Topic: Should I waste my money on JIS screwdrivers?

[robdrobd]

Hey,

It seems that every screw on my engine is frozen solid. I have an allen stainless kit waiting to go in, but I can't get a single one of the old ones out without a huge hassle. I will most likely never use the screwdriver again after the new bolts go in. Will the JIS work easily, or will the screws still be impossible to turn?

ps- if anyone has an extra JIS they aren't using feel free to ship it off to me 

[mlinder]

Impact screwdriver.

Better investment, IMO.

[MCRider]

Hey,

It seems that every screw on my engine is frozen solid. I have an allen stainless kit waiting to go in, but I can't get a single one of the old ones out without a huge hassle. I will most likely never use the screwdriver again after the new bolts go in. Will the JIS work easily, or will the screws still be impossible to turn?

ps- if anyone has an extra JIS they aren't using feel free to ship it off to me  

A hammer impact with a #3 standard bit should get them if they are going to be gotten.

That's been my experience anyway. Don't wimp out on the hammer. at least 1lb ball peen, more is better. Wear gloves. Don't wimp out on SMACKing it either.

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000723.php

[GammaFlat]

I agree that an impact is the only good way out with some screws and make sure as mentioned that you use a #3 bit.  Lots of folks make the mistake of using the more common (smaller) #2. 

Having said all that, I'll be buying at least one JIS set (maybe I'll whisper in Santa's ear).  The slots are shaped differently than "Phillips" and I'll need to be putting things back together at some point.  Another reason for me to have the JIS is that I have more than one of these bikes (don't we all?) and even if I did allens on one engine, I'd have others with JIS screws...

[MCRider]

I agree that an impact is the only good way out with some screws and make sure as mentioned that you use a #3 bit.  Lots of folks make the mistake of using the more common (smaller) #2. 

Having said all that, I'll be buying at least one JIS set (maybe I'll whisper in Santa's ear).  The slots are shaped differently than "Phillips" and I'll need to be putting things back together at some point.  Another reason for me to have the JIS is that I have more than one of these bikes (don't we all?) and even if I did allens on one engine, I'd have others with JIS screws...

Yes, The number 3 actaully looks too big to many people, but it is the proper size. The #2 will destroy the head.

[robdrobd]

The sears impact driver has good reviews, but it looks like it might be to "chunky" to fit into some of the tight spots around the alternator cover.

[DanEarl]

yes impact driver is definitely the way to go.  don't forget to soak them in some rust penetrant first also.  or 'panther piss' as my (70 year old) boss calls it.

[Old Scrambler]

Plus 1 on the driver and hammer.  I use extensions for tight spots.  I have both sizes of JIS screwdrivers and they sure work great......especially when you want to remove that brandnew screw. 

[Rampage1967]

My vote is an impact driver with the proper JIS bits.

[GammaFlat]

I cannot find JIS bits for an impact driver.  I'd also like to find the long bits.  It would be a real bonanza if I could get long JIS bits.  Anybody got any sources for me? 

[754]

Rob, are you telling us you found allen heads for your:

headlight screws

switch housings

point cover

clutch cover

bearing holder oil passage, under shifter cover

 for your 750..??.. if you do not have a 750 disregard

[toycollector10]

Spray all your stuck bolts and screws with PB Blaster before you start to wrench them.

http://www.jeepfan.com/reviews/pbblaster.htm

[Alan F.]

The Sears impact driver will fit everywhere on a 750 engine you'd need to use it, no worries there. 

But the deal with the screws in my opinion isn't so much that the thread are frozen, in my experience it's just the screw heads that have reacted to the aluminum engine covers and have become permanently attached. I've had to drill out stubborn ones before, just drill carefully and check often to see how far you've got left to go. Once the screw heads are off, the cover can be removed easily. The rest of the screw it seems, can always be threaded out with just two fingers, no other tools required.
I wonder if a few heat cycles with a torch or heat gun will help activate some PB blaster? or 50-50 acetone/tranny fluid?
-Alan

[CycleRanger]

Not a waste.  $14 + shipping for #'s 1-4.
Standard screwdrivers.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#53325A41

[Gregorymoto]

Just in case you missed it. PB Blaster and Impact screwdriver. Buy your impact from Sears or Proto or MAC. The bits stay true longer. U will also need a rubber mallet. Thats all u need.
If one of the screws is being nasty, add more PB and add some heat and then start back in with with the impact driver. Take your time.

[Alan F.]

A rubber mallet?

[Gordon]

A rubber mallet?

To hit the impact driver with.

[754]

 I use steel or brass.. my idea is to tranfer impact, not soften the blow..

[Gordon]

I use steel or brass.. my idea is to tranfer impact, not soften the blow..

I've used several types, and the rubber mallet works best for me.  The "softening" effect isn't enough to make a difference in this application. 

[turboguzzi]

interesting, tinking about it, the soft mallet can actually elongate the energy transferred to rotate the bolt, good idea.

just curious about one thing, from my knowledge, SS and aluminum clamped together actually promote corrosion, what's your experience guys?

tg

[MCRider]

interesting, tinking about it, the soft mallet can actually elongate the energy transferred to rotate the bolt, good idea.

just curious about one thing, from my knowledge, SS and aluminum clamped together actually promote corrosion, what's your experience guys?

tg

Can't imagine a soft mallet doing the job as well as a hard one, but i haven't tried.

Yes I've always heard 2 disimilar metals together promotes corrosion, hence the use of "anti-seize" compound.

[turboguzzi]

interesting, tinking about it, the soft mallet can actually elongate the energy transferred to rotate the bolt, good idea.

just curious about one thing, from my knowledge, SS and aluminum clamped together actually promote corrosion, what's your experience guys?

tg

Can't imagine a soft mallet doing the job as well as a hard one, but i haven't tried.

Yes I've always heard 2 disimilar metals together promotes corrosion, hence the use of "anti-seize" compound.

so what kind of anti seize compound are people using on engine cases SS screws?

i'll stick to cadmium plated steel for now...

[MCRider]

interesting, tinking about it, the soft mallet can actually elongate the energy transferred to rotate the bolt, good idea.

just curious about one thing, from my knowledge, SS and aluminum clamped together actually promote corrosion, what's your experience guys?

tg

Can't imagine a soft mallet doing the job as well as a hard one, but i haven't tried.

Yes I've always heard 2 disimilar metals together promotes corrosion, hence the use of "anti-seize" compound.

so what kind of anti seize compound are people using on engine cases SS screws?

i'll stick to cadmium plated steel for now...

Its cheap, buy it in a can at the auto supply. Mine is a "Pro-Honda" product but I'm sure they just buy it somewhere and relabel it. "Provides lubrication (for good torque readings) and waterproofing" "endorsed by Honda Racing" "extreme pressure-protects against galling and seizing" "Use for engine head bolts, exhaust manifold studs, etc. etc".  Simply dip the leading threads in the jar and install, or brush it on a nut, it will spread itself uip the shaft as you thread it in.

I'm probably 1 oz thru an 8oz bottle in 10 years.

[Dead Bound]

I agree with the CRAFTSMAN impact driver.  $25 for the heavy duty.

DO NOT waste your time with the Harbor Freight one.  I could not get any of the screws loose with it.  The I bought the one from Sears and got every screw loose with a rubber hammer and 2-4 strokes.... even the stripped carb screws.  


I'm still waiting to get a JIS driver set.  Can't find one locally. 

[Fabricator]

Cycle-Ranger,

Thanks for the Mc-master link!  I just ordered a set.

  Yes, I have a "Prima" impact driver, and Yes, I replaced all the JIS Phillips screws I could (Including the little buggers on my points plate), as the PO's tore them up.  I think some of the fastener damage has as much to do with the absence of "JIS" tools, as it does with lazy "mechanics/shade-tree wrench turners" that simply did not use the "correct" size "American"  screwdriver, or fetch an impact driver.  I did not know about the "JIS" tools until reading here, but never stripped a clean un-molested screw on the bikes, because I used the impact driver (sometimes with a 4lb hand-sledge) to break everything loose.  Even the little ones inside the handlebar switches... I had a helper hold a heavy metal block under the bars to "buck-up" the blows.

Fabricator