Author Topic: Conversion of rear brake hub- from rigid to cable activated (Read 15382 times)

CPHjimm · « **on:** February 23, 2010, 08:06:48 AM »

Gent's

Im not quite sure if this is the right forum. but i'll give it a try.

As I present cant afford a CR replica rear hub so I would like to convert my org. rear brake hub with a cable.

my question are: what have you guys done to hold the "outer" cable to the hub. (hope that makes sense)

My plan was to make a small bracket and bolt it on the rear hub, but I dont really like drilling holes to the brake drum.

The picture indicates what im looking for.

thx in advance.

/Jimmy

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #1 on:** February 23, 2010, 08:33:01 AM »

If your rear hub is 7inch, you can addapt the front twin leading shoe brake from a CB160, it allready has the cable anchor point.

Sam.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2010, 08:54:42 AM »

Nice tip, Sam! Is the CB160 front a 40-spoke? Thanks. RR

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2010, 09:02:55 AM »

Not the hub Ted, just the brake plate.

It makes the stock 7inch hub look like the one in the picture.

Sam.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2010, 09:25:19 AM »

Oops. Thanks, Sam. I realized it after I posted. Looks like something I'll have to try...

I'm working on fitting a flipped/rotated CB77 2LS rear wheel to an SOHC chassis now along with a lightened Suzuki 4LS/Ceriani RR combo to the front; unfortunately both 36-spoke. I will have to drill/fit a cable stay in this case.

PITA to find a 36-spoke Akront rear to match the front, but a friend just gave me one. Should be interesting. RR

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #5 on:** February 23, 2010, 09:28:01 AM »

I didn't do the conversion and we used a custom plate, using the stock CB160 plate gives you twin trailing shoes

I'll have to check it out.

Sam.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #6 on:** February 23, 2010, 09:37:07 AM »

Sam, someone over on your side of the Big Pond used to make replacement plates for the Suzuki 4LS that looked like Ceriani plates. Since I can't afford a full Ceriani 4LS repro, I'd love to find a (used, affordable) set of the side plates to use on this build. Know of any?

RR

BLUE71TURBO · « **Reply #7 on:** February 23, 2010, 10:18:24 AM »

Why use a drum brake? Why not use a disc brake setup? Is it for class racing rules or just for the original nostalgia factor?

kos · « **Reply #8 on:** February 23, 2010, 10:39:37 AM »

here is what i do at m3

A standard rear brake panel with machined lug welded on. Could be bolted on, I suppose... but not safe for racing use.

KOS

Phil · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2010, 11:18:29 AM »

KOS - are you selling these through-mounted footrests, pedal and cables? If so, where can I find the details?

lordmoonpie · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2010, 12:08:52 PM »

I believe Phil Denton does replacement brake plates too - www.phildentonengineering.com

BLUE71TURBO · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:00:35 PM »

Quote from: BLUE71TURBO on February 23, 2010, 10:18:24 AM

Why use a drum brake? Why not use a disc brake setup? Is it for class racing rules or just for the original nostalgia factor?

ANYBODY ?

CPHjimm · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:18:48 PM »

thx guys.. knew you guys where up to it

@Sam, I looked at ebay, I must admit I have no clue about the cb160 but i could not see the anchor point on this add..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-1967-Honda-CB160-Rear-Brake-Plate_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51805bdf6dQQitemZ350045855597QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

@Mark, I thought of that as well, but í wasnt quite sure about the casted material and was afraid that it would crack., but again, if its get preheated and covered up afterward. it might help. and yes that fodrest w brake looks sweet

@Blue7, its all about the nostagia factor, all about the nostagia factor

@LMP. where do you get all thoose good links from. feels like Ive been serching on sites like that for ever

hmmm, I might go with the welded solution.... more inputs?

Doctor_D · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:28:04 PM »

Blue:

I think Jimmy is doing a CR replica, or something similar.

For what it's worth, there's nothing all that wrong with drums. I've ridden properly set up 4LS's on a few Manx that would surprise you.

An AP Lockheed expert has been quoted as saying, "Every thing you can do with a disk you can do cheaper and easier with a drum". The one place he saw a real need for disk brakes was racing as they are less prone to fade. For road use it isn't an issue, and with adequate cooling isn't really much of an issue in classic racing either.

When disk brakes became the norm for roadracers, the privateer machines generally retained drum brakes. This may have something to do with the vastly increased 'feel' you get with a cable operated drum compared to the "woodenness" of early disks.

Ricky_Racer · « **Reply #14 on:** February 23, 2010, 01:47:15 PM »

Quote from: BLUE71TURBO on February 23, 2010, 01:00:35 PM

Quote from: BLUE71TURBO on February 23, 2010, 10:18:24 AM
Why use a drum brake? Why not use a disc brake setup? Is it for class racing rules or just for the original nostalgia factor?

ANYBODY ?

Because WE CAN!

RR

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #15 on:** February 23, 2010, 09:57:22 PM »

Quote from: CPHjimm on February 23, 2010, 01:18:48 PM

thx guys.. knew you guys where up to it

@Sam, I looked at ebay, I must admit I have no clue about the cb160 but i could not see the anchor point on this add..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-1967-Honda-CB160-Rear-Brake-Plate_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem51805bdf6dQQitemZ350045855597QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Jim, 2 reasons for no clue

the brake plate in the ebay sale is not a CB160 and I did say to use the front brake plate from the CB160

Sam.

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #16 on:** February 23, 2010, 10:16:51 PM »

Jimmy, after looking at it in more depth, the idea would not work. My old brain is finding it hard to remember what the set up was that we used, it was a few years back.
I do know we had a custom brake plate made with air scoops and used the shoes and leavers from the CB160.
To use the CB160 front brake would create 2 problems. First, because it is reversed, the brake would become trailing instead of leading shoe and second, the brake anchor point would be in the wrong place.
It would be easier all round if you just used the parts that Mark (KOS) suplies.

http://www.m3racing.com/

Sam.

paulages · « **Reply #17 on:** February 23, 2010, 10:50:51 PM »

i had a spare cb350 front hub, which i cut the mount off of and welded it to the backing plate.

CPHjimm · « **Reply #18 on:** February 24, 2010, 12:07:03 AM »

[/quote]

Jim, 2 reasons for no clue

the brake plate in the ebay sale is not a CB160 and I did say to use the front brake plate from the CB160

Sam.

[/quote]

HAHAHA... well Sam, that makes sense

I'll do the welding job with a fabricated bracket then. Mark, do you provide any of those parts? can't seem to find them on your web. I allready got a cable from a Suzuki GT which fits pretty good.

Thx again gents for sharing your knowledge.

/Jimmy

Paulages that looks really good.!!

lordmoonpie · « **Reply #19 on:** February 24, 2010, 01:22:43 AM »

Quote from: CPHjimm on February 23, 2010, 01:18:48 PM

@LMP. where do you get all thoose good links from. feels like Ive been serching on sites like that for ever

Ha ha! It's from six years of searching like you've been doing Jimmy - no easy route, you gotta do the time

Phil · « **Reply #20 on:** February 24, 2010, 02:40:36 AM »

I had my rear brake plate modified by none other than Voxonda. He does an excellent job always and is quick and reasonably priced. (Have just bought a CB160 front brake plate to explore the idea of a 2LS!).

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #21 on:** February 24, 2010, 03:12:39 AM »

After several hours of thinking (my old brain is hurting

) It should be possible to create a cable opperated 7" twin leading shoe rear brake using both CB160 front and rear components.
You would need the front shoes, leavers and acctuating spindles.
Remove the shoe pivot pin from the rear plate, bush and replace with one of the front acctuating spindles.
Simple

or is it.

Sam.

lordmoonpie · « **Reply #22 on:** February 24, 2010, 06:22:46 AM »

Sam, go and have a lie down mate - several hours of thinking will be too stressful for your old bones

kos · « **Reply #23 on:** February 24, 2010, 09:09:09 AM »

Quote from: Phil on February 23, 2010, 11:18:29 AM

KOS - are you selling these through-mounted footrests, pedal and cables? If so, where can I find the details?

Yes, these are made up in batches with alloy lever/ pedals sourced from newer Honda models.

KOS

turboguzzi · « **Reply #24 on:** February 24, 2010, 10:38:07 AM »

Quote from: Ricky_Racer on February 23, 2010, 09:37:07 AM

Sam, someone over on your side of the Big Pond used to make replacement plates for the Suzuki 4LS that looked like Ceriani plates. Since I can't afford a full Ceriani 4LS repro, I'd love to find a (used, affordable) set of the side plates to use on this build. Know of any? RR

maybe here?

http://www.menani.it/menani/index.php?id_cat=1&posizione=lista&lingua=&carrello=

not really affordable but nice eye candy in any case

News:

Author Topic: Conversion of rear brake hub- from rigid to cable activated (Read 15382 times)