Topic: Sandcast Restoration - Done (for now)

[markb]

Dennis,
I see you're in Wisconsin.  Have you ever used Custom Plating Specialists in Brillion?  If you don't mind, who do you use for "Honda" chrome?
Mark

[754]

 Mark, I just looked thru page 4 & 5 , very nice build..

 Got to ask though, is the centrestand supposed to have the brace?, I know early ones did not have it..

[markb]

Hi 754,
Thanks.  Good eye.  This one is a later sandcast and as far as I know its the original center stand.  I hadn't heard that one before so I checked the SOOC site and according to it the ones without the brace were used on numbers 1-1120.  I learned something new.  I'll have to check my early one to see what it has. 
Thanks again,
Mark

[traveler]

It seems more and more that the EARLY Sandcasts were more prototypes than anything else.

~Joe

[fasturd]

7000 prototypes...lol.

At least they got it right!

[Old Scrambler]

Yes,,,,,,,,,,,,Terry does a good quality job........except he lost an unobtainable part for an early CL72........and its been longer than 2 years on a CL77 rim.  All else is great.  I grapped a handfull of handlebars to take along on one of my trips to his shop and did not check each one for straightness.  Good chrome should flex 9-degrees without cracking. His does!  He usually takes photos of each order.........so we are negotiating over the lost part. Fortunately I found another that does not have to be rechromed so I was not out any $$$.

[markb]

Yes,,,,,,,,,,,,Terry does a good quality job

Thanks Dennis.  I've used him twice and have been satisfied but its good to hear it from someone else too.

[markb]

It seems more and more that the EARLY Sandcasts were more prototypes than anything else.

Some of you guys are probably familier with this but here's an interesting link to a thread on the Sandcast Only Owners Club (SOOC) site.  It lists 86 differences between early and late sandcasts.  If you haven't checked out that site I would recommend doing so.
http://cb750sandcastonly.com/smf_forum/index.php?topic=217.0

[markb]

After my last session I realized after I put on the oil tank that I should get my wire harness on.  But first I’d like to repair it.  Overall it’s in pretty decent shape and a correct -040 harness but the sleeving is cracked on the section that goes to the headlight bucket, just like everyone else’s.  Taping doesn't look good and makes it less flexible too.


I searched and didn’t find anything on it so here’s what I did.  The original sleeve measured 16mm.  The only place I could find that size was from Vehicle Wiring Products in the UK.  Here’s a link if you're interested.  
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/sleeving/sleeving.php
The problem is to try to get all the wires through the sleeve without removing the connectors.  I thought about using heat shrink tubing but chose not to because I didn’t think it would be flexible enough and with the engine heat might over shrink and the original isn’t heat shrink.  First I removed the tape on the inside end of the old sleeve.


Then I cut away the old sleeve with a small wire cutter.  Here’s the harness with the old sleeve removed.


The plan is to use a wire to fish the harness wires through the sleeve one at a time.  The sleeve was 12” long.  The green ground wire splits and has two large connectors so this needs to be pulled through first.  I staggered the connectors so one was behind the other and used electricians tape to connect them to my fish wire and pulled them through.  I taped to the wire behind the connector so I wouldn’t try to pull the connector off of the wire.


I was concerned about being able to fish my wire back through the sleeve as it got full so I fished 2 of them through that were about 36” long.  That way I would always have a wire that I could pull my fish wire back through.  Here’s the first one through.  Then I did the big insulated female connectors and then the smaller ones and then the male connectors.


And here’s the finished harness.  My only objection is it’s not quite as shiny as original.  I might experiment with some Armor All or wax or something but it sure looks better than the old one and its very flexible.  It took me about an hour but I was taking my time and being careful.  I have another harness that I used as a model but I would recommend taking pictures and making sketches with measurements before you take the harness apart.  Before I put it back on the frame I’ll ring it out with an ohmmeter to make sure all the connectors are OK.


Sorry if I over did this.  Seems like a lot of page for a simple job.

[Magpie]

Very very nice. I'm glad you're way over there and I'm here when our bikes are done. 
Cliff.

[traveler]

some of that tire foam/"ultra black" I think? will shine it up.......it has more gloss than armor all.

~Joe

[markb]

Joe,
Good idea.  I'll give that a try.
Mark

[Old Scrambler]

Nice job on the harness..............If my harness sleeve is broken but still flexible I remove the forward part, then remove the tape at the junction and slide the remaining sleeve into position where it shows between the tank and bucket. Then I wrap the exposed wires with cloth tape and cover with plastic tape where it is hidden under the tank.  I do the same as you with pulling wires when you have to re-sleeve.  I sometimes pickup a new wireharness for cheap from another model just to get the sleeve.  Most of my work is with the silver-colored harnesses on the earlier models but will also apply to the black units.

Regarding getting your new sleeve to shine.....try various polishes on your leftovers to see which one works best. I have had good success with Armorall CLEANER as it softens the vinyl plastic and leaves a nice shine. It works great for cleaning and re-using old rubber bits like those small connector covers on the harness.

[754]

Mark when I had a sandcast, I read, reread, & read again the partsbook, became very familiar with it.. I think I found around 50 parts that were different (from late sandcast) on the under #600 one I had.

 Really is a big task to find all the rght stuff, if its missing..not like a lot of bikes, where every part fits..

 I think the c-stand number you listed for chamgeover is the same for when the frame changed to horn on other side..

[markb]

Mark when I had a sandcast, I read, reread, & read again the partsbook, became very familiar with it.. I think I found around 50 parts that were different (from late sandcast) on the under #600 one I had.

 Really is a big task to find all the rght stuff, if its missing..not like a lot of bikes, where every part fits..

 I think the c-stand number you listed for chamgeover is the same for when the frame changed to horn on other side..

It sure makes it challenging.  Of course that's half the fun, especially when you find a missing part?  Did you see my post #107 on this thread.  Pretty interesting.

[greenjeans]

Mark.....I think I'm in love.   Fantastic attention to detail.  My next project will be a complete restoration inspired by this thread.
Can't wait to see this beauty when it's done.

[markb]

Mark.....I think I'm in love.

Have you told her how you feel about her?   Seriously, thanks for the compliments.  Give me a heads up when you get started so I can follow along too.
Mark

[1080]

Hey markb
For your wiring harness repair on black plastic cover (first picture on #108). I would of trimmed both ends clean then slid the ends back together and used black tape or slip a short piece of heat shrink tubing over the cleaned trimmed pieces. Just another way of doing things

Any ways great job.

[Magpie]

Mark, that wiring looks so good I'm going to strip the shrink wrap I used off and go with some black tubing I've taken off a parts bike some time ago. You've shamed me into it. Great work buddy!
Cliff.

[markb]

Thanks Cliff.  That's a good idea too.  I tried some Armor All on my new section and it did add some shine so I'm pretty pleased, especially with how flexible it is.  I got the wire harness installed and then did the front brake oil lines before I put on the headlight bucket.  Then I took the oil tank off so I could get the rear brake switch and points wires connected.  After that I did the front turn signals and bucket, rear turn signals and ignition switch.  Everything's connected except in the bucket.  I'll finish that up when I put the gauges and handlebars on.  Forgot to take a pic but I'll take one next time I work on it.
Mark

[markb]

During the past week I got the master cylinder and caliper reassembled.  Yesterday (Saturday) I had all day to work on the bike.  I put in the battery, installed and adjusted the chain, adjusted the rear brake, put in the spark plugs, set the points and timing, mounted the controls and master cylinder on the handlebars and got the bars on and put on the front fender.  I also took care of some little details like the points cover, starter cover and gear shift lever.  Here's my progress to that point.  Ready to put on the front wheel and pipes but I can't do that on my cart. 


Here she is on the hoist.  I like having it up in the air rather than working on my knees putting on the pipes.


Here's my no number pipes still in the box from last summer.  Yamiya had been out of them for a while so when they came back I bought them right away.  I was to busy too put them on and then of course I decided to do the restoration over the winter so I never even looked at them.  No worries though, they look great.   


Here's where I ended up for the day.  Got the front wheel on and the two pipes on the left side.  I thought they looked good but when I looked at the pipes I saw the #1 pipe was about an 1/8" sway from the flange.  By that time I had 10 hours into it and I was just too tired to tackle it.  I have all day Sunday so I'll look at it in the morning.

[hoodellyhoo]

Lookin Good!

[Bob Wessner]

Looking very good! Nice work.

[traveler]

Looks like a brand new bike, Mark.....very nice.

~Joe

[markb]

Thanks for the compliments guys.  Helps to keep me motivated.  Had a little trouble with the #1 & 2 pipes.  I posted it on a separate thread if you want to check it out.  It was kinda weird.  
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=69134.msg764936#msg764936

But the other side went pretty good.  Then I tackled the airbox.  Here's a shot of it before I put it in.  Little bit of a wrestling match there too but I got it.
Edit: this airbox is a repro from LPM.


Then I tackled the seat.  I bought it from Yamiya last summer too.  Only I looked at it before now.  But I had a little surprise though, it has the 10-hole seat pan with the red foam.  I didn't think they were available from Yamiya any more.  I'm not sure if it's correct for this vintage sandcast but I know it is for my early one.


And its got the grey lettering.  Sweet.  I think that's good.  I'll have to check it out.

Edit:  After reading this part it kinda makes me sound like I don't know what I'm doing.  I'm still learning and when I bought the seat last summer I knew the red foam was desirable but I didn't know about the 10-hole/17-hole seat pan variation.  I recently checked Yamiya because this is the seat that I want for my early sandcast and they didn't have it but it looks like now they do again but its shows that it's sold out.  I'm confused but I'll figure it out. 

So I couldn't resist putting the tank and side covers on just to see how it looks.  Better than the babe thread, sorry Bobby.  I haven't put the cover badges on yet.  They've got a few scratches, I might have to pop for new Yamiya's.


Here's the whole picture.  Not done yet but its getting there.  I even sat on it and make vroom vroom noises.  Just kidding.