Author Topic: Garbage Rebuild (Read 38903 times)

torchmonkey · « **Reply #25 on:** November 29, 2009, 05:47:49 PM »

Progress today! Got the stuck pistons free! Soaked in PB Blaster for 10 days, a bunch of hammering w/ a chunk of oak and a mallet, 5 hrs of scratching my head and it's been accomplished!!! OK, so its a small step in my very long road ahead but probably the hardest one.
What the hell are piston rings made of? I actually soaked them in Windex for an hour and that is when they came free. Got the idea from a mountain bike forum, they use Windex to get aluminum seatposts free from steel frames. Anyway this headache is behind me.

The greatest flashlight ever, made by Streamlight, oh, and I designed it!!!

Spent an additional 3 hrs trying to get this bit of ring out of the case, nearly split the cases to do it, had all the bolts out when I figured I could push it throught the piston hole w/ a hanger.

MCRider · « **Reply #26 on:** November 29, 2009, 05:58:17 PM »

Piston rings are made of a high quality steel. The top ring is often chromed.

Rings to cylinders are steel on steel = rust. Probably just a coincidence that the windex was there when it broke free.

An acetone atf mix would have done it sooner IMHO.

torchmonkey · « **Reply #27 on:** November 29, 2009, 06:04:24 PM »

Eh, its done. Contemplating abandoning this project and selling all the bits. who wants what would you like to spend?
Wireing harness looks good, wires are still very pliable.
Seat trim in good condition.
Carbs look good.
etc...

steamnjn23 · « **Reply #28 on:** November 29, 2009, 07:56:38 PM »

hummm. how much for everything?

torchmonkey · « **Reply #29 on:** December 02, 2009, 04:00:39 PM »

Any hints on how to get these head cover "nuts" off, super stuck. Heat? Cold?

MCRider · « **Reply #30 on:** December 02, 2009, 05:40:53 PM »

YOu'd like to get them off without butchering the hex.

Get some soak going, PB Blaster, acetone/atf mix, or something.

A 6 point socket would be ideal but 12 points are more common. Tap the socket on to get a good hold. Use at least a 12" breaker bar on the socket. Give it a good QUICK jerk to shock it off.

They tend to really weld themselves on especially if they were tightened too much to begin with. THere is a large diameter rubber Oring betwen the cap and the cover and it tends to really stick. I've seen vicegrips used on these and reall butcher them.

A 17mm box end wrench is good but usually not enough oomph. The open end part of the wrench will ruin the hex for sure.

BAck to the 6 point socket, tap it on, use a lot of leverage, sneak up on it and Quick turn it off.

Oh yeah, and the penetrant first.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #31 on:** December 03, 2009, 08:00:47 AM »

Yup, everything he said, plus,

Since the cover is off, flip it over and apply the penetrating fluid on the inside where the caps screw in, this gets it directly on the threads. Applying from the outside, the o-ring keeps the fluid from reaching the threads as well. OTOH , though, it's likely the orings themselves are dried and/or cracked by now so who knows

Apply penetrating fluid on the outside too, to free up the outer edge of the cap from the valve cover.

I've had some success using channel lock pliers with a piece of leather as padding, to turn the cap using it's outer edge rather than the machined hex, but that approach more-often-than-not screws up the cap at least a little.

Replacement caps aren't that hard to find nor that expensive but it's always better to preserve what you have if you can.

mystic_1

torchmonkey · « **Reply #32 on:** December 06, 2009, 01:57:02 PM »

Thanks everyone for your input to date. It's all been very helpful.
I've run into yet another snag, How do I get this gear shift drum out?

MCRider · « **Reply #33 on:** December 06, 2009, 02:03:07 PM »

The neutral light switch is holding it in. THe switch enters from the bootom of the engine and engages the shift drum. It is held in by a 6mm bolt (10mm head) and a flat plate of metal. Take that off and pry grab and wigle the switch out. It is held in by the friction of an Oring. THen the drum will slide right out.

torchmonkey · « **Reply #34 on:** December 06, 2009, 02:44:54 PM »

Thanks, actually figured it out after taking a deep breath.

MCRider · « **Reply #35 on:** December 06, 2009, 03:31:41 PM »

Quote from: torchmonkey on December 06, 2009, 02:44:54 PM

Thanks, actually figured it out after taking a deep breath.

I knew you would.

Carry on!

Zaipai · « **Reply #36 on:** December 09, 2009, 09:16:32 AM »

Wow that is quite the project you got going on there.. GL with her..

torchmonkey · « **Reply #37 on:** December 16, 2009, 03:12:53 PM »

Haven't posted in a while, busy w/ work and holiday party planning. So I've been bead blasting and powder coating parts at work while on breaks. Things are finally moving forward. I'll be getting the head back tomorrow, it was a wreck and the machine shop did a great job of lapping the valves, only had to replace 2 exhaust valves. Photos manana. I'll be taking the cylinders and pistons in to them as well, though I don't think the pistons are any good after whacking them repeatedly to free them. I nearly gave up on this project after the tear down but things are looking up. The cases are split and the bottom is all taped up and ready for blasting, should be done by the end of the week at which point I'll retape w/ High temp tape and parchment paper and powdercoat flat black. Not going fo a cafe bike here, gonna do something somewhat original. Anyhow here are some photos.
[imgwidth=600height=450]http://i782.photobucket.com/albums/yy110/torchmonkey/DSC01724.jpg[/img]

Shined up the forks, thats not pitting, just some WD-40 and dust, came out pretty well. Oh, they sell Quick-Glo again if anyone knows what that is, the best rust remover on the planet.

J.Webster Designs · « **Reply #38 on:** December 16, 2009, 03:26:40 PM »

keep it going man...you'll get her back on the road and give her the life that she should of had.... it will be worth the effort in the end.

Zaipai · « **Reply #39 on:** December 16, 2009, 05:59:26 PM »

Wow, looking good so far.. Can't wait to see it done.. You do also I bet?

joec3613 · « **Reply #40 on:** December 16, 2009, 06:17:13 PM »

It's always nice to finish some part of the project even a small one. I've just started my project and hope to start getting parts done soon. Good luck!

torchmonkey · « **Reply #41 on:** December 19, 2009, 11:15:54 AM »

Bottom case-half post media blasting.

Bottom case-half post powdercoating. Looking good, I must say!

Valve seats ground and valves lapped by Cycle Stop in Norristown, PA, great guys. Had to replace 2 exhaust valves, they were cooked. They're currently honing the cylinders. I have to replace all the pistons, Wiseco? I'm really looking forward to putting this motor together now.

CBJoe · « **Reply #42 on:** December 19, 2009, 11:31:48 AM »

I cant believe that's the same engine.... Case looks great powdercoated. Cant wait to see the final project.

Cheers, Joe

Holdingfast · « **Reply #43 on:** December 19, 2009, 01:17:02 PM »

My God, I would have not known where to start.. I mean.. wow.
But clearly the enthusiasm is there. Super Impressive. I cannot wait to see what happens!

Zaipai · « **Reply #44 on:** December 19, 2009, 08:02:43 PM »

That's some great working going on there.. Great attention to detail.. Gonna look super I bet!

torchmonkey · « **Reply #45 on:** December 20, 2009, 07:07:25 PM »

Thanks for all the encouraging words, Been super fun so far. If I manage to get the top half of the case blasted and coated this week (already taped for blasting), I should be able to get the bottom end together if the shop I go to can get the gasket set in time. I have all the other chrome bits at a ghetto ass chrome shop in the Kensington area of Philly, having them stripped to steel before powder coating. going w/ gloss black for the rims and hubs and flat black for all other chrome bits. The head, cylinder block and valve cover are going to be a high temp flat dark grey-ish color and I may do the covers the same. see below for a general reference.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #46 on:** December 21, 2009, 06:59:30 AM »

Outstanding!

Carry on.

mystic_1

byfbo · « **Reply #47 on:** December 21, 2009, 07:08:31 AM »

It's lookin good. I like that powder coat.

HedNut · « **Reply #48 on:** December 21, 2009, 11:12:14 AM »

WOW... that's awesome! Your bike in the 4th picture should be blown-up and an inspirational poster made for all us guys ressurecting an ol' honda. "That's not a rusty exhaust....it's a finely engineered heat dissipating POWER OUTLET!" BRAAAP-BRAAAAAAP!
I'm proud of you....keep it uP! LOOKS AWESOME...wish I had access to blasting/powder coating facilities.

Cheers!

torchmonkey · « **Reply #49 on:** December 27, 2009, 11:22:13 AM »

I took a litle holiday cash and bought myself 2 engine stands from Harbor Freight and modified them to create a rotisserie engine stand a la blake255. I'll spare you the details, you can read about how it's made here:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=58210.0

Starting to piece the motor back together, just waiting for the gasket set. While waiting I'll be powdercoating the head and head cover.

News:

Author Topic: Garbage Rebuild (Read 38903 times)

torchmonkey

torchmonkey

torchmonkey

torchmonkey

torchmonkey

torchmonkey

joec3613

torchmonkey

torchmonkey

byfbo

torchmonkey