Author Topic: Upgrading The Charging System on a CB550 (Read 32094 times)

Caseygroh1 · « **on:** February 10, 2010, 08:41:42 PM »

hey guys, I've been wondering how I can upgrade the charging system on my 75 cb550. I'm planning on getting solid state regulator and rectifiers. I'm also building a new wiring harness. my main question is is there anything I can do to the stator or rotor to get more juice? does the cb650 or 750 stator or rotor fit on the 550? I know there are lots of aftermarket stators for other bikes, are there any for the 550?

bryanj · « **Reply #1 on:** February 10, 2010, 08:43:26 PM »

Basically the answer is nope, all you can do is make sure all connections are clean and good

Caseygroh1 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 10, 2010, 08:46:39 PM »

well that sucks. I'll have to make do.

HondaMan · « **Reply #3 on:** February 10, 2010, 08:56:19 PM »

Like Bryan said...

You can try to balance things out a little better, but that's about all. Use HID headlight instead of halogen for more brightness and even less current than the stock headlight, that's a start. Make sure the voltage regulator's contacts are clean and shiny, like new points: that's another. Make sure the GREEN grounds are clean, everywhere, especially at the frame. Install a #1034 tail bulb, as it was the original type (today's #1157 non-Stanley bulbs use considerably more current). Disconnect the front running lamps in the turn signals, that can help.

All the little things together make a significant difference! When the bkes were new, they did OK with the systems: today, you will find that the batteries from most cut-rate joints are far poorer quality than, say, Yuasa or a good AGM type of battery, and this causes poor storage and erratic field current in the alternator, making less output overall. A good battery for these bikes will cost over $50.

NickC · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2010, 09:02:12 PM »

Don't buy a battery from autozone, i think that is the problem I am having now

edbikerii · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2010, 09:51:26 PM »

Don't bother with the solid state reg/rect. It won't do any good. Ask me how I know.

Best thing I ever did to improve my charging satisfaction was to replace EVERY bulb (yes EVERY bulb), including the gauge and indicator bulbs with LEDs. 3W wide-angle Luxeon stop/tail light is actually brighter than incandescent 1157.

Good luck

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2010, 11:23:42 PM »

mikesxs.com has awesome sealed AGM's for our bikes.

If you want an electronic regulator the Wells VR650 is a Porsche item that works great. 30$ at autozone.

dave500 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 11, 2010, 01:45:31 AM »

im using a boldor rec/reg,i like it,nice and stable voltage,i have a vdo voltmeter mounted between the tach and speedo.

edbikerii · « **Reply #8 on:** February 11, 2010, 06:11:33 AM »

Just to clarify: I'm not saying that the solid state regulators/rectifiers are no good, I'm only saying that they are no better than the mechanical regulator that Honda supplied on the CB550.

Well, actually, the mechanical regulator is adjustable, so...

Of course, I'm assuming that the mechanical regulator has been maintained in good condition.

dave500 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 12, 2010, 01:49:56 AM »

the stock rectifier and electromechanical reg go in the bin when ever i get them.

B.O.X.N.I.F.E. · « **Reply #10 on:** February 12, 2010, 02:16:44 AM »

Quote from: HondaMan on February 10, 2010, 08:56:19 PM

Like Bryan said...

You can try to balance things out a little better, but that's about all. Use HID headlight instead of halogen for more brightness and even less current than the stock headlight, that's a start. Make sure the voltage regulator's contacts are clean and shiny, like new points: that's another. Make sure the GREEN grounds are clean, everywhere, especially at the frame. Install a #1034 tail bulb, as it was the original type (today's #1157 non-Stanley bulbs use considerably more current). Disconnect the front running lamps in the turn signals, that can help.

All the little things together make a significant difference! When the bkes were new, they did OK with the systems: today, you will find that the batteries from most cut-rate joints are far poorer quality than, say, Yuasa or a good AGM type of battery, and this causes poor storage and erratic field current in the alternator, making less output overall. A good battery for these bikes will cost over $50.

How do you disconnect the front running lights and still maintain their blinking ability?

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 12, 2010, 02:46:23 AM »

check the wire schematic for your bike, there should be 2 wires that come from the lights, just have to unplug one of them from the harness.

Bodi · « **Reply #12 on:** February 12, 2010, 05:34:45 AM »

"the stock rectifier and electromechanical reg go in the bin when ever i get them"

Ok, you have lots of cash and don't mind wasting it.
The stock rectifier is adequate and no replacement rectifier will work better. No replacement rectifier will produce more power. If the stock rectifier's internal diodes are blown - and they can be destroyed instantly by reverse wiring a battery - then install a cheaper replacement. There is no magic in the stock one just as there is no magic in a replacement.
The stock electromechanical regulators work fine. There is no magic in an electronic regulator that can make more power from the alternator. In theory an electronic one will always produce slightly less power than an electromechanical one: power semiconductors have an inherent characteristic voltage drop which will reduce the field coil current at maximum output - the original relay contact is capable of a "perfect" connection. A good electronic regulator can give a somewhat smoother voltage over time but the stock regulator's minor fluctuations are harmless.
If you have a shunner on against the original parts then bin them at will. You can imagine you've improved the bike immensely, but really you've just changed it a bit.

HondaMan · « **Reply #13 on:** February 13, 2010, 08:18:32 AM »

There are some "reg/rec" units out there (OregonCycles comes to mind) that convert the alternator coils into a Kawasaki-like shunt regulated system. While this raises the battery voltage on the 500/550 bikes where we've seen it used here at SOHC4, it also severly increases heating of the windings, which has often resulted in failure of the enamel/epoxy insulation and shorted out the alternator coils. If the bike is only riden once in a while, like Saturday night to the local drive-in with friends, it may survive this method for quite a while. If it is used in commuter or touring service, it will probably see the alternator fail in less than one season, based on the last few years' experience we have here.

You can "hot wire" the alternator to see if the regulator is acting up from burned/pitted points: jumper between the BLACK and WHITE wires at the regulator and ride for a while. This traps the field coil to full current to max out the alternator, and will not hurt it. It will also make the lights dim more at stopsigns, because the field load is not being dropped out at low speed.

Ed: I'm thinking of those LEDs in my 750 instruments: how does the brightness appear at night? (Old eyes, ya know..) (sorry for the hijack...).

edbikerii · « **Reply #14 on:** February 13, 2010, 08:37:04 AM »

They are great at night. They are more white (seems bluer), but it makes them look newer. If you get the diffused LED bulbs for the indicators (not the focused LEDs) they won't blind you, either.

cb750k77 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 13, 2010, 08:41:24 AM »

actually my upgrade for my electrical:

Led Turn signals...
LED brake lights
Cleaned ALL Green grounds and re-did connectors
installed ALL new harness plugs and packed with dialectric greese
installed Solid state seperate Rec/Reg
installed new Fuse box... (blade type)
installed 35w HID headlight from vleds.com- VERY bright!

that solved any problems i would of had the bike runs good and charges well! i have no issues with charging at all!
infact my battery seems to last a little longer it doesnt seem to boil the battery as much i'm going on year #2 with this battery!

HondaMan · « **Reply #16 on:** February 13, 2010, 08:50:53 AM »

Quote from: edbikerii on February 13, 2010, 08:37:04 AM

They are great at night. They are more white (seems bluer), but it makes them look newer. If you get the diffused LED bulbs for the indicators (not the focused LEDs) they won't blind you, either.

Very cool. I'm gonna try to find a set. Thanks!

Soos · « **Reply #17 on:** February 13, 2010, 09:32:43 AM »

I like threads like this.

Every watt counts on these old maxed out electrical systems IMO.

l8r

cb750k77 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 13, 2010, 09:50:15 AM »

i think i've trimmed mine down too like 7amps running (if my memory serves me right) and it runs great i have never had a RRRR RRRR RRR on he starter like i did b4

its not fun having to turn off the headlight and kick start your bike when it has a perfectly good elec start!!! IMO!!!

so that was my "drive" for fixing the charging system infact i dont even hear the starter n e more! it just starts! it starts sooo fast that you cant even hear the starter kick on!

its nice having a newish electrical plus the LED brake light is a nice bling bling!

edbikerii · « **Reply #19 on:** February 13, 2010, 11:53:55 AM »

I got mine from www.superbrightleds.com

Check out this post I made last year:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40982.msg573937#msg573937

Quote from: HondaMan on February 13, 2010, 08:50:53 AM

Quote from: edbikerii on February 13, 2010, 08:37:04 AM
They are great at night. They are more white (seems bluer), but it makes them look newer. If you get the diffused LED bulbs for the indicators (not the focused LEDs) they won't blind you, either.

Very cool. I'm gonna try to find a set. Thanks!

edbikerii · « **Reply #20 on:** February 13, 2010, 12:13:00 PM »

Oh, and here's a picture I posted last year of the gauges:

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=40982.msg573678#msg573678

Quote from: edbikerii on February 13, 2010, 08:37:04 AM

They are great at night. They are more white (seems bluer), but it makes them look newer. If you get the diffused LED bulbs for the indicators (not the focused LEDs) they won't blind you, either.

TomC · « **Reply #21 on:** February 13, 2010, 03:18:49 PM »

Hi HondaMan & Group
Using a shunt type regulator when you can actually control the output of the alternator sounds very half assed to me. Mark by the way my Regulator is not a shunt type. At redline the regulator draws less than 1/10 amp and less under redline. There are problems with how Honda set the regulator up on the SOHC4 that need to be worked with but to just wire them wide open all the time?

Quote from: HondaMan on February 13, 2010, 08:18:32 AM

There are some "reg/rec" units out there (OregonCycles comes to mind) that convert the alternator coils into a Kawasaki-like shunt regulated system. While this raises the battery voltage on the 500/550 bikes where we've seen it used here at SOHC4, it also severly increases heating of the windings, which has often resulted in failure of the enamel/epoxy insulation and shorted out the alternator coils. If the bike is only riden once in a while, like Saturday night to the local drive-in with friends, it may survive this method for quite a while. If it is used in commuter or touring service, it will probably see the alternator fail in less than one season, based on the last few years' experience we have here.

You can "hot wire" the alternator to see if the regulator is acting up from burned/pitted points: jumper between the BLACK and WHITE wires at the regulator and ride for a while. This traps the field coil to full current to max out the alternator, and will not hurt it. It will also make the lights dim more at stopsigns, because the field load is not being dropped out at low speed.

Ed: I'm thinking of those LEDs in my 750 instruments: how does the brightness appear at night? (Old eyes, ya know..) (sorry for the hijack...).

TomC · « **Reply #22 on:** February 13, 2010, 03:37:52 PM »

Hi Non 750 SOHC4 Owners
One thing that has not been talked about here. At idle there is a large discharge from the battery. Once you are going down the road at speed the battery is being recharged. So if you can reduce the amount of time you are at idle or low speed the less work the charging system will need to do to recharge the battery. Any thing that can be off when stopped will help. Once the cage behind you has stopped do you need the brake light on? If you are in a turn lane do you need the turn signals on? Your call!
If you live in a headlight on all the time state what else needs to be on? A switch to turn off the instrument lights off would save about 1 amp.
My current regular ride is a CB750F1. I have no problems. Even when I use my electric vest. All I have done is a lot of contact cleaning.
TomC in Ohio

NickC · « **Reply #23 on:** February 13, 2010, 03:56:04 PM »

along with all this, does anyone have a good source of supply for wires/contacts/etc? I am wanting to build a harness from scratch to replace the shoddy wiring on my bike

edbikerii · « **Reply #24 on:** February 13, 2010, 04:55:12 PM »

TomC, the 750 has a much higher output than the 550. I don't have the specs in front of me, but I think the 750 is something like 210 watts, whereas the 550 is maybe 150.

News:

Author Topic: Upgrading The Charging System on a CB550 (Read 32094 times)