Topic: Can someone confirm this wiring question?

[BigBoi]

Things are moving along on my project CB750K2. I've got the harness in and I'm lining everything up. It's all good except for one thing. My bike is K2 but I bought the harness from Partsnmore for the 73-75 (K3-K5). Everything is good except for the ignition key switch (which I picked up a correct one from Partsnmore as well), and the starter motor safety unit. The K2 didn't have one (see diagrams), but the K3-K5 did.

Can I follow the recommendations in this post:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=60528.0

To get around this issue? Should I cut off the red block connector, connect the wires above, and then seal off the remaining?

Any input is good!

Thanks!

[HondaMan]

You can connect the K2's START wire from the handlebar (YEL/RED) to the DK-GN/RD on the START solenoid directly, then connect the other side of the START solenoid to BLACK at the voltage regulator, or to the main fuse at the 15Amp fused side (which should also be BLACK).

The K2 had no safety circuits. The NEUTRAL light must then be connected directly to the NEUTRAL switch in the engine's white connector. The rest of the safety wires can then be ignored, as can the other 2 fuses.

[BigBoi]

You can connect the K2's START wire from the handlebar (YEL/RED) to the DK-GN/RD on the START solenoid directly, then connect the other side of the START solenoid to BLACK at the voltage regulator, or to the main fuse at the 15Amp fused side (which should also be BLACK).

The K2 had no safety circuits. The NEUTRAL light must then be connected directly to the NEUTRAL switch in the engine's white connector. The rest of the safety wires can then be ignored, as can the other 2 fuses.

According to both the K2 and K3-K5 diagrams, the starter button (YEL/RED) already connects to the start solenoid, as well as the other side of the solenoid connecting to the regulator. (My harness from partsnmore should be a plug and play for these two).

Where it gets fuzzy is about this neutral light. My K2 does have one, and it should connect right up to the engine's neutral switch via the 8 position block connector. (According to both diagrams again)

My question is what do I do at the red connector? Since there's no DRK GRN/RED connection on the K2, that wire should be useless to me on my K3-K5 harness correct? Since my starter is ground via the handlebars, isn't it going to work without jumping any wires?

Also, I connected three fuses as they are on the K3-K5. Just did three inline instead of a fuse panel using the recommended amperage (15,7.5 and 5). Basically cut off the block connector, connected one end of the YEL/RED to the inline fuse and then the other YEL/RED to the other side of the inline fuse.

[BigBoi]

You can connect the K2's START wire from the handlebar (YEL/RED) to the DK-GN/RD on the START solenoid directly, then connect the other side of the START solenoid to BLACK at the voltage regulator, or to the main fuse at the 15Amp fused side (which should also be BLACK).

The K2 had no safety circuits. The NEUTRAL light must then be connected directly to the NEUTRAL switch in the engine's white connector. The rest of the safety wires can then be ignored, as can the other 2 fuses.

I've re-read this like 15 times Mark, I'm having a hard time understanding. According to the diagrams, the two wires coming out of the solenoid are YEL/RED and BLACK. How come you mention DK-GRN/RED?

Also, I can't seem to figure out where the BLACK connects to the 15 amp fuse?

It might just be me not knowing what I'm doing...honestly.

[HondaMan]

I'm getting a little confused from reading your description, too! 
But then, it doesn't take much with me... 

My reference to the DK-GRN/RED presumed the K3-K5 harness you have contained those colors. It sounds like it's missing, so try this instead:

1. Connect the BLACK on the START solenoid to the BLACK at the voltage regulator (or anywhere else you see a BLACK: it's all the same IGNITION circuit).
2. Find a way to run the YEL/RED from the START solenoid to the grounding button START switch at the right handlebar. That will complete the START circuit, at least.

The K5-K6 harnesses had a DK-GN/RD that ran through the harness to the START entry on the safety module. Sorry, but I presumed that was in the harness you have, and mentioned using that wire to make the trip. If yours has the YEL/RED wire for START, then it is a copy of the K3-K4 harness, and not the K5. I suppose aftermarket harnesses will get a little confused from time to time, as there were lots of changes over the years.

The NEUTRAL switch: the color for the lamp on the K2 should match the color for the NEUTRAL switch at the engine connector, and tie straight to it. This presumes, though, that the NEUTRAL bulb was not swapped with some other bulb: they all fit each other's socket in the little dashboard! I think the NEUTRAL is LT-GRN/RED on the K2 (would have to go look...).

The BLACK question: the battery runs to the main 15 amp fuse as RED, then to the keyswitch as RED, on most of the 750s. (Some ran as RED to the main fuse, then BROWN to the keyswitch, depending on who made the harness, but those are not so common.) After the keyswitch, the power is on BLACK, which is the IGNITION circuit supply for everything on K0-K2. On the K3-later bikes, this is also true, but in the headlight the BLACK goes to the ON-OFF handlebar headlight switch, then comes back as BROWN to the keyswitch and the 7.5 amp fuse. It leaves the 7.5 amp fuse as BROWN/WHITE and goes to the headlight. There is another BROWN/WHITE from the keyswitch that goes to the 5 amp fuse on the fuseblock, which comes out of the fuse as BROWN/WHITE (on most, not all) 750s and goes to the taillight. So, there are 2 separate BROWN/WHITE circuits in the K3-K8 and "F" bikes, and they are not the same circuit!