Topic: Driving out Swingarm Shock Bushing?

[dagersh]

Hey Guys,

I have searched, but cannot find the answer.

How do I get these out of the swingarm so that i can have it stripped and powdercoated?

Thanks in advance....



Gersh

[bryanj]

Hydraulic press or burn the centre out then split the outer with a hacksaw blade, either way you will need new ones

[AshimotoK0]

When i had my swinging arm powder coated the guytold me to leave the bushes in as he reckoned the powder coating baking would not degrade them. Anyone disagree?

[bistromath]

i just beat the hell out of mine with a socket sized to fit. i don't know if they'll survive baking or not, but i didn't take the chance and got new ones. mine were pretty beat anyway.

[Terry in Australia]

When i had my swinging arm powder coated the guytold me to leave the bushes in as he reckoned the powder coating baking would not degrade them. Anyone disagree?

Yeah, same here mate, those things are virtually indestructable. I'm sure that after a nuclear holocaust, the only survivors will be cockroaches and swingarm shock bushes, ha ha!

[Cqyqte]

Put a large socket, bigger than the outer race up against the frame then on the other side place another socket just smaller than the outer race and pass a bolt through the center holes and then place a nut on the bolt and tighten the #$%* out of the nut and bolt.  The smaller socket will push the bearing out of the frame into the larger socket.

[dagersh]

Thanks Guys - love this place!

[CycleRanger]

If you have a vise you can also use couple of sockets to press it out.

[dagersh]

Brilliant, I did not think of using the vice that way, but makes sense, it's almost a press!

I did manage to cut them out though.   Man, they were a pain....

[HondaMan]

Press them out toward the inside, and back in from the inside. The holes are tapered 0.0004" narrower toward the outside. 

[MCRider]

When i had my swinging arm powder coated the guytold me to leave the bushes in as he reckoned the powder coating baking would not degrade them. Anyone disagree?

Yeah, same here mate, those things are virtually indestructable. I'm sure that after a nuclear holocaust, the only survivors will be cockroaches and swingarm shock bushes, ha ha!

I've had my swingarm chrome plated twice with those bushings in. No problem. Not as much heat as powdercoating, but nasty stuff nevertheless.

[Steve F]

Press them out...they remove quite easily, and rubber parts don't take to high heat very nicely.

[dagersh]

Thanks again.  Hondaman - Thanks for the advice, i will put the new ones in from the inside as well.  I assume I should freeze them and warm up the swingarm prior to installation?

Gersh

[HondaMan]

Thanks again.  Hondaman - Thanks for the advice, i will put the new ones in from the inside as well.  I assume I should freeze them and warm up the swingarm prior to installation?

Gersh

The fit-up it's so hard to reassemble: the disassembly is harder because of the years. You shouldn't need to heat or cool anything, but grease on both is definitely required. 

[dagersh]

Thanks HM.  I have to send you a PM about this 450 build I am doing.  I just want to ask the right questions before I do it!

[Kickstart]

I know this is an old thread, but I figured I would add some pictures and my experience to help others.

A big thank-you to those who recommended the socket/bolt method (I also read another thread from Hondaman on this in the past, but I couldn't find that thread again).  I probably would have banged on mine (and possibly damaged my swingarm) trying to get these out.  I'm glad I searched for suggestions on this site before trying to remove them.

I've attached a picture of the "tool" I made.  I originally tried a 1/4 bolt and a 5/16 - no such luck, I stripped and bent those bolts - just not strong enough.

The following worked well for me:
 - 5/8" 1/2 drive socket from some old cheap socket set gifted to me years ago (Thin wall? - it was just small enough to fit - any larger OD and it wouldn't have worked).
- 23mm 1/2 drive socket - 12 point.  The 7/8" one I had didn't look like it had a large enough ID, so I just bought a 22 and 23mm (I think a 15/16"  or the 22mm would have worked as well).
- A 3/8" 5" long carriage bolt with nuts and two washers on each end. (Using the 1/2 sockets so I can fit the bolt through them)

Important note: When you go to the hardware store to buy the bolt/nuts/washers - don't buy just one.  I would buy at least two (one for each bushing) if not four.  After pulling the first one out, I re-used the same bolt on the next one.  It's hard to tell in the "action shot" below, but the bolt is starting to bend.  I had to use a fresh bolt. 
$3 for extra bolt/nuts/washers - Not having to kill 45 minutes on a return trip to the hardware store: Priceless

I also threaded a nut to the top of the carriage bolt and used two washers to help give me an option to remove the bolt if I stripped the threads.  You can see some carnage (steel dust) from where I had to dremel off the nut on the 1/4 bolt that I stripped during the first attempt.  The top of the carriage bolt sunk into the socket and I had nothing to help me get the stripped nut off the other end.

As mentioned below, drive them form the outside in. And as mentioned in Hondaman's other thread use some grease on the bolt threads.

Good luck to others... hopefully my write-up helps you out.

[Scott S]

 What about re-installing them? Any tips or tricks? Or just press them in?

[drumstyx]

What about re-installing them? Any tips or tricks? Or just press them in?

I used my vice and some wood to not scar it up too much..

[RedLiner]

What about re-installing them? Any tips or tricks? Or just press them in?

I used a 3/8" nut and bolt and a couple large washers stacked up so they don't bend. Tighten them up making sure they don't get cocked when you first start tightening them. Once started they go in smooth as silk without having to worry about damaging the finish on the swingarm.

[FourUsTry]

Press them out toward the inside, and back in from the inside. The holes are tapered 0.0004" narrower toward the outside. 

For the sake of future bushing whackers...

On my 1978 CB550K they are actually tapered the other way around (wider at the outside). I'm not sure which models/years are this way so if you aren't sure try eyeballing them or using a caliper on the exterior. On mine (in retrospect) the taper is pretty obvious externally. And, yes, getting the second one out after realizing this was much easier  .

Kickstart's notes are good. The 3/8" bolt or rod will just fit in the bushing ID so it will help center the sockets and will give you max strength (I bent a few of these also). Finding the biggest socket that will pass through the (tapered) hole is important so you are applying the force on the face of the outer bushing ring and not partially outward. And you probably need a deep larger socket that can hold the full bushing without it bottoming out and stopping progress part way.

[HondaMan]

Press them out toward the inside, and back in from the inside. The holes are tapered 0.0004" narrower toward the outside. 

For the sake of future bushing whackers...

On my 1978 CB550K they are actually tapered the other way around (wider at the outside). I'm not sure which models/years are this way so if you aren't sure try eyeballing them or using a caliper on the exterior. On mine (in retrospect) the taper is pretty obvious externally. And, yes, getting the second one out after realizing this was much easier .

Kickstart's notes are good. The 3/8" bolt or rod will just fit in the bushing ID so it will help center the sockets and will give you max strength (I bent a few of these also). Finding the biggest socket that will pass through the (tapered) hole is important so you are applying the force on the face of the outer bushing ring and not partially outward. And you probably need a deep larger socket that can hold the full bushing without it bottoming out and stopping progress part way.

Right you are: I should have mentioned that earlier. 

[BenelliSEI]

All good advice. Knowing the number of bushings, bearings and bits that need to be pushed into place on a motorcycle, maybe a small bench top or free standing press?? Two years ago, I finally bought one, on sale for about $60. The ad said it was a 12 Ton press. It looked like a full size unit, on it’s own base........ when a buddy and I got t the store (Princess Auto up here) we had a good laugh. It was only about 4’ tall! Every time I use it, I had to sit down on a milkcrate, to be at the right height.

Not long ago I saw a really clever installation. Picked up a pair of large farm gate hinges. Welded the female set to on side of my press, then screwed the male “L” portion to a large wooden post, buried in one of my shop walls. The press now hangs  a few feet off the floor and swings in and out like a door. When not in use, totally out of the way. The first time you use it, you’ll be glad you did it!!

[754]

4 ft tall, just put it on a low bench when you use it.
 Not having a press around sucks..