Author Topic: Seamus - '74 550 (Read 34550 times)

Little_Horse · « **Reply #75 on:** March 09, 2010, 06:33:25 pm »

you could always paint the spokes and the rim. Don't worry about the time wasted, it seems for most of us that we have more time then money so... it should be obvious what needs to happen

Stev-o · « **Reply #76 on:** March 09, 2010, 07:10:17 pm »

That's what I was thinkin' too, why not paint them since you are on a budget?

theofam · « **Reply #77 on:** March 09, 2010, 09:13:13 pm »

Alright cornandp and meriggi, now you've got me feeling guilty about giving up on my "budget" build. My concern is that, even after two days of oxalic acid bath to get rid of rust and four days in the vibratory tumbler, there's still rusty junk on the spokes.

Let's say I do a final clean up with some scotchbrite or steel wool and primer then paint the spokes. What is a good primer to seal the rust? Maybe if I use Rustoleum primer and paint? You guys are getting me pumped to get back on the budget bandwagon! Thanks for keeping me on point - I kinda needed a swift kick!!

Stev-o · « **Reply #78 on:** March 10, 2010, 05:15:37 am »

Try the rustoleum and see if you like the results.

Little_Horse · « **Reply #79 on:** March 10, 2010, 07:14:41 am »

if the spokes have alot of pitting I would use a flat paint as it will hide the roughness. If you get all the flaky rust off and then clean with scotchbrite you should be fine spray paint that is good quality won't have any issues staying down on a surface like that. Before painting it is a good idea to get some acetone and wipe everything down. It evaporates quickly so you can pretty much wipe then spray. Follow up with a couple of coats.

theofam · « **Reply #80 on:** March 10, 2010, 12:36:35 pm »

cornandp, thanks for the tips. The spokes do have quite a bit of pitting, so I'll look for a flat paint - gonna keep them silver to offset the black rim.

So, sounds like I don't need to primer - instead scotchbrite --> acetone --> spray? That'll save me a step! I'm hoping to finish up my paint booth Friday, so I can start spraying soon.

Little_Horse · « **Reply #81 on:** March 10, 2010, 01:33:46 pm »

well a self etching primer will help things, but if you get rustoleum brand the industrial stuff I have had good success with and without primer.

SohRon · « **Reply #82 on:** March 14, 2010, 10:14:56 am »

I had success with my front spokes using "Hope's Stainless Steel Polish", red scotchbrite and 0000 steel wool.

The spokes from Woody's are quite substantial; a heavier wire than stock and stronger. Well worth the price, IMO.

theofam · « **Reply #83 on:** March 14, 2010, 03:52:17 pm »

Sohron, I think my spokes are too far gone for the steel wool, red scotchbrite combo. I spent a few hours yesterday green scotchbriting the flanged portion of each spoke. But there is no budging the old cad plating on the main part of the spokes, so I've decided to take meriggi's and cornandp's advice and paint them, hopefully this week.

I've also spent quite a bit of time this weekend sanding my front rim. I'm trying to scuff up the chrome to the point some self-etching primer will stick, then paint it black. Fingers crossed, assuming I don't get held up with another week of a sick kid at home, I'll have the front wheel assembled and trued by week's end. I ordered Kenda 657 Challengers front and back. They should be in this week, so I might be able to get the front mounted, too.

I don't plan on running a speedo on Seamus. Has anyone made/found a spacer to take the speedo drive gear's place?

I can't wait for you to get yours put back together! I'm looking forward to a ride up to Frederick to check it out!

JAG · « **Reply #84 on:** March 14, 2010, 07:57:10 pm »

Umm I don't know if Im too late but you can get some spokes from David Silver Spares.

Front for a 500 is roughly $37

Rear is around $27.

I'm assuming for a 550 its about the same.

Mine look like T-Total crap. And I am purchasing my spokes from there, and trying to re lace them myself.

Good luck.

theofam · « **Reply #85 on:** March 14, 2010, 09:00:26 pm »

JAG, thanks for the info on the spokes. Very tempting! I may drop the $64 to save me the time and eliminate the possibility of spokes chipping in the future. Good luck lacing them! Lemme know if you hit any stumbling blocks - I love learning from all of you!!

JAG · « **Reply #86 on:** March 14, 2010, 09:09:16 pm »

There is a couple of great write ups on how to do it on here, I think I have also found some on the AVDrider forum as well. I will definitely be using them to help me along the way.. From what I understand the best thing you can do is take ALOT of pictures of the wheel before hand so that you can reference when you are re-lacing.

Doing it yourself I think is the best way. Besides I was quoted at my local Honda Dealer over $500 dollars to do just the re-lacing! No thanks!

I have a build thread as well, just haven't gotten anything done recently, and have been waiting on parts, but I will outline in detail how I do it and let ya know..

Good luck.

Little_Horse · « **Reply #87 on:** March 15, 2010, 08:33:42 am »

I saw you needed another starter cover... I will sell you mine on the cheap

theofam · « **Reply #88 on:** March 15, 2010, 09:18:07 am »

cornandp, sent you a pm re: starter cover

theofam · « **Reply #89 on:** March 19, 2010, 12:13:02 pm »

Today I've been disassembling my forks. The odd thing is, once taken apart, the internals don't look anything like page 16 of 21 (Figure 250) of this manual: http://data.sohc4.net/SM500/HSM500550_3.pdf

Does anyone recognize these fork internals? Maybe they've been swapped over the years for something non-550ish?

Per the manual's Figure 250, I should have a lock nut (#2 in Fig 250), a damper rod with a long shaft (don't laugh

- #8 in Fig 250), a spring that's tightly wound top and bottom (#9 in Fig 250), and an 8mm bolt at the bottom (#7 in Fig 250). Instead, I have no lock nut, a damper rod without a long shaft (caught you grinning, didn't I?

), a spring that's only tightly wound at the bottom, and a 6mm bolt at the bottom (holds in the damper rod). Thoughts?

This bike is so rusty, even the rubber has rust!!

I read http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20127.msg209441#msg209441, and DaytonGuy mentioned he had used c clamps to remove his fork seals. Off to HD I went and picked up this Husky 1" c clamp for $1.89. It's now an "Usky" c clamp, as I had to tweak it a bit on my grinder to get it to fit. Here are the tools I used to remove the seal, along with a pic of them about to do the deed.

Just work your way around the seal and, depending on how gunked up your rubber is, you'll have the seal in hand in 30 seconds to five minutes.

This week I got my paint booth assembled in my garage. The first experiment was my front rim. It turned out good after 5 coats of self-etching primer, 400 wet sand, 5 coats of sandable primer, 600 wet sand, 3 coats of black and three coats of clear. It's a bit "dusty" looking, but I'm hoping once it has cured that a wet sand and buff will help smooth it out. We'll see!

I also got the tank stripped with some aircraft stripper - potent stuff! Earlier in my build thread the discussion came up of whether my bike is a 74 or a 75. As I stripped away the PO's rattle-can silver, I learned my original tank color was Flake Sunrise Orange and Black - a combo available in '74 but not '75. So, I'm leaning toward '74.

Off to scrub the fork lowers in hopes of getting them polished.

theofam · « **Reply #90 on:** March 19, 2010, 06:09:20 pm »

TT, ah-ha! That makes sense now and brings me great relief. Thanks for pointing me to the doc!

traveler · « **Reply #91 on:** March 21, 2010, 12:58:09 pm »

just curious....

What did you end up paying for the 650 cam??

~Joe

theofam · « **Reply #92 on:** March 21, 2010, 03:44:09 pm »

Traveler, I haven't yet sourced a 650 cam. The camshaft on ebay immediately after yours went for $1 more at $71. I thought I'd struck gold locally on CL with a guy parting out a CB650, but it was a 1984, so no luck. I've still plenty of other parts to buy to keep me busy, so if I'm not in a huge hurry, that'll be when one falls in my lap (fingers crossed)!

fasturd · « **Reply #93 on:** March 30, 2010, 08:24:00 am »

Dude that project obsession is like a drug! The difference is when you are done you have something to enjoy rather than being hung over or in jail! Keep up the good/hard work it will totally be worth it!

theofam · « **Reply #94 on:** April 07, 2010, 02:37:35 pm »

I've been AWOL for awhile due to my kids' spring break, but I'm getting back in the saddle.

I got my carbs put back together today and bench synched,

but I've got leftover parts?!

I can't for the life of me remember where these two little cylinders went. Anyone wanna jog my memory?

Please tell me they go between the 1-2 and 3-4 carbs, so I can get the opportunity to pull the carbs off the stay plate again!

Pictures speak to me. I find them much easier to digest than the written word, so I thought I'd throw in a photo progression of front fork assembly in case anyone ever needs it.

First, drop in the lower damper unit with the wide, flat part toward the bottom of the fork leg.

Second, fork seals. Don't put the fork seal in first, or the lower damper unit won't fit. The small-ringed opening points skyward. The large-ringed opening w/ the spring points toward the road.

Driver set from HF. . . $29.

Snap ring pliers to make installation a five-second job . . . $24. Having the right tools so you don't cuss in front of your daughter in the garage . . . priceless.

Next, drop the damper unit, skinny side down, into the fork tube.

Install fork tube into fork leg.

Grab your nearest broom handle to hold the damper unit in place.

Get a 6mm allen wrench to install the 6mm bolt on the bottom of the fork leg.

Drop in the spring and lengthen the fork leg.

Add the top bolt and . . .

Voila! Reassembled fork.

All I ask in return for this photo montage is help finding some top bolts that aren't so hideous! David Silver only had one (1) in stock. Anyone know where to find these in good shape?

Little_Horse · « **Reply #95 on:** April 07, 2010, 05:45:35 pm »

don't forget fork oil

.

theofam · « **Reply #96 on:** April 07, 2010, 06:11:55 pm »

I was just sitting at dinner and thought, "Oh, crap! Everyone's gonna think I'm not putting in fork oil!"

I plan on putting it in once I get the front end back together and some nicer top bolts/caps. Thanks for keeping this train on the tracks!

Little_Horse · « **Reply #97 on:** April 07, 2010, 07:00:42 pm »

good pictorial write up though, you can also use the spring to hold the dampening rod when screwing in the bottom screw instead of a broom handle.

Stev-o · « **Reply #98 on:** April 07, 2010, 07:11:34 pm »

Good to see ya back, we've been waiting! Good job.

theofam · « **Reply #99 on:** April 07, 2010, 08:43:39 pm »

Good to be back, Meriggi!

Cornandp, good tip on putting in the spring/top cap to hold in the damper unit while screwing in the 6mm bottom bolt.

My carb mystery is solved! I LOVE this forum. Some SOHC4ers weighed in on this topic and explained to me my missing pieces:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=68596.0

I'm hoping to prime and paint the lower triple tree tomorrow. Hopefully, I can have the front end back together soon and move on to the rearsets I picked up yesterday at my local salvage.

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Author Topic: Seamus - '74 550 (Read 34550 times)

traveler