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Want to swap Comstars for Spokes

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eurban:
Jay-  I did the Gl1000 front conversion (78750K). Check out some pics in the gallery section . . .Your list seems pretty complete.  You may want the GL instrument bracket too as the 750s bracket doesn't mount up without mods.  You will have to decide if it is easier to adapt your guages to the GLbracket or your 750 bracket to the GL trees.   Get the the tapered bearing kit for the GL.  That worked fine for me. I used a the chrome CB750 nut at the top because it looked cooler.  The 750  ignition switch should work fine.  Also the GLs trees have a good bit more rise and backset to the handlebar location than the f2/f3 trees so you will find your handlebars a bit higher and farther back when mounted.  I used drag bars on my project but with the very large 78K tank on the bike interference between the switchgear and tank (perhaps the headlight ears too) was a problem.  I modified the steering stops to deal with the issue.  The F2/F3 tank is probably not as wide so you may not have any issues. Remember that  GL1000s are touring bikes and often see alot of mileage so be carefule with the parts you buy.  "Upgrading" to a set of warn out forks is not an upgrade at all- rebuilding and seals won't fix some issues.  I went a bit crazy and used new forks tubes and legs with refurbed interiors.  Progressive suspension springs and 10w oil make for a sweet ride.  Also the GL alloy DID rims are annodized and you cannot polish out scratches without messing up the look so if you care about those things then be warned.  Finnally, the GL calipers have issues with piston corrosion and bolt siezure so be careful there as well.  The bolts that hold the caliper halves together can get really stuck and I lost  a couple of calipers before I found a workable set. Left and right are not interchangeable nor are the carriers.  I had a pair of stainless pistons made.  I also drilled my rotors. . . .Good luck

dusterdude:

--- Quote from: quietlikeachurch on January 12, 2006, 11:46:58 PM ---Hello Jay,

I checked into the GL1000 conversion myself ('77 750F - hated the comstars) about two years ago.  The GL wheel will not fit the F2/3 calipers as the rotor spacing is different, and F2/3 rotors won't bolt on to the GL wheel (5-hole vs. 6-hole).  I wouldn't recommend machining your triple trees.  Keep looking for a complete GL front end - the triple trees are a bit beefier than the 750's, and the calipers mount a little differently than on the CBs.  Removing/replacing forks, even rebuilding them, is easier than it seems so don't be afraid of it.  Just make sure that everything is straight and all bolts are tight on reinstallation (don't forget the tapered steering bearing kit).  I'm with Terry on the F1 rear wheel, but be sure that you use the F2 sprocket carrier or else the drive chain won't line up!  Me, I just gave up on the conversion; I decided to save money and deal with the comstars...and somehow I actually grew to like 'em.

Good luck!
-Ian

--- End quote ---
church man,you have 77 and up wheels,they use the 5 hole rotor.the 75-76 use the 6 hole rotor

theunrulychef:
Hey I'm still trying to gather stuff for my Comstar / Spokes switcharoo.  I've found this one on ebay, but it doesn't have the sproket side of the hub (cush drive?).  Does anyone know if I'd be able to use the part from my comstar rear wheel, or if I would need to get a cush drive from another F wheel?  Also, does the cush drive from a drum brake K wheel fit into the F series spoked wheel, since the F ones come up for sale so much less?

I'm waiting on a goldwing front wheel w/ rotors to arrive in the mail.  I'm hoping that it'll just pop in & I'll be ok with a little shimming - we'll see.

Thanks,
Jay in Philly

eurban:
Jay-  Not to be a party pooper but I am quite sure that the Gl wheel is not going pop into your front end.  The space between the GL forks is between 3/4" and 1" wider than the 750 setup and there is only about 1/4 of space between the rotor and the fork leg on stock GL setup.  SImply put the rotors will not fit between your stock fork legs.  Shimming is not going to help here.  You could try installing two K type rotors (same bolt pattern as the GL) as they dont off set out like the GL ones but I think that they are larger diameter and could very likely have other clearance issues.  Also do you know whether the rotors on the F2/F3 are the same thickness as the rotors on the GL?  If the F2/F3s are thinner then you may find that your calipers simply wont fit over the GLor 750K  rotors even if you can get things to fit and line up.  Machining down the rotors is a possibility but you might as well spend your time and $ on the rest of the Gl parts you need to make it work like Honda engineered to.

theunrulychef:
Yeah, I kinda planned on having problems switching it out - I haven't rebuilt anything up front yet, as I'm waiting to see whether or not I'm even going to have the same forks, brakes etc.  I've mainly been rebuilding the rear end & working on my tank while I wait for the parts to arrive in the mail.  If I didn't work all the damned time, I could go down to the bike wrecker we have in town, but alas, I have to shop online & wait for everything to arrive.  Perhaps I'll have to be "sick" so I can go down there and get what I need.  I might even just rebuild everything & polish up the comstars so I can ride for a bit.  Then, when I gather all the parts for a conversion, I could do it over a weekend or something.

Anyone have any tips about the rear wheel & whether the K / F1 / F2 sproket drives are the same?

Thanks,
Jay in Philly

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