Topic: My CB750 Book, by Hondaman: a 10% discount thru 1/24/25! :)

[SteveD CB500F]

And on my website, now.

... and your website is... ?

Don't miss any opportunity to link to your site as they all count in the SEO stakes!

Also, put it in your profile so that you get the little globe link.

[HondaMan]

And on my website, now.

... and your website is... ?

Don't miss any opportunity to link to your site as they all count in the SEO stakes!

Also, put it in your profile so that you get the little globe link.

Oops. it is: www.SOHC4shop.com.
What is the "SEO stakes?".

[CycleRanger]

Oops. it is: www.SOHC4shop.com.
What is the "SEO stakes?".

Search Engine Optimization.

One way Google, for example, ranks pages is by the number of links it finds to that page.

[GRock]

Hey Mark,
     I just went ahead an ordered it from your website.

Thanks,
Greg

[HondaMan]

Hey Mark,
     I just went ahead an ordered it from your website.

Thanks,
Greg

Thanks, Greg, you're the first!
How's it feel to be #1?

[GRock]

Hey Mark,
     I just went ahead an ordered it from your website.

Thanks,
Greg

Thanks, Greg, you're the first!
How's it feel to be #1?

Really?!? I'm the first one!?! Cool! The deal went off without a hitch! Looking very forward to getting it and start making progress again.  It's been sitting for several months after I pulled the engine and am now clueless what to do next. I think I was the first one to order side covers off of Frankenstuffs website too!

Thanks,
Greg

[GRock]

Received the book a couple days ago and it looks great! I just went ahead and had it shipped via the envelope and it showed up in perfect shape. Sat down to start reading and getting a grasp of what he next few "easy steps" were going to be and the wife goes "Wait a minute!!! Give that to me, it's your Father's Day persent!!" I futally protested. "You have to finish the boys rooms anyway." She's right. I need to finish that %$#& room!!! SO after Father's Day and that room is done, the wrenches will fly!!

[Kinch]

Got the book yesterday and haven't been able to put it down.

A unique and invaluable resource for CB owners.

I've been planning on tearing down the engine to replace seals & gaskets, check wear, repaint etc but haven't really had the confidence that I'd be able to put it back together. I'm on it now!

[burmashave]

Hey HondaMan, I take some time off and missed a lot. I'm glad this thread got bumped; I'll be picking up a copy as soon as I can decide between the coffee table versus garage edition. Congrats.

You've inspired me. I think I could write a book, too, but mine would have a different perspective. Mine would more of a work of fiction relating the trials and troubles of a man in a yellow hat who fixes a bicycle for a chimp.

[HondaMan]

Hey HondaMan, I take some time off and missed a lot. I'm glad this thread got bumped; I'll be picking up a copy as soon as I can decide between the coffee table versus garage edition. Congrats.

You've inspired me. I think I could write a book, too, but mine would have a different perspective. Mine would more of a work of fiction relating the trials and troubles of a man in a yellow hat who fixes a bicycle for a chimp.

Welcome back!
The strangest part of this whole book thing is the number of people who now think I'm a 'pro' now.

[Kickstart]

Thank you for writing this book!

I received the book last week (ordered through Lulu) and have trouble putting it down.  I've read the entire book since I got it (some sections twice)... sleeping took a backseat to reading your book.

I'm going to ask my wife for a signed hardcopy for Christmas (if you're still selling them later this year)... My paperback one will most likely be getting dirty in the garage as I start my first ever complete teardown.

I did want to ask you a question regarding the performance A section:  I have a 1975 F model... which per your book has the lighter cam sprocket, and per my observation, has a less restrictive airbox (or at least I didn't see any baffles inside mine).  I was wondering if Honda also did more hand-finishing on the 75/76 F bikes than the late K's, in addition to the lighter sprocket and less restrictive airbox?... and, specifically, if the would be any improvements I could make in zones II, III, IV, and V as mentioned in the book?  (I haven't torn-down the engine yet.)

Thanks again for writing this book!
- Chris


 

[HondaMan]

Thank you for writing this book!

I received the book last week (ordered through Lulu) and have trouble putting it down.  I've read the entire book since I got it (some sections twice)... sleeping took a backseat to reading your book.

I'm going to ask my wife for a signed hardcopy for Christmas (if you're still selling them later this year)... My paperback one will most likely be getting dirty in the garage as I start my first ever complete teardown.

I did want to ask you a question regarding the performance A section:  I have a 1975 F model... which per your book has the lighter cam sprocket, and per my observation, has a less restrictive airbox (or at least I didn't see any baffles inside mine).  I was wondering if Honda also did more hand-finishing on the 75/76 F bikes than the late K's, in addition to the lighter sprocket and less restrictive airbox?... and, specifically, if the would be any improvements I could make in zones II, III, IV, and V as mentioned in the book?  (I haven't torn-down the engine yet.)

Thanks again for writing this book!
- Chris


 

If your "F" is one of the 1975 versions (also they were titled as 1976 bikes), they may well have the hand-finished ports. You'll be able to tell as soon as you put a flashlight up the ports. Mostly, the 1976 and later bikes had better head molds, so the intake ports were more uniform and didn't need so much hand work. The exhaust ports on the "F" bikes can benefit, though, by moving the fumes out a little quicker to reduce the heating of the exhaust guides. Shine a light in there and the restrictions around the guide bosses are immediately apparent, and easily opened with a Dremel grinder bit.

The airbox: only the earliest of the 1975 "F0" bikes had the 2-vent airboxes. Most had the K5/K6 style, with one long vent across the bottom, pulling air from behind, and with very little internal baffling. This made a nice, fast-flowing, quiet airbox that settled the "bump" in mixture that the 657 carbs have at 3000 RPM. Honda switched the needle in the slides to a thicker one, and called those carbs "7A" on the stamped nameplate. These are very smooth carbs with the "F" cams, even though they have no accelerator pump. One the "F", these are my favorite carbs.

[Kickstart]

I replaced my steering stem bearings with allballs tapered bearings this weekend.   Your chapter on this topic was extremely helpful… especially with how to get the lower inner bearing race off.

I ended up not re-using the lower bearing seal and washer, as I cut through the old one with the dremel tool and the allballs kit came with a replacement seal/washer (I assume this was a replacement)… is this ok?

Also, I didn’t quite understand the fork tube tightening order… and due to a comedy of errors, I ended up doing the following:

• Tightened the spanner nut
• Placed the upper tee on and loosely installed the top nut (crown nut?)
• Slid the tubes back in and snugged the top tee fork bolts
• Installed the fender / brake swing-arm – tightened
• I was then worried about the weight of the bike pushing the tubes up with just the top bolts snugged, so I tightened the lower tee fork bolts  (and loosened the top tee fork bolts) before putting the wheel on and lowering the bike off the jack
• Put the wheel on / lowered the bike off the jack – tightened the front wheel axel clamp bolts
• With the bike still on the center-stand I then grabbed the front brake and “bounced” on the front wheel a few times.
• Tightened the top tee fork bolts
• After realizing I didn’t tighten the crown nut, I loosened the top tee fork bolts, tightened the crown nut, and then tightened the top tee fork bolts.
• Double-checked my work, cleaned-up the garage, and took the bike for a quick spin.
• Feeling good about a job well down, I was staring at my bike and noticed to my horror and great embarrassment that the top tee stem bolt (the bolt between the crown nut and the gas tank) was missing!    I don’t know if it fell out during the ride or if I removed it and miss-placed it… but it was now gone.  I took one off my other bike and installed / tightened it.

So, my question is, do I need to loosen and re-tighten any of the bolts in a specific order?

Thanks for your help.

[HondaMan]

I replaced my steering stem bearings with allballs tapered bearings this weekend.   Your chapter on this topic was extremely helpful… especially with how to get the lower inner bearing race off.

I ended up not re-using the lower bearing seal and washer, as I cut through the old one with the dremel tool and the allballs kit came with a replacement seal/washer (I assume this was a replacement)… is this ok?

Also, I didn’t quite understand the fork tube tightening order… and due to a comedy of errors, I ended up doing the following:

• Tightened the spanner nut
• Placed the upper tee on and loosely installed the top nut (crown nut?)
• Slid the tubes back in and snugged the top tee fork bolts
• Installed the fender / brake swing-arm – tightened
• I was then worried about the weight of the bike pushing the tubes up with just the top bolts snugged, so I tightened the lower tee fork bolts  (and loosened the top tee fork bolts) before putting the wheel on and lowering the bike off the jack
• Put the wheel on / lowered the bike off the jack – tightened the front wheel axel clamp bolts
• With the bike still on the center-stand I then grabbed the front brake and “bounced” on the front wheel a few times.
• Tightened the top tee fork bolts
• After realizing I didn’t tighten the crown nut, I loosened the top tee fork bolts, tightened the crown nut, and then tightened the top tee fork bolts.
• Double-checked my work, cleaned-up the garage, and took the bike for a quick spin.
• Feeling good about a job well down, I was staring at my bike and noticed to my horror and great embarrassment that the top tee stem bolt (the bolt between the crown nut and the gas tank) was missing!    I don’t know if it fell out during the ride or if I removed it and miss-placed it… but it was now gone.  I took one off my other bike and installed / tightened it.

So, my question is, do I need to loosen and re-tighten any of the bolts in a specific order?

Thanks for your help.

Interesting method! But, it will leave some stresses there that you don't want, so do this, since you've already set the forks with the locked-brake method:
1. With the bike on the stand and front wheel, loosen the top tree's 3 bolts.
2. Tighten down the spanner nut on the steering stem, now that you've ridden a little: you might have to nudge the top tree up a bit to get to the spanner nut. I use the shock adjuster wrench from the OEM Honda [underseat] tool kit: it is made to fit this nut, same as the shock adjusters on the OEM rear shocks.
3. Re-set the top tree down onto the spanner nut, and tighten the chrome steering nut down first. Then make sure the wheel and handlebars are in line, and tighten the bolt.
4. This is real important: make sure the D-shaped washers are present in the top tree for the fork tubes, then tighten those fork tube bolts. Don't tighten these bolts without the D-shaped washers in the gap, or you will risk cracking the top tree. These washers are about 1.5mm thick, if you need to make some.

That should get you there! The bolt is available from Ace Hardware, if you need one.

[Kickstart]

Thanks Mark

I followed those steps tonight and I'm feeling better now.  Although I'm not sure how accurate I was able to make sure the wheel and handlebar were in-line... just eyeballed it.

For future reference, when I fix up my other bikes, I want to make sure I do it correctly the first time.  Is this the correct order?:

• Bike on center-stand with jack under the engine
• Instal the lower tree, tightening the adjusting nut as specified in your book
• Assemble the upper tree and lightly thread the crown nut (chrome steering nut)
• Slide in the forks - snug down the upper tree pinch bolts (making sure the D-washer is in place)
• Tighten the crown nut
• Assemble the front fender, wheel (skipped - I put the wheel on later), and brake - I tightened them Tighten them now - or just snug?
• This is where I get a little confused - your book states pumping the forks while grabbing the brake, but is this possible with none of the fork pinch bolts tightened? (the top tree pinch bolts were only "snugged")
• Tighten the lower triple tree pinch bolts
• Lower the jack - putting on the wheel
• This is where I pumped the forks
• Tighten the upper triple tree pinch bolts  - making sure to tighten the one around the crown nut 

Is this the correct order, or should I have pumped the forks with the only the upper tree pinch bolts snugged?

Also, the shop manual states the steering stem nut should be torqued to 57.9 - 86.8 ft-lbs... That seems high to me. I just tightened it with a large adjustable wrench (my guess is about 40 ft-lbs).... should I go back and crank this nut down more?

Thanks, I really appreciate your help.

[HondaMan]

For future reference, when I fix up my other bikes, I want to make sure I do it correctly the first time.  Is this the correct order?:

• Bike on center-stand with jack under the engine
• Instal the lower tree, tightening the adjusting nut as specified in your book
• Assemble the upper tree and lightly thread the crown nut (chrome steering nut)
• Slide in the forks - snug down the upper tree pinch bolts (making sure the D-washer is in place)
• Tighten the crown nut
• Assemble the front fender, wheel (skipped - I put the wheel on later), and brake - I tightened them Tighten them now - or just snug?
• This is where I get a little confused - your book states pumping the forks while grabbing the brake, but is this possible with none of the fork pinch bolts tightened? (the top tree pinch bolts were only "snugged")
• Tighten the lower triple tree pinch bolts
• Lower the jack - putting on the wheel
• This is where I pumped the forks
• Tighten the upper triple tree pinch bolts  - making sure to tighten the one around the crown nut 

Is this the correct order, or should I have pumped the forks with the only the upper tree pinch bolts snugged?

Also, the shop manual states the steering stem nut should be torqued to 57.9 - 86.8 ft-lbs... That seems high to me. I just tightened it with a large adjustable wrench (my guess is about 40 ft-lbs).... should I go back and crank this nut down more?

Thanks, I really appreciate your help.

Almost right: the general idea includes bouncing the front wheel on the ground with the brake applied, with the fork brace bolts just snug and the lower tree bolts loose, so as to final-align the fork lowers to the fork brace and the lower tree. This all comes about because the looseness of the lowers lets them cock to one side when you tighten the front axle caps, so this motion lets the forks align to the tubes before you tighten them in place.

So, be sure to install the front wheel and remove that jack so the wheel is on the ground, supporting the bike via the top tree and slightly snugged fork brace. Lock that front brake and bounce the front a few times, but don't pull up on the handlebars at the end, just slide off the bike. Then tighten everything just as it sits. This helps ensure good alignments and smooth fork operation.

When installing tapered steering bearings, go ahead and tighten them to about 50 ft-lbs, turn the bars side-to-side several times, then loosen the spanner nut about 1/2 turn and tighten it back down to about 25-40 ft-lbs. (this is the big nut under the top tree.) The tapered bearings ride much larger surface area than the old balls, so less torque is needed to provide good control. High torque makes for a heavy feel to the steering. After a few hundred miles, repeat the tightening process, as the bearing will settle in a little bit.

[Redrider969]

Is you book still available through you?

[HondaMan]

Is you book still available through you?

Yep, or through my website (see below) or from Lulu.com. See the first post in this section for ordering details. 

[the-wu]

Which source is best? (i.e which will have less fees for you?)

About to order one, but i want to do good for you too!

[HondaMan]

Which source is best? (i.e which will have less fees for you?)

About to order one, but i want to do good for you too!

The less-fees route is at www.lulu.com . If you're in a hurry, I have a few on hand, mostly for those who wanted it signed (for whatever reason someone thinks I should write in their book?). The hardcover is the better bet and value, even if you have to wait the week to get it.

[the-wu]

ordered from lulu =) cant wait to go through it!

[MFHP]

received my hard cover copy yesterday from Lulu. This book is awesome. Couldn't put it back down again. Got real late last night which gives me a hard time at work today. This book contains most valuable information you get nowhere else and have always been seeking for even if you have one of the late 77/78 models which I have (a 77 K with some mods).
great.

Mike

[babyfood1217]

Mark, I just placed my LULU order for the paperback.  Looking forward to tearing through it repeatedly.  It's hard not having a feasible bike to work on right now, but with the book (and of course, this site) I'm sure I'll have my ducks lined up in a row for when that special little two wheeled knocks again at my door.

-Chris

[speed8988]

I got the book and loved it.

[SKTP]

I am about to buy the book...hoping for a little more feedback from owners of the book...just because $100 for a book is pretty steep for me...but if its that good...I'll do it!

(first rebuild ever. I'm pretty sure I'm snagging one..but I do already have the Hanes, Clymer and Honda Manuals)