all build up and do a restore like me.

Are you talking about that black three prong plastic insulator/holder? I don't think a crack should be a problem so it may be elsewhere. Luckily that part is pretty generic so it should not be hard tracking one down, even a NOS one.

I think the ones in my XS are the same as the Honda.
Another place to check would be a cracked solder joint in the handlebar switch. I have seen that a few times and now just recently with one I picked up for my 75 XS650. I was only after the actual dimmer switch inside which was ok so it didn't matter but one of the wires on the contact plate that the dimmer switch slides on had a bad connection. Don't know how similar the Honda switch is as I have not opened mine on that side but it may be worth checking out.

Don R · « **Reply #18 on:** November 27, 2009, 01:47:23 PM »

My new right control came in. I haven't installed it yet. Working on carbs on another thread.

Hasenkopf · « **Reply #19 on:** November 27, 2009, 01:58:21 PM »

For what it's worth, I just got a brand new one from honda. it was made in china, and the kill switch knob was a burgundy color, so
i took it apart and just used the start switch inside.($89.00)

Don R · « **Reply #20 on:** November 28, 2009, 07:05:24 PM »

I got the purple switch too. fooey

News:

Author Topic: 75F starter switch and wiring diagram questions (Read 3547 times)