Topic: CB750 K4 Fork Boot Removal...

[sbparks]

Hi Folks,

 Continuing with my work.

 I tried to remove the boots from the forks.  I didn't want to scratch or mess the surface of the fork with tools, so I thought it best to ask... what's the best way to do this?

 I've got each fork completely separated from the triple clamp assembly.  The boot is still in place fastened at the bottom.

 I need to take it off.

Thanks, Scott

[Johnie]

By fork boots are you talking about the rubber gators or the fork ears that hold the head light in place. If you are talking fork ears then you have to remove the front wheel and slide the fork tubes out the bottom after you loosen the top and bottom fork bolt. Then you will be able to remove those fork ears.

[sbparks]

Hi John,

 Thanks for the reply.

 The rubber 'gators'.  Thanks.

Scott

[Gordon]

If the gaiters are old and hard, it helps to heat up the lip that goes over the fork bottom with a hair dryer or heat gun.  This will make it much more pliable, like they are when new. 

[Johnie]

That end is in a groove. I use a small screwdriver just to get the lip up. Then you can usually work it around the fork. I like the idea of a hair dryer to heat it up. That may make it more pliable for you.

[Simpson]

By fork boots are you talking about the rubber gators or the fork ears that hold the head light in place. If you are talking fork ears then you have to remove the front wheel and slide the fork tubes out the bottom after you loosen the top and bottom fork bolt. Then you will be able to remove those fork ears.

Don't forget to unscrew and disconnect the bottom brake hose. 

[sbparks]

 OK - Thanks for the ideas.

 I read the posts on fork seal removal.  This may be an interesting experience as I wanted to get everything taken part, cleaned, polished and then get a new set of seals installed.

 First things first... the gators must come off!

Scott

[Johnie]

Here is a little visual for you. You can see the lip on the top of the fork leg on the right. Should come off fine for you. The other pic is of the guts inside the fork leg from my KO. There is some nice info here about getting the fork apart. Many guys have problems getting the bottom hex bolt out which is located on the very bottom underside. A tip, crack that loose before you take the very top large fork bolt out that has the spring under it. You can click the pic to enlarge it.

[sbparks]

Johnie,

 Thanks for the pictures.  That helps quite a bit.  I am sure that I can remove the rubber boot without too much difficultly.

 Thanks also for the tips to disassemble the fork.  That's where all of this is headed for me.  I read some of the prior posts that describe the difficulties associated with removing the fork seals.  I already have two brand new seals.

 Do I need to remove the hex nuts at the bottom of the fork to move the parts out of the way that will eventually allow me to remove the seal?  Probably, I need to understand the order of disassembly.

 Looking at my new seals, I am not certain which side goes into the fork first.  I seem to be able to see a 'tension spring' that keeps the seal wipers tight against the sliding tube on *both* sides of the seal.  I can post a photo that we can talk to of that helps.

 Thanks for the 'guiding hands'!

Scott

[Johnie]

I know that can be confusing which side goes up. I am not sure what brand you have there, but here is a pic of the seal before I took it out of my K1. Maybe that will give you a visual. The 2nd pic is of my new Honda seals.

[sbparks]

 Thanks for the pictures.

 I have new Honda seals as well.  Does your picture show the top or bottom?

 Also, any comments or advice for the disassembly of the fork?

Scott

[Duke McDukiedook]

You may have to put the lower casing in a vise to get the allen bolt at the bottom unscrewed.

Just remember to put the lettering on the fork seal facing up.

If your boots are as old as the bike you might as well replace them, they will tear on you due to age, I just cut them up when I pulled them off. Might as weel replace them while you are doing this work the first time.

[Johnie]

Be sure you put some protection around the leg when you put it in the vise. And do not tighten to much you could squash the leg. As far as replacing the gators, take a close look at them and then decide. I have not had to replace any gators and I have the K0, K1 & K4. All are original and just needed a good cleaning with soap and warm water. Then I brightened them up with Armoral. Maybe I was just lucky, but the folds are perfect with no cracking. But if yours shows signs of wear then replace them.

[Johnie]

Scott...I happen to be rebuilding my K4 forks. Here is a picture of what you should see. The other pic I posted of the KO forks are different. So when you get it apart this is what you should have there. They will probably be some nasty crap on the bottom. I use a good carb spray cleaner and long soft brush to get the thing clean. Good luck on yours...

[sbparks]

Johnnie,

 Thanks for the pictures - Super helpful!

 I was able to completely dissasemble both forks yesterday (Hey, I knew what do to BEFORE I started, isn't that something new!).

 Yes, all apart and no damage.  The clips that hold the seals in place were really nasty - Rusted and all gunky.  But they're out.  Seals came out.  Not too difficult (I did use my MAPP gas torch.  That seemed to help).

 So, what now?... I need to polish the lower fork sections, clean the groove that held the seal clip (rust stains in this area) and I need to clean the section of the fork that was exposed up in the triple clamp area.  Very rough and some rust (the part under the headlight ears).  Once these parts are cleaned, I'll be able to re-assemble.

 I was going to have my headlight 'ears' rechromed, but I noticed some rust to the point where it has actually perforated the lower section of the fork ear tube.  What to do with this?  I see them available on 'e-pay' for $100 each.  Not sure yet.

 Oh yes, my fork boots (gators) are in nice shape.  I washed them and then hit them with peanut oil.  That seems to make them blacker and look new again (I did the same with my faded airbox).

 You guys sure have been a lot of help!

Scott

[Johnie]

The K3 & K4 fork ears have a tendancy to rust out in the spot you mentioned. I had to find some as mine were bent when I got the bike. I was lucky and found a cheap parts bike with 6,000 miles on it. Ears were not dented and not rusted. They are not cheap as I had been looking on eBay too. Don't get confused with the K2 ears which only have 1 hole in the the side. About all you can do is keep looking or post a in the wanted section of this board.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

I know this is digging up an old thread, but y'all seem to have the magic I'm looking for.

I'm pulling apart my 750K4 forks for a cleaning and to replace the oil seals.  The Honda shop manual says to remove the circlip (not easy, but done).  My Clymers adds to remove the 6mm Allen head bolt from the bottom (also done).  It's the next instruction that doesn't seem to work.  "Remove tube from bottom case".  When I try to separate the chrome tube from the aluminum bottom (case) by pulling, it feels pretty firm!  No movement at all.

What trick am I missing?  Does the top nut & spring need to come out first?  Does the old oil seal need to be removed first?  Live chicken sacrifice maybe?

Thanks in advance.

[ekpent]

Hey Bruce. Remove the large top nut and spring and when you remove the 6mm allen bolt on the bottom of the fork tube it should slide apart. You may have to slide the tube in and out a little like a slide hammer but should come off then you can dig the old seals out and start cleaning it up.Do it over something soft ,not concrete as a damper, or other part may be falling out of the bottom when it comes out. Have fun    Tip from "Save the Chickens Foundation"    One other tip to save a chicken,have an old wooden broom handle around with a little duct tape covered on the end and insert it into the fork tube when you go to tighten the allen nut back down on reassembly.

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Thanks Eric, I'll try 'er tonight. I saw some instructions on the SoCal web site that used a broom Handle but didn't explain why. I thought it was for the chicken!!