Topic: Using the Oven to Cure Paint?

[Johnie]

I primed the battery box, tool tray and some other items. Tomorrow I will be painting with Rust-Oleum. I saw a topic a bit ago about putting them in the oven to cure for like 45 minutes at around 100 degrees. Is that what you guys do to get a nice hard paint job? Sound about right for the temperature and duration?

[Industrial Cafe]

I use hi-temp paint. 24 hours after the paint was applied I put my parts in an oven at 180-200 for 20 minutes.

[Johnie]

I use hi-temp paint. 24 hours after the paint was applied I put my parts in an oven at 180-200 for 20 minutes.

Wow, that seems hot but you know more about it than me. I am just getting some feedback here to know what I should do. The reason I ask is the last time I painted when I put the tool tray bolts on the paint chipped a little. I thought if I put it in the oven it may help it harden better. I did strip the part, cleaned it with thinner & primed. So I think I went through the steps correct, just did not heat it.

[Industrial Cafe]

try sandblasting your parts before painting.

[domer]

this is from another forum but has some damn good rattle can info. if you read through it they battle over what kind of paints to go with too... helped me a lot
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=10993.0

[YogiBear]

I primed the battery box, tool tray and some other items. Tomorrow I will be painting with Rust-Oleum. I saw a topic a bit ago about putting them in the oven to cure for like 45 minutes at around 100 degrees. Is that what you guys do to get a nice hard paint job? Sound about right for the temperature and duration?

yep, my Brother and I just got done painting my rear rim for my CB500 project and cured it in the oven. We put it in for 30-35 min at 200 degrees (ovens lowest setting) and it came out beautiful. We did it for all stages: primer, paint, and clear. We watched it carefully though to make sure it didnt bubble, we opened the oven door every once in a while to make sure.

[mystic_1]

try sandblasting your parts before painting.

+1

If you don't rough up the surface ("give it tooth") then adhesion will be poor no matter how hard your paint is.

mystic_1

[Johnie]

try sandblasting your parts before painting.

+1

If you don't rough up the surface ("give it tooth") then adhesion will be poor no matter how hard your paint is.

mystic_1

Can I rough it up once the primer is on? Would the wire wheel rough it up enough? I took all the old paint off with the wire wheel.

[mystic_1]

Depends on how coarse of a wire wheel you used.  You don't want a shiny smooth surface.  I sand with like 400 grit for this purpose as I don't own a sandblaster.

mystic_1

[Hinomaru]

I've had good results baking some 750 K4 parts using VHT gloss black engine enamel. It's designed to be cured by heat for best results. After it dries to the touch, bake at 200 degrees for 20-30 minutes. So far I've done the chainguard, lower fork tree, battery box, tool tray and engine mounting plates. The better the prep - the better the results, such as media blasting. Using engine enamel on non-engine parts may be considered overkill, but it holds up extremely well.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/engineenamel.html

I can't vouch for the other VHT engine enamel colors because I haven't tried them.

[ekpent]

Hey Johnie with that oil based Rustoleum I think I would def experiment first on something other than your part. For some reason I can see that paint maybe going soft in the heat 

[Johnie]

All excellent points and much appreciated. I do have a can of Dupli-Color ceramic engine enamel high temp 500 degree and another 1200 degree gloss black on hand. Maybe those are what I should use instead of the standard Rust-Oleum.

Then do you bake those in the over after each coat or after the 2nd coat?
Then 200 degrees for 20-30 minutes per hinomaru's post?
And is a clear coat or 2 recommended?

[Patrick]

100 degrees isn't going to harden your paint much, Johnnie. Everything painted in Texas in the summer (unless it is done in an air conditioned room) cures at 100 degrees or more for several hours at a time and for many days sequentially. I know 100 in Wisconsin is considered ungodly, unnaturally hot, but down here we call that "daytime."  Still has to set for two-three months before it gets really hard. I at least double that when I heat treat paint.

Patrick

[Toxic]

With the Duplicolor Engine Enamel that is good to 500 degrees, I cycled it 4 times to 250 and let is cool down between cycles.

This was for my Alt cover, Tran cover and a couple of other small bits.

Then I, of course, dropped the tran cover from a height of 2 feet onto the garage floor.
Not a scratch on it.  Tough stuff.

I also pre-heat my stuff to about 80-90 degrees before painting and I find it makes a difference.

More than anything read the paint directions and follow them to the letter. ESP concerning drying time and time between coats.

And don't mix paint brands.  They don't always get along together.

[bucky katt]

dont use the same oven you cook your food in. smells bad and i still have the lump on my head from the wife from when i baked my chain guard

[thrutheframe]

dont use the same oven you cook your food in. smells bad and i still have the lump on my head from the wife from when i baked my chain guard

I baked a bunch of parts in my oven at home and didnt have any problem with it making the food taste bad.  It does smell up the house real bad.  I do not have a woman around to convince me that it will do that to the oven by hitting me on my head with a blunt instrument.

[nccb]

I emailed VHT about and VOC's that might be emitted when you bake in an oven, they just responded they don't recommend it.  Nevertheless, I put my caliper in the oven after it cured for a couple of days    I didn't have anywhere else to do it.  Was thinking the grill but even on low that thing is at 400.

[matt mattison]

It's not so much the smell as it is the brain damage, etc.

[70CB750]

I bake small parts in the oven @ 200 or so for an hour. The only way to accelerate the drying during winter. 

[thrutheframe]

It's not so much the smell as it is the brain damage, etc.

Ventilation, it's a heck of a concept.

[govnor]

I imagine you'd have to open all of your windows because of the smell.  I painted a few engine parts on one of my cars a couple months back.  I let them sit in the garage and in direct sunlight when possible for about three days and it worked out great.  That even worked with the wrinkle paint on a valve cover.  I thought about using the oven, but my wife said no.

[purf_man]

I would not heat between coats unless I scuff the basecoat with something like a scotchbrite pad or similar.  Keeping it soft (IE full of some solvents) will allow the next coat to bond into it.  Kinda like how you recoat stuff before it cures but allow a flash time to get alot of the VOC's out so it dries in a reasonable amount of time.

[Kickstart]

So, I was reading through this thread and couldn't help but notice the post dates....

thrutheframe, I have a bad feeling Bucky Batt's wife caught him trying to cure another bike part in the oven.  He hasn't been back to forums in over 2 years.   

[nccb]

haha, didn't notice this

[thrutheframe]

  Last night used my oven to cure a set of HD EVO heads.  Today I used the same oven to warm up naan and a veggie samosa.

[70CB750]

How about the wife finding elements of Lee Enfield in the dishwasher - helps with cosmoline and general clean up when restoring rifles.

That was a happy moment