Topic: Phillips screw removal tools

[Hopper]

In addition, get ahold of some of this stuff. Has a very gritty texture to it. But it has worked many times for me.

Super Glue works too, in a pinch, as long as screw head and screwdriver are perfectly clean of oil and grease.

But a good quality impact driver works for me 99 out of 100 times.

[paul_bfree]

Hi guys, new to this forum just having bought a basket case 750.
Anyway, I sheared most of the casing screws (30 years corrosion, weakening metal in screw heads, and of course, not precise matching of the screwdriver head, meant I started shredding the heads.

Next attempt, I used the #2 Phillips bit in my electric, torque adjustable, reversing electric drill/driver. Keep pressure on the head (push hard into it) and with no torque slip (on drill setting), slowly bring on the speed (in reverse).  As the torque builds in the drill engine, you will hear the controller scream, and then the torque will be overcome and out she pops.

But, there were some screw heads remaining (sheared).
I bought a set of these wonderful screw extractors (see pics) a few months ago from Home Depot and put them to use. They are designed to drill a clearance hole (drill in reverse) and then use the other end to 'grab' the freshly drilled hole in the screw head (again, in reverse).  Using the drill speed control to apply torque, the extractor bites into the screw head, and hey presto, breaks the torque and out she comes.  Wonderfull.

I have already bought a set of SS hex head screws to replace these horrible Phillips head ones (that also means I don't need to clean them).

Have fun!

[demon78]

In the panoply of techniques and tools if you suspect your going to have a problem try the old method of whacking them with a brass drift and hammer not much force is needed just a short smart smack on the drift.
Bill the demon.

[Zaipai]

Hi guys, new to this forum just having bought a basket case 750.
Anyway, I sheared most of the casing screws (30 years corrosion, weakening metal in screw heads, and of course, not precise matching of the screwdriver head, meant I started shredding the heads.

Next attempt, I used the #2 Phillips bit in my electric, torque adjustable, reversing electric drill/driver. Keep pressure on the head (push hard into it) and with no torque slip (on drill setting), slowly bring on the speed (in reverse).  As the torque builds in the drill engine, you will hear the controller scream, and then the torque will be overcome and out she pops.

But, there were some screw heads remaining (sheared).
I bought a set of these wonderful screw extractors (see pics) a few months ago from Home Depot and put them to use. They are designed to drill a clearance hole (drill in reverse) and then use the other end to 'grab' the freshly drilled hole in the screw head (again, in reverse).  Using the drill speed control to apply torque, the extractor bites into the screw head, and hey presto, breaks the torque and out she comes.  Wonderfull.

I have already bought a set of SS hex head screws to replace these horrible Phillips head ones (that also means I don't need to clean them).

Have fun!

Yup they work great, I picked up mine at Lowes, not real expensive either. However I did have the smallest one break in the screw head after many successful removals. Perhaps it was fatigued not sure. I am getting another set they just work like gang busters.

.: Scott :.

[BR]

This will be my first post here on SOHC 4.  Just getting back into wrenching on bikes since running a shop in the mid and late 80's.
Hope this helps.

1. On stuck screws the first thing to do is give them a good tap with a dead blow ball peen hammer. This will help break the oxidation that exists between the steel screw and the aluminum casing. Sometimes this is all that is needed to free the screw. If the head is buggered up go ahead and hit it much harder with the same hammer and a good flat punch. this will actually make the screw head almost disappear with only a small looking phillips design left. then take your  (most likely #3) phillips bit and drive it into the screw. At that point you can use several methods to remove the screw. My first choice is a 3/8 air impact turned down to a low setting. The vibrations from the air impact will usually help to loosen the screw if it is still stuck.  At this point an impact driver also works well. Or just a 3/8 ratchet with the correct socket to fit your bit. You can push in on the ratchet just like applying the good pressure to the screwdriver as mentioned earlier in this thread.

Finally if all else fails and you break the screw off flush with the case and you don't have access to a welder to weld on a nut head filling the inside of the nut with weld, get yourself some lefthand drill bits. They saved me many times after breaking off bolts when our welder wasn't around. To use them drill a small pilot hole then reverse your drill and install a left hand drill bit just smaller than the bolt/screw to be removed and usually with the heat from drilling the bolt, the left hand drill bit will grab and the screw/bolt will back out on it's own.

Hope this helps!
And look for a build thread from me soon.

[Zaipai]

This will be my first post here on SOHC 4.  Just getting back into wrenching on bikes since running a shop in the mid and late 80's.
Hope this helps.

1. On stuck screws the first thing to do is give them a good tap with a dead blow ball peen hammer. This will help break the oxidation that exists between the steel screw and the aluminum casing. Sometimes this is all that is needed to free the screw. If the head is buggered up go ahead and hit it much harder with the same hammer and a good flat punch. this will actually make the screw head almost disappear with only a small looking phillips design left. then take your  (most likely #3) phillips bit and drive it into the screw. At that point you can use several methods to remove the screw. My first choice is a 3/8 air impact turned down to a low setting. The vibrations from the air impact will usually help to loosen the screw if it is still stuck.  At this point an impact driver also works well. Or just a 3/8 ratchet with the correct socket to fit your bit. You can push in on the ratchet just like applying the good pressure to the screwdriver as mentioned earlier in this thread.

Finally if all else fails and you break the screw off flush with the case and you don't have access to a welder to weld on a nut head filling the inside of the nut with weld, get yourself some lefthand drill bits. They saved me many times after breaking off bolts when our welder wasn't around. To use them drill a small pilot hole then reverse your drill and install a left hand drill bit just smaller than the bolt/screw to be removed and usually with the heat from drilling the bolt, the left hand drill bit will grab and the screw/bolt will back out on it's own.

Hope this helps!
And look for a build thread from me soon.

Great advice, I have some screws on my Suzuki I will try this on. Thanks for the write up..
.: Scott :.

[Rocker]

I bought one of those Harbor Freight impact drivers and the tip actually twisted instead of the screw loosening.  I don't think it was hardened.  And the rubber grip on the outside spun as well.

I took that crap tool back and bought one from Sears. The new one works great.

I have the Harbor Freight impact screwdriver and have had great luck with it. I just firmly seat the bit in the screw head, grip the driver tight, grab my mallet, and give it a good whack. The key is to hit it harder then you think you need to. 100% sucess rate thus far. Even on a bike that has sat outside for the last few years. Well worth the $5 in my opinion.

[23tbucket]

Mark and Mystic: You are correct.....The Japanese "Phillips" screw heads and their screwdrivers are different then what is available over the counter for almost all of us. I would like to find a set of the correct Japanese Phillips head tools for a 3/8" impact driver.........

[mrrch]

These pliers work GREAT for breaking loose those pesky carb float bowl screws.

They are tiny but have such aggressive teeth and unbelievable grip.
Try them and you won't be disappointed, they work great when some PO has stripped out the heads.
Part number is 5ACP from SnapOn

[Don 18]

Hey guys, I just picked up a set of Vessel JIS drivers from LevelChrome with striking cap and a hex on the shank for a wrench:
http://www.levelchrome.com/Vessel-930-Megadora-PH2x100-Phillips-2-Screwdriver-_p_233.html

I have no affiliation with the seller other than being a satisfied customer. If you order, use the coupon code "Levelchrome" for a discount.

Haven't had a chance to attack the case screws on the CB yet, but there is a night and day difference between the fit of these tips and a phillips bit in the fastener. Helps using the right tool for the job

Also saw that Vessel has an impact version as well but did not pick any up when I ordered the other drivers
http://www.levelchrome.com/Vessel-980-Megadora-Impacta-PH2x100-Phillips-2-Hand-Held-Impact-Screwdriver-_p_172.html

There is a whole thread on Garage Journal as well:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28491

Don

[Don 18]

Update on the Vessel JIS drivers --- they are great!

Removed some stuck and partially stripped case cover screws and rusted exhaust screws for a heat shield.  Got a ball pein hammer and tapped the driver into the screw.  Used my knee to apply pressure to keep the bit firmly in the screw and a wrench on the hex shaft. A quick snap of the wrench and they broke free. The real stubborn ones just needed a little heat. Well worth the $$

[Rgconner]

At that same site (Damn, I have to buy some of the other tools there, they are nice!)

they have these:

http://www.levelchrome.com/Engineer-PZ58-160mm-63-Screw-Gripping-Pliers_p_113.html

Gotta say, those look sweet!

[Markcb750]

Interesting bit on JIS screws.  Never thought to look in hobby shops for drivers.

http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/

[brewsky]

Best method yet, and I think I've tried them all....

Sears 1/2" drive hand impact chuck & #3 tip on air impact gun.

Easy on the trigger and keep inward pressure on the gun...

Just removed corroded oil pump and tried 3 different methods..

Sears hand impact and 2 1/2# hammer....no luck...

Vessel #3 impact screwdriver and same hammer...no luck...

Sears chuck on air gun....no problem...instant success and no screw damage