Author Topic: 76 750K this bike will change my life. (Read 173252 times)

Zaipai · « **Reply #175 on:** February 08, 2011, 04:43:29 AM »

Yea, time is one thing in short supply. Keep the GF happy and keep the grades up the rest will follow. It helped me some to put together a list and try and stick to it. I just let everyone out side work know I was going to be in the garage allot until spring. It worked however things come up.

The gauges sound great, I love the LED rings and its on my list along with the chrome bezels.

GL

Keep the posts coming..

.: Scott :.

greenjeans · « **Reply #176 on:** February 10, 2011, 06:46:08 AM »

Great build - I'll throw in my 2c.

I think your idea of titanium colored paint on the engine will look really good. * I would not paint the cylinders red - it will show dirt and grime more than
silver/titanium. I think you would have a great look if you painted them titanium and polished/file the fins so they are the bare aluminum colored.

I definitely agree with you on the color of the hubs - too much matchey matchey if you go with red. I usually don't think that the hubs "look right" when painted.
You could bead blast them or hit them with scotch brite or polish. Maybe paint the drum plates that titanium for some contrast.
You could also polish the outer hub where the spokes go - and media blast or scotch brite the plates for some contrast.

I like your idea for the headlight bucket. I've seen chrome ones and they always seem to fit the style of the bike.

If you are going to polish an oil tank, I'd definitely consider polishing all the aluminum engine covers. Always looks good.
But....bead blasted or scotch brite makes them look a bit "racier"

For the fork lowers - I agree with you on polishing them. Painted fork lowers seem out of place on these vintage machines. I polished all of my side covers and fork tubes, and hubs in one day with very little sanding or prep. I just cleaned the hell out of them and hit the buffer. It's a pain, but very rewarding.
I'll send you a link to the buffing wheels I used - they cut the time in half compared to wheels I used to use.
I get them from a place in Argyle (Buff, Polish, and Grind) They are very helpful and definitely know what they are doing when it comes to polishing.

Disc brakes - I might try that titanium color. Red will collect brake dust and look dingy pretty quickly. Titanium would hide dirt etc easier.

Caliper - black, titanium or polish or bead blast. Be careful with the red. The wheels and frame will be enough.

Anyway - great build. I'm up in Denton and would love to see it when you get it on the road.

wannabridin · « **Reply #177 on:** February 10, 2011, 04:23:27 PM »

thanks for that GJ! good advice for sure! i think the polished parts will now be the fork lowers, maybe the hubs and the engine cases. maybe the valve cover too!

i've ordered some more parts recently, including, all-in-one wiring switch from DCC : http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-streetfighter-motorcycle-parts-black-headlight-blinker-control-killswitch-12-0041b.html

also, a headlight visor, chrome headlight bucket, a Hondaman transistorized ignition box w/ resistor pack. i sent my crank out to APE to get it balanced, and they offered to lighten it, but i told em to meet me in the middle and just shave some weight off it so i could get some benefits from both sides (keep most of the flywheel effect, weight reduction and slightly quicker revs). i should be getting my parts back from MReick that i sent, rods for shot peening, balancing and F2 ends as well as rotor and piston balancing. he's almost done with the head, so that should be coming back soon too! hopefully Rob (voxonda) is close to being through with my other parts, so i should be getting the pre-load adjusters, motor mounts, case assembly dry clutch bearing (so i can install the clutch if the cases are already together) and an engine breather.

hopefully this weekend i can get to working on the frame some so i can get Little_Horse to start making a few parts for me! (oil tank, seat cowl, frame hoop, exhaust inserts among things) i've been so slow going with the start of school and everything that i'm starting to get frustrated!!

i have one final question. does anyone have any recommendations for a wiring harness that can include turn signals but isn't as bulky as the stock harness?? i've considered buying some lengths of different colored wire, but it's just as expensive as buying a repo harness from partsnmore or the like. thoughts??

wannabridin · « **Reply #178 on:** February 13, 2011, 07:07:07 PM »

woo!! got these beauties coming soon! thanks Anubis!! great service and price!!

wannabridin · « **Reply #179 on:** February 16, 2011, 06:26:58 PM »

ok, go i found some cool looking paint at the store, VHT Titanium Blue Metallic. it looked ok on the cap, but i don't think it will work. i'm probably going to go back and get the cast iron color from duplicolor, but what do you guys think of this?? i put it up against the virgin cases, and i think it's just too blue for me, especially contrasting against a red frame w/ white tins...

fastbroshi · « **Reply #180 on:** February 16, 2011, 07:32:24 PM »

I like it, but like you said don't think it'll go with your chosen red and white scheme.

Elan · « **Reply #181 on:** February 16, 2011, 07:53:15 PM »

Go with your gut, it you think it's too blue, you will always think its too blue!
Ps I agree with your gut!

Tintop · « **Reply #182 on:** February 16, 2011, 08:25:48 PM »

That's what I used for my engine, but the frame is grey, and main colour blue.

wannabridin · « **Reply #183 on:** February 16, 2011, 08:55:39 PM »

ya, TT, your color scheme looks great! i think the cast iron will give a nice compliment of the brightness of white, the "deepness" of the red and then the darkness of the dark gray! i'm basically going to paint everything that would be black or silver with the cast iron color, and maybe for a little bit of detail, do the inner ("inside" the spokes) of the hubs in a matching red from the frame! maybe even polish the raised edges!! i think that would look GOOD! do the inside of the brakes in cast iron, then the calipers in red.

how about this!??! go get the fork lowers, exhaust and valve cover done in the "polished" ceramic coating?? make take the chrome speedo housing and get it done too? i don't think it's plastic? if not, that chrome will match the gauge buckets and "beehive" tappet covers. then i'll leave the cylinders and head more "stock" silver and polish the edges still. this will provide a nice contrast without bring SO much attention to the engine like my initial thought of frame-matched red would...

MAN the little things eat up your mental time!!!

Tintop · « **Reply #184 on:** February 17, 2011, 03:00:35 PM »

Quote from: wannabINDUSTRIdin on February 16, 2011, 08:55:39 PM

ya, TT, your color scheme looks great! i think the cast iron will give a nice compliment of the brightness of white, the "deepness" of the red and then the darkness of the dark gray! i'm basically going to paint everything that would be black or silver with the cast iron color, and maybe for a little bit of detail, do the inner ("inside" the spokes) of the hubs in a matching red from the frame! maybe even polish the raised edges!! i think that would look GOOD! do the inside of the brakes in cast iron, then the calipers in red.

how about this!??! go get the fork lowers, exhaust and valve cover done in the "polished" ceramic coating?? make take the chrome speedo housing and get it done too? i don't think it's plastic? if not, that chrome will match the gauge buckets and "beehive" tappet covers. then i'll leave the cylinders and head more "stock" silver and polish the edges still. this will provide a nice contrast without bring SO much attention to the engine like my initial thought of frame-matched red would...

MAN the little things eat up your mental time!!!

+1

Free Booter · « **Reply #185 on:** February 23, 2011, 05:05:20 PM »

Wow...I think the Architect may have started a trend w/ the Cast Iron Duplicolor! HAHA! I got it from him and you got it from me...In about 20 years they'll be saying: "Remember when everybody used to paint their engines cast iron?"..."Yeah...that was the #$%*!"..."Why don't they do that anymore?"..."Yeah Cast Iron is vintage cool." LOL. I swear I think I saw another thread where someone else was gonna do it Cast Iron too! Stuff just goes well with other colors. I'm using mine with Red & Black.

I personally love it and The Architects' paint job seems to be holdin' up great despite its recent abuse...(guinea pig)...MUwahahahaha!

Still I kinda like the way that blue looks too. It would rock on a Blue or BLACK bike for sure. Maybe my next project.

wannabridin · « **Reply #186 on:** February 24, 2011, 11:56:04 AM »

so i got my brake rotors back, Hondaman ignition w/ resistor pack, handlebar controls, sprockets, chain and headlight in. i'll post pictures soon.

i need to figure out if i'm painting or powdercoating the major pieces yet. powdercoating would be longer lasting i feel, but i think if i can get a good quality paint job, it will save time and money. plus w/ pc, you need to have all the parts done at once, and i just need to start getting moving on some stuff! if i paint, i'll be using a ppg 2k aerosol system from my local paint supplier. follow that with some 2k clear, and i should be pretty good for everything, even the brake calipers!

thoughts on powder coating vs. painting?

wannabridin · « **Reply #187 on:** February 25, 2011, 12:16:31 PM »

ok, i decided on powdercoating. it'll be easier and faster in the long run, albeit a bit more cost up front...

BUT, i just finished mocking and cutting up the stuff to modify my super sport gas tank to accept a Monza style flip up gas cap!!! i took a lot of time and some dremel wheels, but i think it looks TITS!! thoughts??

tweakin · « **Reply #188 on:** February 25, 2011, 04:59:42 PM »

Good call on the powdercoat, it is the only way to go IMO. Tits is the word that came to my mind when I look at the tank with new filler... Although I really like the F tank the way it is, I also like the filler set up you plan on rockin.

wannabridin · « **Reply #189 on:** February 25, 2011, 05:14:13 PM »

Thanks man!! As soon as I got it on there, I KNEW it was perfect!! I think it looks SO right!!

So I got some of the cast iron paint on the tank, and my original idea of a winbelton white/creme color for my tins, might get cast aside for that rusoleum, haha!! I mean damn it has a sexy color!! And itll look great against a bright red!!

Tintop · « **Reply #190 on:** February 25, 2011, 05:14:28 PM »

Monza cap looks good, but then I'm bias.

Are you planning on welding the plate on?

wannabridin · « **Reply #191 on:** February 25, 2011, 08:35:43 PM »

Finished welding it today!! Man having a 120v MIG using flux core kinda sucks with thin plate!! Oh well, living and learning, this is one of my first attempts with welding and a gas tank. I used some epoxy to smooth out the transitions, so ill sand that smooth before bondo. I sure hope it holds up! I think I'll be fine though... Only time will tell!

Progress is slow, but at least I can cross this off my list!!

wannabridin · « **Reply #192 on:** March 04, 2011, 01:07:00 PM »

woooo!!! Mike just e-mailed me and said my head, rots, rotor and pistons will be shipping out monday afternoon! that means i should ge tthem at the end of next week! hopefully APE will be sending my crank soon too so i can start putting the motor together.

also, went to my local bearing supplier to pick up some SKF engine bearings. i ordered all that i could from SKF, some others are different, German, brands. either way, still quality stuff, so that should be in next week as well! my parts list is slowly dwindling away, i'm only lacking some small things!

also, placed an order with Rob for a boxed swingarm, 1" over length. i figured for the price, it's only a little more than Hondamans rebuild service, and i'll hopefully have it a couple weeks earlier too. more strength, better looks, better stability = a happy me! thank goodness for spring break the week after next!

wannabridin · « **Reply #193 on:** March 04, 2011, 04:03:21 PM »

ok guys. making some "headway" on my oil tank. i need your advice! here's what i have mocked up so far out of posterboard. when i finalize on the size, i'll draw the tank up to have fabricated. i need your thoughts!

on the side facing the camera i'll have the sight tube. i'll have the feed and return lines on the bottom, on the right side, away from the chain. for the filler, i'll either put it top center under the seat, or top right, on the corner, so i can still view it with the seat on...

thoughts?

?? ideas??? opinions?

Zaipai · « **Reply #194 on:** March 04, 2011, 04:26:17 PM »

I like the tank, is it going to be big enough? What about cooling, it looks like that tank will be smaller then the stock one if so you may want an oil cooler on it to compensate..

Just some thoughts..

.: Scott :.

wannabridin · « **Reply #195 on:** March 04, 2011, 04:32:36 PM »

Forgot to mention that. A few pages back I had a picture of the cooler I'm going to run, with a manual bypass, and a spin on filter. I'll use as long of a filter as I can for extra capacity, and the 3/8" oil lines should do just fine.

I figure in the lines, cooler and filter I'll have a quart, and with the tank, I'll get about 1.75 will "full"

Zaipai · « **Reply #196 on:** March 04, 2011, 04:50:46 PM »

Quote from: wannabINDUSTRIdin on March 04, 2011, 04:32:36 PM

Forgot to mention that. A few pages back I had a picture of the cooler I'm going to run, with a manual bypass, and a spin on filter. I'll use as long of a filter as I can for extra capacity, and the 3/8" oil lines should do just fine.

I figure in the lines, cooler and filter I'll have a quart, and with the tank, I'll get about 1.75 will "full"

Yea that should do it. I thought you mentioned a cooler, I was just too lazy to look back a few pages

...

.: Scott :.

Tintop · « **Reply #197 on:** March 04, 2011, 05:57:34 PM »

Keep in mind that oil is a essential cooling medium, more is better than less.

You mentioned that your feed (going to engine), and return (coming from engine) are on the bottom. Are you running a tube up inside the tank from the return. Ideally it should empty at the top, as this allows the air to separate quickly from the oil, among other things. Easier just to plumb in the return line on the front face at the top.

wannabridin · « **Reply #198 on:** March 04, 2011, 06:13:48 PM »

well after seeing how the factory did things, i was thinking i should just run the tube from the bottom. this will keep things clean and still allow the mixture to separate without much aeration.

but it would be easier to just have a line going to the top and having it feed in that way. i'm going to see what the fabricator says. if he can do the tube going up, then there's no reason why not to do that. i might even have him put a small bend in the line so the return flow splashes on the side of the tank to help keep the bubbling to a minimum and give air bubbles a chance to be "forced" out.

i feel my capacity will be enough, especially with a cooler. what's the stock capacity again??

wannabridin · « **Reply #199 on:** August 12, 2011, 02:24:38 PM »

Ok, just throwing down an idea for my seat pad so I don't forget. Rising sun on the backrest part. I'll have white tins and red frame/wheels, so do I do a white seat too, with red striping/piping and the rising sun on the back? I think that would look really good! Thoughts?

Oh ya, it'll be a button on seat, so I'll have the chrome/brushed snaps around the seat and back...

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Author Topic: 76 750K this bike will change my life. (Read 173252 times)