Topic: Clutch Lifter Rod (or some combination of those 3 words)

[ZombieBike]

Just when I think I am getting close to having this bike all together and ready to tune I discovered this afternoon my clutch lifter rod (or clutch rod lifter, or "rod, clutch lifter) is broken in two. Judging from the Greenspun Archives this is not unheard of, in fact it seems very common. In fact a poster going by the handle "HakonS" even stated that he (or she) replaced the stock aluminum rod with a homemade steel one. Has anyone else tried this? With any success? I figure a steel rod costs a fraction of the price of a new aluminum rod from Honda ($32.00 U.S.) and I am trying to get this bike running on the cheap. Thanks, Kyle

[Paul]

Kyle, The lifter rod is made of steel (as far as I know, mine was, and if they are not........they should be.). I made one from stainless, Stepped and pointed one end and used a ball end cutter on the lathe to make the spherical "dent" to take the steel ball on the other end, no issues whatsoever. I imagine theres no difference if either you or Honda make the same thing...apart from the cost!. There was a thread covering this in the old site if you are able to find it.

[ZombieBike]

Perhaps this is a extremely dangerous idea, or maybe just a stupid one, but what about "JB Weld"-ing the rod together? Maybe?

[cben750f0]

you would use the clutch once nd it would break again.... look for a second hand one or as b4 make one... not worth the mucking around with... but that just my opinion... peace

[CHUNG]

You can weld it, but MR JB should be excluded from the repair. LOL It should be tapered a bit and I would think that a partial penetration weld should be fine since it is primararily in compression when loaded. Bout a 45 deg angle on the joint should do. Maybe 25% of the OD on the taper might be enough. A bit of jumping around with many small welds will help keep the distortion to a Min. Get a MIG or TIG, keep the farmers away from your bike when weldin???