Topic: cb750 carb rebuild questions

[jscro73]

looking to rebuild my carbs and i'm wondering if i should replace the jets and needle valve, or if they generally dont wear out.
i see kits that replace everything for around $70-$80, and then i see oem kits that just replace the gaskets, but are honda service kits for the same price without new jets, etc.
what do you guys think i should do? go for the whole after market kit, or go with the honda service parts and dont worry about the jets?

thanks, Jason

[Bowswell]

48$ for 4 Part#48-1908   https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=cb750_sohc&category=carb

[jscro73]

i like that. thanks!

[76CB5WI]

Dip those carb bodies and do the orings between each carb too.
Nock the emulsion tubes out and dip them too if your up to it.

[SOHC Digger]

What style carbs are they?

[Gordon]

The brass parts don't generally wear out.  I'd stick with the stock ones if given the choice.  Of course the gaskets and o-rings should be replaced with new ones.

[HondaMan]

looking to rebuild my carbs and i'm wondering if i should replace the jets and needle valve, or if they generally dont wear out.
i see kits that replace everything for around $70-$80, and then i see oem kits that just replace the gaskets, but are honda service kits for the same price without new jets, etc.
what do you guys think i should do? go for the whole after market kit, or go with the honda service parts and dont worry about the jets?

thanks, Jason

These carbs don't wear out very much. At 138,000 miles on mine, the needle jets are slightly oval: turning them 180 degrees in their holes restored the proper mix again. The needles wear a hair, but not so much as to need replacement, ever. Most of the time the parts get damaged, bent, or something along those lines, then need replacement. But, 99% of the time a careful, thorough cleaning will bring the parts back to 100% performance.

The float valves are probably the most-damaged parts inside the carbs (except for possibly the early carbs' brass floats) from a combination of water and MTBE-enhanced fuels of the 1980s. Once in a while those little valves (and maybe the seats) will need replacement: the test is to connect to a full fuel tank, remove the float bowl cover, then lift the float until it just barely closes the valve, but has not closed the spring plunger. It should seal and stop the fuel. If it does not, it is leaking a little and should probably be replaced.

But again: my carbs still have original float valves and needles, at 138,000 miles...