Author Topic: Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled  (Read 5851 times)

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Offline KB02

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Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled
« on: January 07, 2010, 02:41:39 PM »
Instead of doing a complete hijack of someone else's thread, figured I would start my own.

The parent thread:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=63696.0

Where my hijack comes into play:
I've got the same issue on my 750. I'm waiting for the replacement parts to arrive. By the way, there are three flat screws that hold the assembly together. They are no longer available from Honda.

You do not have to remove those screws to replace the springs/cups/rollers. They just fall out once the rotor/clutch assy is removed from the crank.

So the parts actually came today (YAY! - it's only in the 20's but I've been working on the bike all day). I tried to take those screws out (did read your response until just now) and they are not coming out. IN fact, that actually twisted the bit from my impact driver (hard to see in the pic, but the tip is all twisted up):


How do I remove the parts without removing the plate on top of them? The caps and springs are obvious, but what about the rollers? Forgive me if it's obvious, but as stated above, I've been working in 20 degree weather all day and am finally getting the feeling back in my fingers.  :D
« Last Edit: March 15, 2010, 05:13:01 PM by KB02 »
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Offline MCRider

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2010, 03:05:44 PM »
Its been a while, but I know I've gotten them out without removing the clutch, for the same reason you've noticed, its a b--ch.  Maybe I'm dreaming...

(I've got one of those spiral impact tips too.)   ;D

I think just reach in with a screwdriver and pry them out? I'll have to go check in the shop.

I thought they just fell out.


PS: Just found the evidence. I have a rotor with the clutch still screwed on and no springs/caps/rollers in it. So they must have a little friction, but should come out with minimal prodding. Use a small screwdriver and little effort. If they don't come out easily, there may be a difference in our model years.?
« Last Edit: January 07, 2010, 03:22:53 PM by MCRider »
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Offline MRieck

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2010, 03:11:58 PM »
Its been a while, but I know I've gotten them out without removing the clutch, for the same reason you've noticed, its a b--ch.  Maybe I'm dreaming...

I think just reach in with a screwdriver and pry them out? I'll have to go check in the shop.

I thought they just fell out.
They do...or should.
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Offline MCRider

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2010, 03:24:35 PM »
Its been a while, but I know I've gotten them out without removing the clutch, for the same reason you've noticed, its a b--ch.  Maybe I'm dreaming...

I think just reach in with a screwdriver and pry them out? I'll have to go check in the shop.

I thought they just fell out.
They do...or should.
Thanks.
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2010, 03:26:04 PM »
So is it good or bad that mine haven't?  ::) ;D ;D

Thanks guys!
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Offline MCRider

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2010, 03:28:23 PM »
So is it good or bad that mine haven't?  ::) ;D ;D

Thanks guys!
I think there is some minimal friction. Better that they didn't fall out and get lost.  :D

Also, if there is some friction going back in that would be good. I couldn't remember how I re-installed the rotor cuz if they actually "fell out" it would be hard to get them back in the clutch and back on the crank without them "falling out" again.
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2010, 02:07:32 PM »


So the springs and rollers are replaced. I am almost wondering, though, if it wasn't a needed repair. If you look at the pictures, the rollers are under the top plate in the same area as a small hole in the plate. One of these areas was bent just a touch. Where the other two rollers were free to slide back and forth without much effort, the third was rather stiff. I carefully pried it up just enough to free up the roller. Makes me wonder if that might not have been the cause. The springs (new and old) appeared to be the same length. What do you all think?
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Offline Terry in Australia

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2010, 02:52:38 PM »
What was the original problem mate? Noisy starter clutch, or starter clutch not engaging? If your rollers looked to be in prety good condition, there was probably nothing wrong with them, the springs only apply light pressure but can break up (I just replaced the ones on my Laverda and they were buggared) but the biggest problem with Honda starter clutches is the crappy OEM screws getting loose and causing it to "howl". Buy some good 8mm CS unbrako's and replace the OEM screws and the SC will last another 30 or so years. Cheers, Terry. ;D
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Offline mystic_1

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2010, 09:29:17 PM »
but the biggest problem with Honda starter clutches is the crappy OEM screws getting loose and causing it to "howl". Buy some good 8mm CS unbrako's and replace the OEM screws and the SC will last another 30 or so years. Cheers, Terry. ;D

Oh is THAT what causes that noise?!?!?  My wife's old 350 made that noise intermittantly but always started reliably.  We never did figure out the source, she kicked it most of the time anyway :)

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Offline Terry in Australia

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2010, 11:38:39 PM »
Yeah mate, I'd like to take the credit for this "discovery" but it was Clyde in Sydney who diagnosed the problem for me a few years ago. Not hard to fix when you know what's wrong. Cheers, Terry. ;D
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Offline 754

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #10 on: January 11, 2010, 09:09:06 AM »
Sounds like your whole problem may have just been, a slight dent in your tin cover over 1 roller... :(

 A trick here I learned from a Laverda guy.. when taking these rotors off and moving them about.. cut a cardboard disc, slightly bigger than the shoulder of the starter gear.. now press it in to hold the roller! Now tey and the springs, stay in till assembly!

 When I would lighten a rotor, I drill the heads of the screws right off, then turn out the rest, then drill the threaded hole out , to at least 1/2 or more, if you are energetic, do 3 more.. should remove more weight without affecting charging..
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter problems - hijack thread - Problem not fixed...
« Reply #11 on: March 11, 2010, 04:58:33 AM »
I was finally able to to get the bike ready for a start up again and my starter problem is still not fixed.  >:( >:( >:(

If anything the problem is worse. Previously, the starter would catch on occasion and spin the engine, now I get nothing but a spinning starter.

AND, to make the problem worse, as I was kicking the engine to try and get it started, my kicker would, on occasion, feel like it was skipping a gear. I get a nice loud snapping sound AND the kicker return is not what it sound be. it will come most of the way back to the top, but require a manual push to get all the way up, or it will just not return at all.

I'm about ready to give up, you know?  :P :(
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2010, 05:22:34 AM »
Okay. I've calmed down a bit about the whole starter issue. Now I need some other cool heads to help me reason this out.

- Starter spins. You can hear it whirring away in the motor.
- Starter clutch has new springs and rollers (Caps were all in good shape and astronomically priced, so I didn't replace them).
- Are the starters rebuildable?
- Is it possible that the starter is broken internally?
  - If broken internally, why/how would it catch sometimes?

How does the starter actually work? I mean the mechanics of it. Our starters don't kick out the starting head like others do. Does the starter just get spun by the turning engine once the engine is running?

I think my next step will be to pull the starter out, disassemble it and make sure that is not the issue. I just looked on ebay and saw starters from $1.50 for used up to $130 for a new (aftermarket) one.

Could it be the starter clutch gear? Does the ares the rollers hit have to be smooth, or should it be roughed up to get a better grip?

Help me out guys and gals. I'm basically working for the next week and a half straight. I need some fresh ideas to hit this thing with as soon as I can get back out in the garage. I have been planning on taking this bike to a rally in June. At this point, I don't know if it's going to make it.
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Offline mystic_1

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2010, 06:11:47 AM »
How does the starter actually work? I mean the mechanics of it. Our starters don't kick out the starting head like others do. Does the starter just get spun by the turning engine once the engine is running?

Nope, that's what the starter clutch behind the alternator is for.  The starter can spin the engine, but the engine can't spin the starter.

On an automotive starter that "kick out the starting head" there is also a one-way roller arrangement called the "bendix" by many people that performs the same function as our starter clutches.  It's quite a bit smaller than ours and on the starter itself rather than on the engine.

- Starter spins. You can hear it whirring away in the motor.

That usually means that everything fine with the starter motor themselves.  Inspect the gear on the starter motor to make sure it isn't missing, have broken teeth, etc.

Yes it's rebuildable, you can replace the commuter brushes (carbon brushes) and other internal parts, but that's usually to fix a weak starter, or one that doesn't spin, not one that slips.

Could it be the starter clutch gear? Does the ares the rollers hit have to be smooth, or should it be roughed up to get a better grip?

I just looked at mine and the surface finish on the starter gear where the rollers touch, is your "standard" finish for contact points on a rotating assembly.  In other words it looks just like the journals on the crankshaft, the camshaft, transmission shafts, etc.

It's a very smooth surface with a bright finish, not a mirror polish but certainly not "rough" in any way.


So, the layout of the overall system is as follows:

( from http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb750k-750-four-k-78-us_model7244/partslist/E++10.html )

(Click for larger view)

The gear on the end of the starter engages the fine-pitched (inner) teeth on the intermediate gear #3 near the top of the image.

The coarser teeth on the intermediate gear engage with the large outer teeth on the main starter gear #6.

The starter clutch rollers (#19) rest within tapered grooves in the starter clutch body (#7) which is bolted to the back of the alternator rotor (#11).  The springs and caps (#8, #9) keep the rollers pushed towards the deepest end of their grooves.

As the starter gear rolls (in a forward direction, or counterclockwise as viewed from the alternator side of the crank), the large starter clutch rollers roll in their slots, which become shallower.  Thus, the rollers try to move inward toward the starter gear.  This inward pressure causes the rollers to grip the starter gear, transmitting force from the gear through the rollers into the starter clutch body which is bolted firmly to the alternator rotor which is bolted to the end of the crankshaft. 

Crank spins, bike starts.

When the engine fires, and the speed of the crankshaft exceeds the speed of the starter gear, the clutch rollers roll in the opposite direction in their slots, back to the deep ends.  This releases the griping pressure and thus the starter system disengages from teh crank.


So, there are several places where slipping could occur that would result in the starter spinning but not turning the crank:

between the starter and the intermediate gear,
between the intermediate gear and the starter gear,
between the starter gear and the starter clutch,
between the starter clutch and the alternator rotor (unlikely!)
between the alternator rotor and the crank (unlikely!)

When you rebuilt the starter clutch, you should have been able to test it by trying to turn the starter gear on the crank.  It should spin freely in one direction but not at all in the opposite direction.  Was this the case?

Next, are you sure you re-installed the intermediate gear properly?

Third, have you had the starter out of the motor?  How did it look?

With the starter out of the motor, you should be able to look into the hole in the starter cavity and see the intermediate gear.  Reach in and try to turn it.  It should spin in one direction but not the other.  If it spins in both directions, the problem is in the gearing or the clutch and not the starter.

I suppose that in theory, the starter clutch housing could sheer of the back of the alternator rotor, or the rotor itself could be loose and spinning on it's taper on the crank, but you'd likely have noticed either one of these problems and they don't seem to be common failures at all (ie I've never seen them).


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« Last Edit: March 13, 2010, 06:21:02 AM by mystic_1 »
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #14 on: March 14, 2010, 05:01:24 AM »
Thank You. Great info.

The starter itself looked great when I had it out (full engine tear down). All the teeth on all three (four) gears looked fine (no missing teeth) and the starter gear would spin free in one direction and would not spin at all in the other direction, so I think I'm good to go there.


Throwing something out here - What if I didn't tighten the rotor to the crank with the proper torque? Would that allow for spin of everything but the crank? Don't know if this is the case (I think I torqued it down right) but even if it is, isn't the rotor keyed to stay in place? (Can't remember and I can't see either way in the schematics.)
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Offline City Boy

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #15 on: March 14, 2010, 12:06:49 PM »
Hi KB.The rotor must be properly tightened or it will spin on the crank.It is a taper fit with no locating pin.    Rock On
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Offline MCRider

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #16 on: March 14, 2010, 12:14:23 PM »
Hi KB.The rotor must be properly tightened or it will spin on the crank.It is a taper fit with no locating pin.    Rock On
CityBoy is keerect, there is no keyway between the crank and the rotor. It is a pressfit to a taper. So if its not hella tight it will spin, and the crank won't.

Such taper fits are very efficient, if the torque is correct, the rotor becomes as one with the crank, and doesn't then require a key. It is so much as one that on the early models (pre K3 or so) the rotor could actually twist the end of the crank off from aggressive downshifting.
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #17 on: March 15, 2010, 04:52:58 AM »
If I have time after work tonight, I'm going to try and pop the rotor cover off (while attempting not to spill too much oil) so that I can at least check out all the gearing and double check the torque on the rotor.

We'll go from there...
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Offline MCRider

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Re: Starter clutch problems - hijack thread...
« Reply #18 on: March 15, 2010, 05:47:38 AM »
If I have time after work tonight, I'm going to try and pop the rotor cover off (while attempting not to spill too much oil) so that I can at least check out all the gearing and double check the torque on the rotor.

We'll go from there...
Put a shim under the left side of the centerstand to make the bike lean to the right...as far as you dare. Be careful though. That will minimize the spillage.
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Offline KB02

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RE: Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled
« Reply #19 on: March 15, 2010, 05:12:46 PM »
Admittedly, I was prepared to call myself an idiot. It had been a couple months since I had put the engine back together and I honestly couldn't remember torquing down the rotor bolt. After looking in the manual to get the proper torque value, I KNEW I hadn't torqued it down. 73 ft/lbs is a hard number to forget.
With the bike propped to the right, I unbolted the rotor cover and found that the rotor bolt wasn't even hand tight anymore and that the rotor even had a little bit of in-out play. I thought I had found my problem. After taking about 45 minutes to find a way to stop the engine from turning as I tried to torque the rotor, I finally managed to get it to the proper torque spec, buttoned up the engine, and uprighted the bike.
Next the bike was backed out of the garage, fuel turned on, choke pulled, key switched and starter thumbed. The engine rumbled as it tried to start after sitting for a long cold winter of being partly disassembled. A few pops and then.....

.....spiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnnnnnn.........

What the heck?

Back in the garage. Propped back to the right. Rotor cover off. Rotor bolt had backed itself out. -????-

After looking it all over, there was some old oil in the back of the bolt housing. I assume since there is a drain hole that this wouldn't be causing the issue (hydro lock?). I cleaned out the hole as best as I could and reinstalled everything. Torquing went much quicker as I knew how to do it this time. Button everything back up again and tried again.

Rumble, rumble, Pop. Rumble, rumble, backfire. Rumble, rumble, ssspppiiiiinnnnnnn.....

At that point I said I was going inside and that I would fight with it again later. I was hungry, the dog was lonely, and I was getting frustrated.


Now what?

Help me reason this out. If the bolt was torqued down to the proper spec, why was it backing itself out? I shouldn't have to use thread sealer on this should I? And even if I am, I doubt I would see such an immediate failure like this, would I?
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Offline City Boy

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Re: Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled
« Reply #20 on: March 16, 2010, 04:24:15 AM »
Well KB,that's a stumper!Is the rotor bolt the correct one?Is it perhaps bottoming out before locking rotor?I don't feel that thread lock should be required;I have never used it on that bolt.The bolt on my '70 has a nylon plug pressed in the thread area that I assume is there to act as a locking device.I am not sure if your's will have this as it may have been deleted at some point in the production run.Are you able to post a pic of your bolt?    Rock On
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled
« Reply #21 on: March 16, 2010, 05:01:09 AM »
I think that plug you're talking about has been removed in later year model 750's. I know the rotor is different as is the bolt that holds it on.

As for my bolt, it looks to be in great shape. I thought about the bottoming out, too. Possible I suppose. The PO never did tell me why he parked it.

Again, If I have time and daylight after I get home from work, I'll take another look and see what I can figure out.
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled
« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2010, 07:17:51 AM »
Is it possible that this bolt is stretched and needs to be replaced? Is it a one time use only bolt once it is torqued?
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled
« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2010, 03:44:29 PM »
Shots the offending equipment:

The bolt itself:


Inside the rotor:


The end of the crank:


I did my best to make sure there was no grease or oil on the end of the crank this, wiping them both down with degreaser. I even called Cycle-X to see if they have ever had this problem. Ken said that they never actually torque the bolt down. They hit it with an impact wrench and put a tiny, thin film of sleeve lock on and then a touch of thread lock. Well, all I had was the thread lock, so that's what I used. I'm going to let it sit overnight tonight (and possibly tomorrow as I will have a LONG and BUSY day tomorrow at work) and the I will try the starting process again.

Anything on the pictures that seems wrong or out of place?
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Offline KB02

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Re: Starter problems - take 3 - now truely baffled
« Reply #24 on: March 18, 2010, 04:21:21 AM »
Any ideas?

...

Anyone?
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