Author Topic: Testing the Vinegar Tank treatment... (Read 18248 times)

Colonel · « **on:** January 30, 2010, 07:40:56 PM »

I am doing it... Will let you know...

Gordon · « **Reply #1 on:** January 30, 2010, 07:52:07 PM »

I have no doubt it will work fine since it's acidic. Weak acids just take longer, but not everybody's in a hurry.

Even just using vinegar I'd remove the petcock first. Acid eats aluminum.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #2 on:** January 30, 2010, 09:03:15 PM »

And produces hydrogen- BANG!

Colonel · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2010, 10:08:25 AM »

Petcock is out... Plugged the tank with a custom "French Bordeaux" cork...
Sat the tank on top of a large plastic bin...
Vinegar in...

wardenerd · « **Reply #4 on:** January 31, 2010, 10:11:50 AM »

PO on my bike cleaned the tank with a kit and never removed the petcock.. Did I tell you that petcocks are about$70

Don R · « **Reply #5 on:** January 31, 2010, 10:30:56 AM »

The guy that bought my brothers yamaha 1100 used "the works" and blew the tank up. He most likely left the petcock on.

BobbyR · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2010, 11:05:38 AM »

Quote from: Colonel on January 31, 2010, 10:08:25 AM

Petcock is out... Plugged the tank with a custom "French Bordeaux" cork...
Sat the tank on top of a large plastic bin...
Vinegar in...

That Cork my be the key to success. I am interested to see how this turns out.

HondanutRider · « **Reply #7 on:** February 01, 2010, 06:07:02 AM »

Using a cork or something similar to plug the petcock holes may be a good idea if you use a weak acid like vinegar. I've used several layers of electrical tape to seal over my tank holes, and that worked good to seal and didn't damage the paint when removed. The electrical tape also didn't seem to be affected by any acid that I used. I'd be afraid of cork getting "eaten" by something stronger than vinegar.

xenoscr · « **Reply #8 on:** February 01, 2010, 06:53:34 AM »

There are science supply stores online that sell rubber stoppers for test tubes that work perfectly for sealing the holes from the petcock. Just measure the holes and order the right size. They have two measurements, top and bottom diameter. This is what I ended up doing when I used a Kreem kit to clean and seal my tank. It held well even with a full tank of cleaner inside.

XenosCR

mystic_1 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 01, 2010, 07:20:01 AM »

What concentration of vinegar are you using?

mystic_1

Popwood · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2010, 10:40:15 AM »

If your local hardware store has the rows of boxes from Hillman Fasteners, usually found above the bins of screws, washers, nuts, etc., you'll probably find a nice variety of rubber stoppers. I've been working on my tank and bought two, one for the petcock opening and a wide one for the gas cap opening. The small one was 49 cents, the large one $3. It's kept the acetone in while I was cleaning residual gas varnish and the electrolyte solution when I did the electrolysis treatment (worked great!!) and the glass bead abrasive out while blasting the old paint off.

Gnat · « **Reply #11 on:** February 01, 2010, 10:51:23 AM »

Home depot carries rubber stoppers in a variety of sizes (they almost carry everything) I used wooden dowels that I thinned and screwed them into the holes

Gnat

Colonel · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2010, 10:49:49 AM »

Quote from: mystic_1 on February 01, 2010, 07:20:01 AM

What concentration of vinegar are you using?

mystic_1

I filled my tank with White Vinegar - the kind you by by gallon @ your grocery store -; left the cap unlocked. In the evening I clean the rust depot from the tank cap with a cloth.
The process is slow but the metal is now showing...
I know I should have taken a pic of before... But I will take some shots tonight.
I will probably drain the tank in the coming days, rinse with hot water several time (baking soda?) then flash the tank with rubbing alcohol to get rid of the water.

Let me know if I should look into something else... This is my first vinegar treatment...

Popwood · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2010, 10:59:06 AM »

Someone pointed out rubbing alcohol is about 60% water-- maybe more, so not the most effective water removal solution. I recently did this and used acetone, which was the suggested alternative. I got as much of the water removed as possible-- vigorous shaking, then added a small can full of acetone, probably a pint container. Shook this around. Did the trick.

lone*X · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2010, 11:27:21 AM »

You can get higher percentage alcohol. I have some that is 90% that came from Walgreens. Also you can buy straight isopropal alcohol at the hardware store by the gallon. Acetone flashes much more readily than alcohol so be careful with it, particularly in a closed garage.

xenoscr · « **Reply #15 on:** February 03, 2010, 12:48:54 PM »

Quote from: lone*X on February 03, 2010, 11:27:21 AM

You can get higher percentage alcohol. I have some that is 90% that came from Walgreens. Also you can buy straight isopropal alcohol at the hardware store by the gallon. Acetone flashes much more readily than alcohol so be careful with it, particularly in a closed garage.

It'll also eat your paint. If you don't plan on repainting, be careful.

XenosCR

lone*X · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2010, 01:58:04 PM »

As a side note to this thread, a few weeks ago one of the segments of Horsepower TV on the SPIKE network ran a demo of using vinegar as a rust remover. They showed an example of a rusty plate that they half way submerged in a dilute vinegar/water solution for a few days. Submerged portion of plate was notably clear of scale and appeared clean.

Nice thing about vinegar is it is CHEAP, environmentally safe (put the leftovers on your salad), and you can't burn holes in your jeans with it.

BobbyR · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2010, 02:16:28 PM »

One thing. No matter how you get the Vinegar out and dry the tank, you would probably want to coat the tank quickly with some sort of oil to prevent flash rusting.

Colonel · « **Reply #18 on:** February 06, 2010, 09:12:39 AM »

Here are some pictures of the experiment.
As mentioned before I did not take BEFORE but trus me when I say the inside of the tank had a lot of surface rust.

Note also the deposit of rust on the cap... It seems that Acetic acid is doing it's job.
Next, I will rinse and flash with 9o% alcohol, dry then flash with motor oil...

I am planning to re-install the tank right after oil treatment, then re-fill; Any comments?

Cheers, Stephen

BobbyR · « **Reply #19 on:** February 06, 2010, 10:17:02 AM »

Looks great and I think you hit on something here. I have a few specks inside my tank, so this looks like a nice way to clean it up without using harsh chemicals. Congratulations!

cafenut · « **Reply #20 on:** February 07, 2010, 09:03:43 AM »

i understand oiling the newly cleaned raw metal but what stops the rust from forming on the upper portion of a tank three quarters the way full?

BobbyR · « **Reply #21 on:** February 07, 2010, 09:10:50 AM »

Gas is a bit oily and also forms some varnish which may seal the metal. Also the rust where the gas is drawn from like the sides and bottom may have more harmful effects.

JoshuaJames · « **Reply #22 on:** March 16, 2012, 06:55:06 AM »

what is the best way to prevent flash rusting?

Brake cleaner, some gas, motor oil........

ekpent · « **Reply #23 on:** March 16, 2012, 07:06:15 AM »

If you go the oil route use two stroke oil as it readily mixes with gas. Motor oil not so much. Maybe a little 2 stroke with gas,swish it around the bare metal,drain and close up the cap and tap. Flash rust can happen fast.

Irukandji · « **Reply #24 on:** March 16, 2012, 08:49:38 AM »

I want to ask .... How does the anti-flash treatment help when after you put in gas and use it up.
Wont the same metal be exposed and rust up anyway?

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Author Topic: Testing the Vinegar Tank treatment... (Read 18248 times)