Author Topic: Frame mod cb 750 (Read 77803 times)

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #150 on:** December 06, 2013, 02:13:47 PM »

Put me down for a set Frank, I don't need them (I've got a Gordon Kit) but I like the work you've done, and I reckon it's a better option, particularly as it'll be easier to return to stock . Cheers, Terry.

timbo750 · « **Reply #151 on:** December 06, 2013, 02:43:16 PM »

Frank, thanks for the update I like the easy clearance check you mentioned, I will be in 2 sets when finished.
Cheers, Tim

Black 750K8 · « **Reply #152 on:** December 06, 2013, 02:59:01 PM »

"Re the triangle brace, you will be able to use it but I want to make the flat bars out of alloy, and fit tight against the rolled edge...keep everything light."

Frank
On mine and it is stock you would have to grind the weld to do that. I'm thinking of using flat stock 2 pieces on each side and cut it just shy of the weld so it will lay flat. Maybe put it on the inside drill and tap 1/4 28 on each end drill next size larger hole on the triangle for the bolt to pass through. Make my cut at the half way point. Would this work or do you see something wrong with this? Or does it not matter about grinding that little part of the weld?

754 · « **Reply #153 on:** December 06, 2013, 06:52:25 PM »

The brace itself has a rolled edge, you may be talking about where the brace is welded to the tubing?
The flat bar is shorter than the distance between the tubes, and the brace gets cut in the middle. I will make the flatbar so that it can fit snug against the rolled edge of the brace, and not move around once bolted in place..

The thing part in the drawing is the cross section of the brace.. Like where it gets cut.

Don R · « **Reply #154 on:** December 06, 2013, 07:11:01 PM »

On my Gordons kit I made steel flatbars with a rounded edge and tapped the holes for 5/16" threads so it didn't need nuts.

On my dragbike project I was going to telescope the one size smaller tubing back into the rear frame. I decided the paint would mess that up so I'm making something out of the leftover moly from our funny car project.

Black 750K8 · « **Reply #155 on:** December 06, 2013, 10:55:58 PM »

OK Frank I see now what you are talking about the rolled edge on the inside and yes I was talking about the brace to tube weld on the outside.
Don I was planning on tapping too so no nut and think I will go with 5/16" instead of 1/4" but still use Frank's part.

timbo750 · « **Reply #156 on:** December 07, 2013, 03:51:59 AM »

Quote from: Black 750K8 on December 06, 2013, 10:55:58 PM

OK Frank I see now what you are talking about the rolled edge on the inside and yes I was talking about the brace to tube weld on the outside.
Don I was planning on tapping too so no nut and think I will go with 5/16" instead of 1/4" but still use Frank's part.

Have any of guys used a rivet nut, it would be perfect to use on the aluminium that Frank is suggesting to use.

754 · « **Reply #157 on:** December 07, 2013, 07:58:12 AM »

I think i have a good light strap solution for up top, but the hard part is getting the holes drilled, in the steel part while, keeping the strap against the rolled edge.
It will involve a bit of hand fitting to get a good fit. Not everyone will want to take the time to fit it well or have the skills. The joint will be stiffer though if fit nicely.
One problem I encountered was that the front to back width of the brace, varied over the years, so making the strap a certain width, will not fit the same on all frames.

Garage_guy_chris · « **Reply #158 on:** December 09, 2013, 02:31:37 PM »

I just finished pulling the engine on my K4 and its a pretty tight fit. I would also like to be able to re-torque and inspect the valve train and so on.

This thread caught my attention and appears to be a great solution. I also dont mind a weld-in style kit like the Gordon Kit or the cycle X kit if anything i think i prefer it as the bike is basically 100% torn down and in the process of restoration. The problem is getting a kit, Gordon kits are not currently being made and Cycle X is currently out of stock (along with 3/4 of the other stuff i need)

Anybody have any other idea's or source for a weld in kit?

754 · « **Reply #159 on:** December 09, 2013, 03:01:13 PM »

This one will be way cheaper than the weld in kit..
Less work to install, AND you can easily go back to stock

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #160 on:** December 09, 2013, 04:37:23 PM »

Quote from: Terry in Australia on December 06, 2013, 02:13:47 PM

Put me down for a set Frank, I don't need them (I've got a Gordon Kit)

I imagine that would be my kit ..?

UK Pete · « **Reply #161 on:** December 10, 2013, 11:13:38 AM »

I made a simple kit for 2 of my bikes a few years back, it works really well and was so cheap to do, here it is installed on one of my bikes, and also it can be reversed if really needed

pete

754 · « **Reply #162 on:** December 10, 2013, 03:03:34 PM »

Wow..I guess we think alike..

Phoenix · « **Reply #163 on:** December 10, 2013, 04:00:53 PM »

I just spoke w/mcrider yesterday about something like Pete came up with if we have clearance issues. I also brought up the idea that maybe we could put (Epoxy,...) either tubing or solid slugs inside the tubing to be joined, on each side of the joint, maybe 1' pieces, to keep it from crimping when you tighten the joints. Is this worth considering?

MCRider · « **Reply #164 on:** December 10, 2013, 04:30:57 PM »

Quote from: Phoenix on December 10, 2013, 04:00:53 PM

I just spoke w/mcrider yesterday about something like Pete came up with if we have clearance issues. I also brought up the idea that maybe we could put (Epoxy,...) either tubing or solid slugs inside the tubing to be joined, on each side of the joint, maybe 1' pieces, to keep it from crimping when you tighten the joints. Is this worth considering?

Ed saw how close the tubes are to my VM29s. Hardly a paper's width will slide in there. In fact on Phaedrus I, the tops of the VM29s on one side rubbed on the sleeves of my APE kit. Those sleeves are no more than 3/32nds thick.

I have no clue how tight the tubes are to stock carbs. And different stockers have different tops. In fact Ed, I have a set of K2 carbs laying on the shelf. We could mock them up.

UK Pete: What carbs are you using? Have you had your set up fully assembled and used?

UK Pete · « **Reply #165 on:** December 11, 2013, 06:12:38 AM »

MCRider, yes i have these installed on my 77 F2 (supersport) with no fitting issues it has been on the road for a couple of years like it now, the bike is a standard set up, the collars can be spun round till they clear everything i do remember that they were close to the carbs , but not close enough to be a problem,

MCRider · « **Reply #166 on:** December 11, 2013, 08:31:42 AM »

Very good. Nice bike!

754 · « **Reply #167 on:** December 11, 2013, 10:16:11 AM »

Ok , picking up material to start on the first batch.. The price will be 125 plus shipping.
By the end of the first batch, i will have a firm idea of price. Which may end up a bit more.
So speak up if you want in on this batch of 10 sets.
They will have 4 round connectors, 2 straps, and fasteners, in each set. Thanks

timbo750 · « **Reply #168 on:** December 11, 2013, 12:49:34 PM »

Frank count me in for two if you could please, I am trying to avoid paying the freight twice.

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk

ZanVooden · « **Reply #169 on:** December 11, 2013, 02:09:13 PM »

Frank, I would be interested in a set if there are any more spot available.

Also, for guys wanting the weld in solution is there any reason these wont work?
http://camburg.com/store/fabrication-parts/billet-tube-clamps/
Not sure what the wall thickness is for a cb frame... Something to look into?

slikwilli420 · « **Reply #170 on:** December 15, 2013, 06:26:52 PM »

Also interested in the question about frame rail wall thickness. There are some great choices for interlocking tube clamps that would be perfect for the job.

KrautKoffin · « **Reply #171 on:** December 15, 2013, 06:52:08 PM »

I'm in for one frank

Carver · « **Reply #172 on:** December 15, 2013, 10:37:35 PM »

So if I read right you can keep the stock ignition bracket location and triangle with this kit?

Don R · « **Reply #173 on:** December 15, 2013, 10:50:30 PM »

I haven't mic'd it but the next size smaller .058 chrome moly slips inside and the next larger slips over. I'm guessing it's .058 also. If someone was concerned about the tube crimping a bit of moly tube could be slipped inside and would be very light weight. .

KrautKoffin · « **Reply #174 on:** December 26, 2013, 09:15:18 PM »

What's the word on these? Also, can you confirm these work on a k7?

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Author Topic: Frame mod cb 750 (Read 77803 times)

Black 750K8

Black 750K8