Author Topic: Case and block restoration  (Read 1998 times)

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Offline dragracer

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Case and block restoration
« on: December 25, 2009, 08:14:44 PM »
I'm about to pull the motor off my 78' CB750K to fix a 3rd gear problem. The bike has been sitting for a long time and the motor looks very bad from the dulled out/flaking o finish on the cases, block and valve cover. Even the front forks look tarnished. I want to refurbish the external look of the motor. What method should i use to get the cases etc... looking like new again?????????

I'm sure there's already a thread on this board someplace so please don't tear me a new one- i just need a quick answer.

Thanks guys.

Offline Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #1 on: December 25, 2009, 10:48:54 PM »
The cases and block were painted originally. If it were me and I had the engine apart I'd bead blast the cases and block then paint them or (more expensive!) take them to the powder coater and let him prep and LIGHTLY coat them. My guy says he knows how to properly do air cooled motorcycle engines. He does many Harley engine parts. The valve cover and fork fork legs were slightly polished and clear coated originally. I don't think re-clear coating them after clean up/polish has worked well but that's one option. Then again the powder coater can work wonders here too. I took my front end apart due to a caliper leak of DOT3 fluid and I had my fork lowers powder coated with a silver metallic and they came out really nice. They should stay much nicer than the original especially since I'm now using DOT5. They can do clear powder coat too.

I'll be sending out the valve cover and pieces to Brown's Plating in Paducah, KY for show quality chroming. ~ $300. My avatar shows a Brown's chrome valve cover from the late 70's! Still nice but they tell me they have a better process these days.

Time and money, that's all....................
« Last Edit: December 25, 2009, 10:50:55 PM by Jerry Rxman Griffin »
As of today 3/13/2012 my original owner 75 CB750F has made it through 3 wives, er EX-wives. Free at last.  ;-)

Offline mystic_1

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2009, 06:40:10 AM »
Choice of paint is important if you choose to repaint them.  No paint from a spraycan will stand up to fuel all that well, most of it will wash right off in a heartbeat at the first touch of gas.  Clear coats, even the stuff called "engine enamel" usually turns yellow from the heat fairly soon.  The factory paint was very durable but I'm sure that EPA regs mean than you can't get anything similar.  A two-part engine paint should hold up fairly well.  Also some have reported good results with Rustoleum barbecue paint but I've never tried it myself. 

You could polish the engine but then you're looking at constant re-polishing to keep it from oxidizing.

mystic_1
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traveler

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2009, 08:05:05 AM »
It'll be interesteing to see how the Duplicolor engine paint that everyone on here is using holds up. :-\

~Joe

Offline mystic_1

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2009, 08:07:51 AM »
Duplicolor paints are NOT fuel resistant, even when heat-cured.  Did a bunch of testing on scrap tappet covers last summer.  May have to go back and re-test those as it's been a few months now and they'll have cured up a bit more, but most Duplicolor paints I tried (engine paint and caliper paint) dissolved in fuel quite rapidly even after baking.

mystic_1
"A ship in harbor is safe, but that is not what ships are built for."
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Offline somesuch

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2009, 09:54:14 AM »
Duplicolor paints are NOT fuel resistant, even when heat-cured.  Did a bunch of testing on scrap tappet covers last summer.  May have to go back and re-test those as it's been a few months now and they'll have cured up a bit more, but most Duplicolor paints I tried (engine paint and caliper paint) dissolved in fuel quite rapidly even after baking.

mystic_1

One thing that surprised me about Duplicolor self etching primer (~olive color) is that brake and carb cleaners would not wash it off easily after just a few hours of air drying! I sprayed my tripleclamp without masking planning to just wipe it off later....it would not. In contrast their paint comes right off days later.

--Nick

Offline Terry in Australia

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #6 on: December 26, 2009, 09:11:38 PM »
Here's my 836cc racer engine I built over 2 years ago. Rather than risk damage to the expensive innards I didn't get the cases blasted, but rather, I thoroughly degreased everything, then again I cleaned up the cases with turpentine and "wet and dry" sandpaper to flatten the old paint, then etch primed them with a "zinc rich" etch primer, then painted with engine enamel.

Luckily I didn't get any fuel on it before the paint had time to "heat cure" when I fired the engine up for the first time, but since then I have spilt fuel on it a couple of times, with no problems, whatsoever.

The factory cases were primed and painted in a similar manner, but Honda was renknowned for using the absolute minimum of paint, (the rumor is that the early K series tanks were never primed, but rather Honda used the silver base coat in the "candy" paint as an undercoat) so it's not surprising that the OEM engine paint started to chip off so early in the bike's lives.

My advice is that as long as you spend plenty of time preparing your engine properly you don't need to get the cases blasted, but if you do, make sure you spend an hour or two cleaning every nook, cranny and internal thread to remove any grit with warm soapy water and brushes, bottle brushes, pipe cleaners etc, and flush it several times, or there's a good chance you'll be rebuilding it again real soon............ Cheers, Terry. ;D   
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Offline BobbyR

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #7 on: December 26, 2009, 09:56:35 PM »
When I did mine. The barrels can just be sanded or wire brushed. Enamel paints that have been allowed to dry don;t get eaten by fuel. I had some pool for a week near the starter cover and nothing. Some of the hi temp paints are very silvery at first but they will gray down to original over time. As Terry said, why make extra work and put your motor at risk with abrasives.
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traveler

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Re: Case and block restoration
« Reply #8 on: December 29, 2009, 05:45:18 PM »
Well, the clod that painted my motor last did a really bad job....damn! >:(

~Joe