We need to start getting serious here!? Bill needs some motor running time before it's maiden voyage. You'll need an idle screw in the carb linkage. My attempt wasn't well thought out! If you set the idle with the throttle cable, you will shorten the cable life. I need a mailing address for the stuff you'll need that you don't have before it starts going down the track.(private message) Do we have the 20W-40/50 Yamalube conventional bike oil located for use after tossing the initial breakin oil? The clock is ticking....
Front fork brace loops are extra weight and unneeded. The oil cooler would look better directly below the headlight if there is suspension room. If necessary the steering shock can mount above the triple tree with the oil cooler above the headers, below the tank. The air cools the oil going down the track. The headers heat the oil when staging. Both in moderation are good things.
Slightly off topic, but definitely in response to previous comments: Automatic cranks have the exact same stroke as the clutch versions. The primary chain changes but using gold wing clutch baskets, you can make it work. The real factory stroker crank is the '79-'82 Honda 900F. You don't want to use the '82 1100F crank due to cam chain issues. You'll gain 6mm in stroke. You can make a metal spacer for the bottom of the cylinders and use stock length rods and/or use shorter DOHC Honda 750 rods (4?mm shorter) The SOHC case must have some slight relief for the "stroker" counterweights. The ignition used is stock points plate/advancer unit from the older bike that the DOHC crank end is modified to use. Seals aren't the same for the crank ends. You'll have challenges to modify the 900F crank to kick or electric start. It's a lot easier to weld up your stock crank to increase the stroke. Ape can help with that. The torque increase in the midrange is very noticeable.
The stock rods don't break with a torque converter. Clutch SOHC 750's drag raced do break rods especially with heavier pistons (aka bigger). The shock loading of sticky rubber and grabbing clutches can break stock rods especially as you significantly increase horsepower. Hondamatics don't have as much shock loads when drag racing. The stock rods stretch with bigger, heavier pistons. The piston pins will start rattling in oval holes in the small ends of the stock rods. I've got a set that I replaced shortly before it would have put metal on metal somewhere.... The DOHC 750 Honda rods are better, but still not designed for racing.
Sam, you need to start working on your reactions - No, not catching the flask before it hits the floor! We're not trying to improve your wrist or elbow motions, but your fingers need to be on time. I'll find an online practice tree somewhere and post the url here.
I'm booking my flight this week. At least one of us is crazy here!
Hondamatic
