Author Topic: The bronze bushings (No luck)  (Read 7009 times)

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Offline 754

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Re: The bronze bushings (No luck)
« Reply #50 on: January 06, 2010, 08:04:24 PM »
If you have a 7/8 tap, you can tap them and use a bolt to help drive em out, wont be holding that hard tho..
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Offline Simpson

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Re: The bronze bushings (No luck)
« Reply #51 on: January 09, 2010, 02:23:48 PM »

They must be recessed 0.200"-0.220". This sets the compression distance for the felt grease seals, so they seal against water from the outside. This 'compression distance' is the distance between the inside of the phenolic end caps and the face of the bushing inside. If too tight, it will grind up the felt: if too loose, it won't seal water out.  ;)


Mine measured from orginal steel bushing .170-.190
After my assembly with bronze .200-.210
Guess I assembled to Hondaman spec.  :D
1970 CB750 K0
1975 CL/CB 360 Mix

Offline Yoshi823

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Re: The bronze bushings (No luck)
« Reply #52 on: January 10, 2010, 05:13:16 AM »
There was a company here in the UK that used to sell phosphur/bronze swing arm bushes that were an exact replica of the plastic items on my 750F2. I bought a pile of these & used them on a friends CBX1000Z as well as my wifes 550F2.They were simple to install & made a big differance to the CBX. Luckily this modification was done on the bikes when they were low mileage, so there was little if any corrosion or wear on parts that had been regularly greased.
As has been said, the use of just a hacksaw blade to cut out the old plastic items was the best way to remove them. While the arm is off it's a good time to clean out the old grease from the cavity & the zerk fitting. The seal on the end caps & the spacing shims should also be checked.
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