Topic: Rear wheel rubbing frame - Options? Longer rear shocks?

[number13]

number13 !! -- You're in the 3rd Ward!?!  We are practically neighbors!  I live in the Heights and I work in the Sixth Ward.  I'd still love to get a Houston CB ride to happen sometime.  I think we have enough people to make it fun.

Ah yes, historic 6th Ward. I've had many friends that lived
there back when you could rent a rotting old house for $400 / month.
Guess those days are over, eh?

[the architect]

eye to eye

cb900f  14.5  VS  13 "

Now I can't say for sure that the 13 inchers that came off the project were stock or not.

In the pic, my rear mounting point is 5" rearward.

Sorry ask me in a month about the ride.  I'm getting close but not quite there yet.

I'm going to road test it with both riding positions so I'll post my impressions.
The original mounting point is still on the swingarm.

Thank you TOXIC! 

Architect: that 14.5 could be the ticket. If too long maybe you could use your lowering blocks too.

For discussion purposes, changing the angle of the shock changes its effective damping characteristics. Has to do with the amount of shock travel that occurs per the amount of wheel travel.

But your first priority remains tire clearance.

MC --  I'm glad you mentioned damping as related to the shock geometry.  I'd wondered about its relationship, especially when I see some of these mono-shock conversions.  For discussion purposes, what rules-of-thumb can you share regarding angles, travel and damping?

number13 !! -- You're in the 3rd Ward!?!  We are practically neighbors!  I live in the Heights and I work in the Sixth Ward.  I'd still love to get a Houston CB ride to happen sometime.  I think we have enough people to make it fun.

Ah yes, historic 6th Ward. I've had many friends that lived
there back when you could rent a rotting old house for $400 / month.
Guess those days are over, eh?

Yeah, those days are definitely over.  I'm still shocked when I see one of those "rotting cottages" list for sale for $300,000 + 

[MCRider]

My only rule of thumb might be you can always buy a shock somewhere that'll work for the application intended. At least in our world.

The monoshocks are often very adjustable, for damping and spring rates, and so they work. But they do tend to be asked to do a lot more work in a shorter stroke than shocks mounted further back. So they are higher quality and cost more.

Other than that I'm probably over my head.

[Steve_K]

I have removed one shock and put the least preload on the other and I could bottom the shock just by pushing down.  A friend could push while you look.  Remember that at speed the tire diameter grows.
Steve

[dusterdude]

would you have a pic of the tag mount from the rear,i kinda like it.

[the architect]

I managed to score these off eBay last night:



He says they came off a 750 (didn't specify the make).  The seller also claims they're height adjustable from 11-1/2" - 15-1/2".  My solution should lie in that range somewhere.  I see they have the usual pre-load adjusters, too.  I'll update here when I get them in.

would you have a pic of the tag mount from the rear,i kinda like it.

Thanks for the compliment, duster.  I made this bracket by hand.  It turned out alright and does its job, but I'm going to have a better one waterjet cut for better finish appearance.  I had planned to get a new led tail light, but I ended up recycling the one a PO had installed at some point.  It was going to be temporary, but I'm kind of liking it.  It just needed to be simple, effective and out of the way.  I left the wiring quick-connectors easily accessible, too, so I can remove it in about 45 seconds.

[kos]

Due like the hillbillies in Crapcar would do....throw in some shock rubbers (between spring coils) and crank in a round or two of Wedge!  Just kidding....run struts, like they did back 'n the day.

KOS

[Tim.]

Sorry to chime in here, and maybe somewhere (I read through) its been mentioned.

It looks like you have about 1" or so of adjustment left to bring the rear axle forward.  This would of course relatively 'extend' the rear loop further out over the rear wheel, increasing clearance.

That, combined with perhaps re-shaping your nice seat pan to hollow it out at the back end, providing additional clearance for the apex of the tire might help.  That, with slightly longer shocks and maybe at some point a lower profile tire would likely all combine to sort this out and retain the overall look.

Oh, and of course all of this happening to 'The Architect' is kinda funny