Bill,
Quarter Jr. gives you .1 improvement in the first sixty feet for the gearing improvement. 1.2 mph up at the finish line. 92.3 mph at the 1/8th mile mark. It doesn't show you going into the 12's. High 2.3 second sixty foot times at best.
I'm tired of saying the same stuff. More power down low and the bike will get more consistent. It will also run quicker. More gearing is a minor help. What you're playing with the carbs won't amount to much of any difference. If you're testing locally in couple of weeks, please use Mike's looser valve lash recommendations. That will help a little.
The motor has an adjustable cam sprocket. It can be advanced by removing the valve cover, loosening the two bolts holding the cam gear to the camshaft, spin over the motor by your choice of spots to advance the cam relative to the sprocket a little, re-tighten the bolts to the cam gear, and button up the valve cover. That's worth more than what you will be getting with the carb slide spring changes.
Consistency requires more power at launch than you currently have. I'd be looking for 3 tenths improvement in the first 60' at a minimum to get a consistent bike. You need to launch the bike with more than stock horsepower at your launch rpm. Ignition box changes, carb slide spring cutting, and more rear gearing won't get you there.
Even with a cam change, you need passes to give you a history to draw on for dialing in at Valdosta in November. Changing something every time out gives you no history to use. I don't know why you're expecting different results going down the same path. I've been down these paths before.
If we go back many pages in this topic, I attached a picture in the early 80's of a Hondamatic CB750A drag racing on the track. It shows the bike with the front wheel about a foot in the air. The driver of that bike is in the performance motorcycle industry today. He fondly remembers winning a lot of bracket races back when he had that bike. It ran 12's. The point was that the powerband of his bike was so strong that it would pick up the front wheel in a power wheelie as it was going down the track. It didn't wheelie off of the line, but the power built so rapidly that it would pick up the front wheel going down the track. My drag hondamatic 750's run a wheelie bar just for that power wheelie problem. It doesn't last long, but the bike picks up the front wheel every pass about 30' off of the starting line. The bike's wheelie bar wheels hit the ground, the front end immediately comes back down and the rest of the run is normal. That's what you and Sam need; the feeling of the front wheel trying to come up off of the ground as you are going down the track in low gear. Get the powerband to do that and I'll show you an ATM.
J. Weeks
