Topic: 1975 Supersport, performance cafe

[brandEn]

Yea your bike is gonna be NICE. Looks good.

[fastbroshi]

  This may be a silly question D, but why are you degreeing your cam?  I thought this could only be done with valvetrains that were adjustable, eg a motor with adjustable cam sprockets.   
  Also, six degrees is a pretty fair amount to be off wouldn't you say?  Admittedly I've never done this before so I'm watching more videos on the subject.  If I'm off base please correct me.

[bwaller]

Wow looking super, I've missed your thread until now. I have to admit I'm digging the silver frame lately. I've had a beauty blue Rickman with silver frame as my screensaver for a while....kinda copied it for my own. 

When I was checking tolerances my degreed cam nearly matched M-Cycles card, and on final assembly the numbers wouldn't quite, although I double checked everything, just a matter of indicator placement or something. Set by LC's anyway.

Classy finish to the project Dave, I'll watch more closely.

[MRieck]

Dave Are you taking your indicator readings off the rocker arm tip or the retainer? hard to tell from the photo. I would recommend using the retainer. Any difference in the opening/closing can be split between the 2 #'s. 26/50 gives you 102LC...it has to be retarded a bit more. As an aside..i always check my cam #'s with the running clearance. You just subtract the clearance from the opening closing #'s

[Doctor_D]

  This may be a silly question D, but why are you degreeing your cam?  I thought this could only be done with valvetrains that were adjustable, eg a motor with adjustable cam sprockets.

I am using an adjustable cam sprocket.  Because of production tolerances, tossing the cam in "straight up" generally doesn't produce the best results.

And thanks Waller and Mike... I don't degree in cams every day, so its a tedious process just to get the degree wheel a dial guage perfect.

Mike, the cam card says to degree with "zero lash" and "at the valve." I was using the rocker tip as a proxy, but will try your suggestion.

[754]

 Chrome & Stainless goodies are on the way to you..

[Doctor_D]

Got the cam degree'd and the motor buttoned up on Saturday.  Then everything went in the frame.





The punch list is still a million miles long, but we're getting closer.

Need:
-new throttle
-new clutch cable
-clutch cover
-stainless fasteners
-turn signals
-tail light
-seat-pan with upholstery
-oil lines
-spin-on filter adapter and oil cooler lines
-rear brake line
-rear fender
-grips
-mirrors

To do:
-pinstriping and clearcoat
-complete and tape wiring harness
-mount tail light and turn signals
-weld closed rebound damper holes in forks
-make front wheel spacer
-make aluminum rear brake torque-link
-turn and polish stainless bolt heads
-make bracket for Vapor speedo/tach, and install/wire
-install rear brake line and bleed brakes
-install any of the above not already mentioned.

[Doctor_D]

Chrome & Stainless goodies are on the way to you..

Sweet.  Can't wait.  Got the upper rear mount on.  Looks great and will look even better when I polish it.

[scroggins5000]

If you're going to do the spin on oil filter adapter, then be sure to check that you will have enough clearance with your exhaust.

[jaguar]

looking great.
cant get over how well the colors work

what are you planing on doing for a rear inner fender?

[Doctor_D]

what are you planing on doing for a rear inner fender?

No clue.  Thought I was going to get a NOS plastic inner fender, sand it, and lay a few coats of black PLASBAK aerosol (flexible plastic bumper paint).  Unfortunately, now that I've modified the frame, it doesn't seem like it's going to fit.

Not my preference, but I may have to make a mold and glass something up.

[Doctor_D]

Quick update, out of town for work so no photos.

Heard from home that my painter dropped off the oil tank, fork brace, and fuel tank filler lid.  Also, Frank's (aka 754) motor mount bits arrived. Now I can get the tinwork off for pinstriping and put the actual motor mounts on.

As for the punch-list...

Need:
-new throttle new Gunnar Gasser replaces dog-eared one.  With the ratio on the CR's throttle linkage, this is a 1/6th turn throttle.    That doesn't leave much room for fine-grained throttle application.  I'll need to see how that works out on the street and may want to go to a higher ratio.
-new clutch cable
-clutch cover
-stainless fasteners
-turn signals
-tail light
-seat-pan with upholstery
-oil lines
-spin-on filter adapter and oil cooler lines (still looking at options as clearance to pipes is an issue)
-rear brake line
-rear fender
-grips
-mirrors

To do:
-pinstriping and clearcoat
-complete and tape wiring harness (made some progress, but still a long way to go)
-mount tail light and turn signals
-weld closed rebound damper holes in forks
-make front wheel spacer
-make aluminum rear brake torque-link
-turn and polish stainless bolt heads
-make bracket for Vapor speedo/tach, and install/wire
-install rear brake line and bleed brakes
-install carbs and throttle cable
-install any of the above not already mentioned

Should be ready to get a couple of heat cycles on the reassembled top-end next weekend, and perhaps get her back on the dyno.  Curious to see what the bigger 125-75 cam does to the numbers.  Fingers crossed.

[754]

 If the spin-on has too much clearance problem, could smooth off a stock filter can, like a sandcast uses.
 I never was a fan of spin-ons, prefer to inspect what is sitting in the filter housing at oil change time..

[greenjeans]

Man - the level of projects going on here have really elevated.   

Well done Doctor.... well done.

[Doctor_D]

If the spin-on has too much clearance problem, could smooth off a stock filter can, like a sandcast uses.
 I never was a fan of spin-ons, prefer to inspect what is sitting in the filter housing at oil change time..

I was thinking that that would work, but need to find a buggered stock filter housing to test the theory before I mutilate a clean example.  If I remove a few fins, or perhaps just a portion of the fins, it should clear the exhaust.

Man - the level of projects going on here have really elevated.    

Well done Doctor.... well done.

Welcome greenjeans and thanks for the kind words.

In response to your PM regarding the seat/tail - it's hand formed from mild steel.  My fabricator made up a few prototypes before making this one, mainly to fit K bikes, and has a few left.  I'll inquire as to price if you're interested.  For what it's worth, he did such a nice job that it hardly required any filler to get it straight and smooth.

[greenjeans]

Very interested - please let me know.   Thanks, John

[Doctor_D]

Put some heat cycles on it tonight.  Starts easily, runs well, and is unbelievably loud.



Dyno runs this weekend.

[jaguar]

sounds good.


will be nice to see some numbers from it

[ivanhoew]

really really nice , thanks for the thread ..incidentally , are the float heights right ? this can cause a big jet if they are too low .

[Doctor_D]

really really nice , thanks for the thread ..incidentally , are the float heights right ? this can cause a big jet if they are too low .

Heh, good point.  Nothing else was set up right on my CR29's, why should the floats be any different. The obvious things are sometimes the easiest to overlook.

[750]

Hope you guys don't mind if I tag along this is by far the coolest build I've read about

[brandEn]

I love this build. I hope to see it in person sometime. That tail is kickass. Wish I would of had your guy build me a metal one. My bike is gonna orange as well.

[HondaMan]

Got the cam degree'd and the motor buttoned up on Saturday.  Then everything went in the frame.





The punch list is still a million miles long, but we're getting closer.

Need:
-new throttle
-new clutch cable
-clutch cover
-stainless fasteners
-turn signals
-tail light
-seat-pan with upholstery
-oil lines
-spin-on filter adapter and oil cooler lines
-rear brake line
-rear fender
-grips
-mirrors

To do:
-pinstriping and clearcoat
-complete and tape wiring harness
-mount tail light and turn signals
-weld closed rebound damper holes in forks
-make front wheel spacer
-make aluminum rear brake torque-link
-turn and polish stainless bolt heads
-make bracket for Vapor speedo/tach, and install/wire
-install rear brake line and bleed brakes
-install any of the above not already mentioned.

The longer the list, the closer to the end you are (in my experience  ). That's when my OCD kicks in and the list changes from "rebuild the bike" to all those details...

Who made that tail piece for you? I'd like to start making flare jet-tail fenders again, like were so popular in the '70s. I'd rather have them done in metal than glass, tho, as the old glass ones often cracked. They could become my signature cafe' part.   

[Doctor_D]

Who made that tail piece for you? I'd like to start making flare jet-tail fenders again, like were so popular in the '70s. I'd rather have them done in metal than glass, tho, as the old glass ones often cracked. They could become my signature cafe' part.    

The tail is hand formed in steel on an English wheel, and wasn't cheap.  Jeff at Twinline Motorcycles makes them a few at a time and they really are works of art.  Their website is here: http://new.twinlinemotorcycles.com/
 

[tweakin]

Simply awesome David.  It sounds so good, but soooo loud, lol.  Hope you get the numbers you are after.