Topic: chain tension

[mrblasty]

I just rebuilt my rear brakes, swing arm, replaced the sprocket and chain and now have a new tire in the back.
I adjusted the chain tension by the book, the rear tire is square and the bike tracks nice and straight.
Now for the question, I heard the chain clicking at the drive gear(while i was walking the bike backwards into the garage.)
Could it be I have the chain too tight or is this normal for a new chain, the chain I replaced was shot.

[TwoTired]

Did you replace the front sprocket, rear sprocket or both??
Have you lubed the chain?  With what?

O ring chain or standard?

[Paul]

Some manuals detail how to tension the chain whilst the bike is on the centre stand, Bear in mind that the chain, if done this way, will tension  even more when the stand is off, and more again with a rider on it. Is the chain the correct width / O-Ring etc.

[Jim Shea]

Did it make the noise going forwards as well as backwards?

[Raul CB750K1]

It happened to me. It was rubbing on the chainguard, but not continuously. Anyway, your case may be different.

Raul

[HondaMan]

Blasty;

If you have a non-Honda front sprocket, this can happen even though the chain is set correctly. Honda removed the top 3-4mm of tooth length, plus they tapered the tops of every tooth on front and rear sprockets, plus they made the base circle of the sprockets .5mm larger than ANSI specs, all to stop that noise. So, make sure there is .75" to 1" of slack at the middle of the chain when the bike is held straight upright and that's your slack adjustment: if it still makes noise then check to see if you have a non-Honda sprocket. If the noise is there with a Honda sprocket, then the front one's teeth are probably severely worn.

[8 Track]

Did you replace the front sprocket, rear sprocket or both??
Have you lubed the chain?  With what?

O ring chain or standard?

If you didn't replace both sprockets and chain, the chain might go loose, tight, loose tight...  They wear together and that condition is worn out.  The book says anything looser than 1.5 inches (total deflection) requires attention.  It goes on to say adjust to about 3/4 inch.  Too tight in my opinion, but that's my source of information.

[Jim Shea]

You need to check tension; on stand, off stand and with you on the bike!

[8 Track]

You need to check tension; on stand, off stand and with you on the bike!

I take a tie down strap and click click click click down to put the sprockets in line with the swingarm pivot point.  Then I have peace of mind!

[SteveD CB500F]

Cool.

Never thought of that!

I must admit that I normally check on centre stand, adjust and then just sit on the bike to see if its all OK - not too scientific.

[HondaMan]

If you have a stock swingarm/shock length setup, make the on-stand slack 1", the on-ground slack 3/4". The slack is least when the rear wheel is passing the midpoint of swing, which is about when the (stock) shock is compressed 2". This point should be about 1/2" of slack, if you're a purist (and your chain and sprockets are new, but run in about 100 miles) or a roadracer.

[mrblasty]

Hey all, the rear sprocket is not stock but new, the chain is new the drive sprocket is not new but checked out o.k.
I adjusted the chain to .75'' on the stand and noticed the noise after the first ride, but after  95-100 miles I don't notice it.

[HondaMan]

Then the grease has wicked its way out of the bushings and the chain now has some lateral play, letting it runs quieter. The CB750, in particular the post-K1 models, does not run the chain in a straight line, hence Honda's tapering of the sprockets. A chain with a little extra side play runs quieter on these machines as a result.

[Jim Shea]

The manual says, 3/4(20mm) in slack on the stand and 1/2(13mm) with you on the bike.

[Uncle Ernie]

Don't forget to check it out again after riding. New chains stretch like crazy at first.