Topic: Stuck Float Pin Removal Tool

[CBJoe]

Hey All,

I tried different combo's of searches, but I cannot find the following info.

Somewhere here on the forum's is a thread that had pics of tools rigged up to help remove stuck float pivot pins. 
The tools were rigged to press out the stuck float pin but to also support the towers so as not to break them.

Anyone remember where this thread is or have pictures of these home made tools?

Regards, Joe

[Old Scrambler]

I use a cut-off finish nail......place the dimpled head on the pin and tap softly after a liberal application of carb cleaner. If you have a 'frozen' pin, try rotating it.  If you have the carb 'in-hand' you can use a small threaded-style C-clamp for evenly distributed pressure on the pin.   

[fmctm1sw]

I hope to see some ideas on this as well.  I have some that are really stuck too.  I suppose I could strip the rack and soak them in B12 since I'm not using the rack right now.  I also pondered cutting the floats off (I have a spare set) so I could grab them and twist.

[BobbyR]

I use a cut-off finish nail......place the dimpled head on the pin and tap softly after a liberal application of carb cleaner. If you have a 'frozen' pin, try rotating it.  If you have the carb 'in-hand' you can use a small threaded-style C-clamp for evenly distributed pressure on the pin.   

That usually works. You can use a bit if heat. The towers are aluminum and the pin is steel so they expand at different rates.

[CBJoe]

I use a cut-off finish nail......place the dimpled head on the pin and tap softly after a liberal application of carb cleaner. If you have a 'frozen' pin, try rotating it.  If you have the carb 'in-hand' you can use a small threaded-style C-clamp for evenly distributed pressure on the pin.   

That usually works. You can use a bit if heat. The towers are aluminum and the pin is steel so they expand at different rates.

This is close to what I normally do, but I am really wishing that I had saved the pictures of the tools some folks had made up. 

[Hush]

Could you use CO2 like from a fire extinguisher to make the area so cold that either the steel pin or the alloy towers would let go?

[CBJoe]

Hey Hush,

Might Work, but I would think that a bit of heat will probably free it up better than cooling.

I'm really just trying to find the pictures of the home made tools that I saw on a previous thread.  There were two different types pictured.  I just cant seem to find the thread that they are located in.

Joe

[Terry in Australia]

Whatever you do, be careful, I wrecked one set of carbs when I busted one of the towers, and I thought I was being careful? I recently stripped and cleaned a set of 29mm Mikuni "Smoothbore" carbs, and being mindful of my previous disaster, I soaked the carbs for a couple of weeks in Lloyd's (Two tired) home style penetrating fluid, (50/50 mix of acetone and ATF) before gently tapping out the pins with a finishing nail, using a "dolly" to brace the float tower. Cheers, Terry.

[gane]

As a tech I run into frozen pins frequently, and have found that the little automatic (spring actuated) center punches are excellent for this application. I have one which I "squared" the tip on to keep from "swelling" pins. a finger on the back side of post and repeated applications have stood me in good stead. luck G

[Terry in Australia]

As a tech I run into frozen pins frequently, and have found that the little automatic (spring actuated) center punches are excellent for this application. I have one which I "squared" the tip on to keep from "swelling" pins. a finger on the back side of post and repeated applications have stood me in good stead. luck G

That's a good tip mate, much simpler than the standard "hammer and nail" method. I'm off to buy an automatic centre punch!

[BobbyR]

As a tech I run into frozen pins frequently, and have found that the little automatic (spring actuated) center punches are excellent for this application. I have one which I "squared" the tip on to keep from "swelling" pins. a finger on the back side of post and repeated applications have stood me in good stead. luck G

That's a good tip mate, much simpler than the standard "hammer and nail" method. I'm off to buy an automatic centre punch!

+1

[CBJoe]

As a tech I run into frozen pins frequently, and have found that the little automatic (spring actuated) center punches are excellent for this application. I have one which I "squared" the tip on to keep from "swelling" pins. a finger on the back side of post and repeated applications have stood me in good stead. luck G

That's a good tip mate, much simpler than the standard "hammer and nail" method. I'm off to buy an automatic centre punch!

+1

 +2....Might be a good addition to the Tips and Tricks Section.  Looks like another tool for the "Must Have" List 

[MRieck]

BigJim welds broken posts (and does a great job). He saved my a$$ once.

[Don R]

tig weld or that alloy they sell at the swap meets?

[gane]

Gents, not sure if this will be seen, but...the automatic (spring loaded) center punch is a neat tool.And i use it often. Asside from removing frozen float pins, By punching shift shafts and brake cams, it allows permanant referances for re-affixing arms to previous locations. also handy for #'ing  multiple bits  ie pistons/rods /bits.. also handy for removing deformed drain bolt sealing washers, AND  (out of the dark) if you should ever have the mis-fortune of breaking off a tap/extractor .....This little gem exerts enough extreemly localized pressure to fracture carbide tool steel (sometimes) allowing removal. Oh yeah, sometimes chasing a broken stud/screw/bolt from outer circumference at proper angle aids removal.  Unlike most other approches its light/concentrated force often facilitates loosening without damaging/deforming bits. luck, G

[gane]

Appologies, was attemping to enter in Tip's... again my computer ineptitude betrays me.abashed.G

[MRieck]

tig weld or that alloy they sell at the swap meets?

Micro welding which resembles tig when done. It is the very best solution to a broken post problem.

[CBJoe]

Appologies, was attemping to enter in Tip's... again my computer ineptitude betrays me.abashed.G

No Worries    Thanks for the tip.  I'll definitely be picking one of these up.

Cheers, Joe

[Peterbylt]

I don't know if anyone has seen this before or even if it will work on an SOHC4 but I used one of these on my GL1000 carbs with excellent results.
The carbs came disassembled in a box and one of float posts was broken off (I didn't do it !)
http://www.randakks.com/Float%20Pivot%20Post%20Repair%20Kit.htm

Peter

[magconpres]

Here's a tip useful when using heat to separate parts.  I haven't tried this with float pins, but probably will this weekend.
After heating the parts to be separated, use some of that air duster spray to cool the "inner" part (the pin in this case).
Turn the can upside down so the fluid comes out instead of the expanding air.  With the straw on the can, you can direct the fluid directly to the part to cool.  It will cool it very fast (frost will form on the part).
I have used this on bolts before, and slow to remove dings from car door panels (that's how I found out about this in the first place...you heat the entire area with a heat gun, then hit the ding with the cold fluid causing the metal to shrink in that spot).

[magconpres]

I have a set of spare carbs I got off eBay that were in pretty bad shape.  Today I tackled the float pins.
In then end, I used a combination of things.  I made a jig out of a block of wood to support the post. I used the spring loaded center punch (which worked great).  I had to make a punch that was thin and long enough to push the pin all the way through both posts.  I did this by chucking a nail in my drill press and taking a file to it.  I also used heat to heat the posts and some "air in a can" to cool down the pin.  In the end I had a process that worked consistently.  Unfortunately, I broke two posts figuring it out.

At first I just started with the center punch.  The center punch was working fine until the pin was free of the first post.  The next shot broke off the far post.  Ugh.

So I then made the jig to support the post.  I just cut a small piece of wood so it was the right height to support the post with the car on its side.  I made a shallow channel to cradle the post.  Once the pin pushed through a bit and marked the wood, I drilled a hole for it to pass into.  This worked pretty well.  The pin was mostly through when I decided to try to pull it out with pliers.  Bad move.  The pin was frozen to the float bracket and when I tugged on it, I broke the post.

So, I headed out to get the canned air.  I have a pencil torch that allows me to apply heat accurately.  I was able to heat the two posts and the float mount and then (once the pin was out a bit) cool the pin with the fluid from the canned air (I think it's CO2).  The pin came out pretty quick with no damage on the next two carbs.

So now I have to get the two carbs welded and get some new pins (I broke the pins too on the first two carbs).  Hopefully it won't cost too much to get the carbs fixed.

[demon78]

If you need an air spray to cool parts go to an electronic store and get freeze spray tech's use it to cool electronic components for trouble shooting. Some come with adjustable sprays.
Bill the demon.

[magconpres]

If you need an air spray to cool parts go to an electronic store and get freeze spray tech's use it to cool electronic components for trouble shooting. Some come with adjustable sprays.
Bill the demon.

I'll check it out for next time.