Topic: carb cleaning question (warning: dummy inside)

[the architect]

Thanks for all the input! 

I'm pretty good about laying things out in the order I disassemble them and keeping track of how things go back together.  I'm feeling much less intimidated than I was.  I'm hoping to tackle it this weekend, so I'll update my adventure soon.

There doesn't seem to be any varnish on the slides, and the seem to function smoothly.  The orifice / opening when closed varies a bit from carb to carb, so I'm thinking a re-sync will be in order.  I don't have a set of vacuum gauges or the mercury sync tool, but I have a nearby vintage bike shop that said they could do the sync for $40 - 50. 

It's possible that a PO replaced some or all of the seals and o-rings.  If they don't appear dry and brittle, is it same to assume they can be reused? 

[Duke McDukiedook]

Assume they didn't and order the rebuild sets.

If you pulled them out you might as well change your gaskets and seals while they are apart and out.

The Keyster kits will work fine for your bike, just don't use the needles if you want to change everything out. As long as the jets are not worn out or deteriorated or gunked to hell or not stock you shouldn't have to change those either.

[Sporkfly]

I would replace all seals regardless of appearance.

[Colonel]

I do agree with previous posts.
Do not let the carbs intimidate you.
I have a CB 750 K5 and this is my first classic bike; hence my very first carb cleaning job has been don on this one...
I researched the forum and used http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/carb/carb.htm

If you are organized this is pretty simple and once again, you have a lot of valuable help on this forum... especially around the carburetor topic.

[Bodi]

I would avoid Berryman dipping a complete rack, as you imagine the stuff would attack any rubber parts. This is very nasty stuff! Simple green does a fairly good job and doesn't eat plastic or rubber.
Berrymans is much better at cleaning really gunked up carbs but removing plastic and rubber parts is imperative. With it and a bit (OK, a lot!) of elbow grease working with toothbrushes and such you can get the carbs looking almost new - the casting metal never comes up as bright as new but they look really great. If you're going for a concours restore then disassembling the individual carbs and dipping the castings, plus replating all the steel throttle parts, is de rigeur. To clean up a rack so they work, external cleaning is a luxury - you need to clean the insides of the carbs: all the hidden passages and the emulsion tubes are the key parts to go after. You will likely need new float valves and gaskets for the bowls and caps. A bit of oil on the throttle shaft "bearings" and such should get you going with no problems.