Topic: Internal handlebar wiring questions- CL350 (but probably applicable to anything)

[Frankenkit]

So... I got some NH-M bars.  Unfortunately, bars don't come pre-drilled, so I am left to decide whether to drill the expensive-to-me bars, limiting my choices as far as switch housing placement and bar angle, or modify my switch housings to run the wiring externally.

Personally I'd rather run the wiring externally, I don't think it'd be a bad look, necessarily, but I have yet to see any pictures on how people have notched the bottom half of the control housing to allow for wire pass-through.  I've read a few descriptions, but without actually seeing a picture, I'm still kind of lost.

Thanks

[James360]

On my 360 someone had busted the righthand combination switch/clutch lever housing so i bought another one, i tried seems like forever to pull the new switch wires through the 7/8 bar cussing honda for a long time for not at least making the bar 1 inch in dia. finnaly just gave up enlongated the bottom hole in the handle bars ran the wire out side the handle bar, you have to be looking close to even notice it.

Honda when they made the bike good chance they just put only the wires though the handlebars then attached the end connections.

[Frankenkit]

Yeah, I've already got the wires out and everything, I'm just trying to visualize how to notch/drill/modify the switch housing to allow me to route the wires on the outsides of the bars.  It seems that if I open it up from where the housing clamps onto the bar it would compromise the grip the housing would have on the bar itself- i.e. the levers might twist around the bars and move on me.  Pardon my ignorance, I'm just having issues with my imagination here.

[Frankenkit]

here's a little pic of the norman hyde m bars in question...

[James360]

As you can see your going to need to put it up close to the bar look at
making some clearance in the bar for the wire for short distance, don't cut into the housing, just sort of give the wire some room for maybe around and inch or more. mine already had the stock bar it was just a matter of me enlongating the hole already in the bar with my die grinder.

[James360]

here's a little pic of the norman hyde m bars in question...

I can't get this picture with whatever my computer setup is

[Frankenkit]

oops sorry.  This is one a lot like it, but mine has a bit more pullback.
It's like a very, very mild clubman bar.


More like these:

[James360]

My stock bars had a little bit of an indention in them that is there to lock
the swicth/throttle housing in on one position, another words its not just clamping force of the screws that keeps the thing from being able to twist to much. look at bottom side of your old factory bars you will see the indention.

[James360]

that second set with more pullback looks like it would be a comfortable
bar.

[James360]

I would like to replace my bars with something in a 2 inch rise with about a 5 inch pullback. this factory bars have some grooving in the center
where the clamps go most of the bars i see in 7/8 are just a smooth bar.

[Frankenkit]

yeah these are just smooth, too, which is why I'm looking to mod the housing. The chrome on the bars is so nice, I'd hate to screw it up by drilling holes and stuff... especially knowing how I like to move stuff around and how long it takes me to feel like I've got stuff "just right"

[James360]

The two bad curves in my factory bars made it hard to pull the wires
the new bars you have may be considerably easier to do. but once you drill holes they are there lol.

[Frankenkit]

Yeah, but the permanence of the holes in the nice new chrome bothers me. There are a few guides online for how to route wires internally but no pictures for how to route originally internal wires externally.  

[MickeyX]

Looking at the pods closer, we are thinking we could drill out the bottom, towards the inside of the pod, and go straight down with the wires and then maybe run them alongside the cables and down through the cable holder on the bars? It would help drain moisture too. Maybe?  We need to replace the sheath on the wires anyway so which ever color the new cables are, either gray or black, we can match it easily and keep it looking cleaner.

[Kilo1978]

You'll just have to be creative when deciding where to put the holes in the housings. I'd run the wires out the front of the housing by making a notch on the top, bottom, or both halves; right where they split apart. This way you could hide the wires under the lever perches and either tie them to the bars or the cables. I did this eons ago (17+ years) on my CB400F when I installed clubman bars. As you can see in the pics I cut a rectangular hole in the clutch housing lower and cut a triangular-shaped hole in each the upper and lower halves of the throttle housing (making a diamond when put together). I remember using nothing but a flat file. I also had to file down the locating pins inside the housing because I did not want to drill any holes in my new bars either. I've never had the levers slip on me. Good Luck guys 

[78whiteorbs]

Here is a cool little tip for you . I was amazed when I put new bars on my CX500 that controls are already factory external! No notching needed. Same  basic controls , kill switch, 7/8 bar throttle sleeve, horn blinker yada yada...and best of all there are about a million of these on feebay.  No notching , no drilling bars.  For me this was gold as my last bike a 75CB550 had internal wires and I was setting up clubmans which is to say in a word, torture, getting those 11 wires strung through the 120 degree kink. Yours would be pretty easy though compared . But feel free to spend less time on those controls using the 78-83 CX500 GL5oo controls!

[Frankenkit]

hmmmmm I'll have to consider that.   I have one or two extra CB650 control sets, but I'm wondering if they'd turn into a PITA  wiring-wise. I bet they'd hook right up.  The other thing though is that the stock controls are so small and streamlined for the 350, they just have a darn neat look to them.  Since the 350 isn't my daily rider I'll just take some time and ponder what'll work 'best' for awhile.  *shrug*  Still have some work to do on the carbs etc anyway.

[78whiteorbs]

You have a cool bike: This is one I want next! I found a 175cc  for like 500 bucks which ran great but I want at least a 350.
What year and color is yours Kit?

[Frankenkit]

Mine is a 72.  It's the red and white, but as the red tank needs repainted and some love, I'm going to put a fairly pristine 'spare' tank on that'll be black and white (same pattern as the red/white swoop) and go without the vented side covers (just rock the metal airbox cover with the little brass nubbie coming off the side) both for a more rugged look and to make darn sure no one steals my 350 side covers while I'm at school.  They'll go on when I have the red tank back in prime condition if I ever want to make the bike look more stock and showy.

[Fritz]

I have yet to see any pictures on how people have notched the bottom half of the control housing to allow for wire pass-through.  I've read a few descriptions, but without actually seeing a picture, I'm still kind of lost.

Don't know anything about the CL350 switches, but you might want to have a look at this:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=63051.msg686170#msg686170

[crazypj]

hmmmmm I'll have to consider that.   I have one or two extra CB650 control sets, but I'm wondering if they'd turn into a PITA  wiring-wise. I bet they'd hook right up. 

Yes they will, sorta.
 Only 'problem', the kill switch works 'backwards (has to be 'Off' to connect power to coils)
 
PJ

[78whiteorbs]

Good anti-theft ! A secret ignition kill switch is also nice!

[78whiteorbs]

One advisement as well, if you are running wires internally never cut the pod wires at the pods. Pull all the wires through and only cut them at the neck. Ask me how I know? 11 wires barely fit and 11 with heat shrink tubing do not fit at all so be carefull with them wire clippers.

[johnspeck]

i used a dremel, and made an opening on the right lower housing.  if you try and do it coming out of the bottom, you might find that the wires don't want to route that way.  here are some pics:



the wiring looks kinda bulky here, but it's pretty clean looking in person.  i took my time, and kept test fitting to see when it was a big enough opening that it wouldn't crimp the wires, but not so big that i'd worry about moisture getting in there.



for the left side housing, there's already a little hole on the bottom.  since i'm not using blinkers, i removed that part of the wiring and switch, and just routed the wire for the horn out and down the bar.





if you tighten up the housings well, they won't move around too bad (if you don't use locater dowels).

[Frankenkit]

sweet. thanks. that looks really smooth.

I just got done polishing mine to a chromey finish... just gotta get those holes made and some new sheathing on the wires and we're in business.