Topic: for those who did rearsets with drum brakes

[shizzomynizzo]

I know I have seen a few pics on different threads with the stock drum and modern rearsets.

A few have bent the brake rod to clear the shocks (550). How does this hold up? and did you use the stock rod or adapt a new, thicker rod?

[Triffecpa]

I bolt or weld a piece of strap to the brake pedal and then bend it into an S bend so that I can use a straight pull on the rod.  I usually rotate the actuator arm 180 degrees so that it sticks above the axle rather than below.

Does it work?  How well does your rear drum brake work anyway?    It passes tech and I don't ever use the rear brake anyway.

Tracy

[shizzomynizzo]

Yeah, I planned on flipping up the actuator arm. I am going to take your idea with the strap and s shape except I am going to use a long strip of aluminum as the rod, and do away with that all together. I know I've seen different size sticks of aluminum bar with the steel rods at homo depot.

As far as adjustment goes, I just ordered an adjustable clevis from '€midwest control".

Thanks for the info and pics.

I'll post some when I finish it up.

[Triffecpa]

in this configuration, the rod works in the "pull" mode, so the size of the rod isn't that important especially if it's straight.

TR

[paulages]

i just converted mine to cable-actuated. easier to move the rearsets wherever you want them, and like tracy i never really use my rear brake anyway.

[voxonda]

i just converted mine to cable-actuated. easier to move the rearsets wherever you want them, and like tracy i never really use my rear brake anyway.
.....................................................

+1, did mine too, think it looks much nicer too.


Rob

[Gamma]

OK Paulages and VOX where can I get the cable?

[gtyler5]

here is how i did mine on my 750.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.editAlbumPhoto&albumID=1501832&imageID=29005965

[Alan F.]

OK Paulages and VOX where can I get the cable?

Looks a bit like a clutch cable from a small car.

[754]

CB 160 uses cable as did many others.
 CB 160 is a hot class right now, so cables should be easy to find...

[shizzomynizzo]

I wanted to do the cable, I saw it on a yamaha forum and it does look really clean. I dont have access to a welder and I'm trying to keep everything on the bike "removable". Just so if I ever wanted to turn it back to stock and do a resto.

BUT...if I do decide to go with the cable...

where the cable is hooked up at the drum (not to the actual actuator, but where the cable is "seated"), did you guys cut it off another bike's drum and weld it on, or did you just fab one up?

Where do you source a cable, will any motorcycle rear drum cable work? (cb160, yamaha, etc...)

[754]

I see what you mean, I could maybe make a bolt-on piece.

 looks like the 500 is easier to mount to than a 750, talking about in the down position..

[paulages]

OK Paulages and VOX where can I get the cable?

mine is actually a clutch cable (cb550) shortened and re-soldered with adjusters at both ends. the only difficult part was welding the cable stay onto the backing plate (cut from a scrap cb350 hub), but an easier solution is to just use the 350T rear hub. if TurboGuzzi doesn't pipe in, search for his 500/4. he did this and used a subaru hill holder cable.

[voxonda]

I welded a aluminium threaded piece on my backplate, and shortened the actuator arm. Use the cable of a honda off-road bike, can't remember which one now and shortened it. Adjusters on both ends. You could do without the welding and mount the threaded piece on the bolt rom the reaction arm. Then you don't have to shorten the arm.

Depends on what you want, imho with the welding looks a bit more pro.

rob

[JRK5892]

well... all of my stuff i made. i took a set of GSXR rear sets and made brackets to have them work then got some steel round stock, polished it and bent that to work as an arm.  i then blasted and powder coated everything