Topic: Not Charging CB550K [Problem Solved!] [Problem Broken Again!]

[scottly]

campbmic, it just occurred to me that you may, repeat may, have toasted your original RS bridge by putting two stator leads on the same post. Test your rectifier, as a whole, (both RS units, as you have them currently wired), using TT's 12 step test.

[campbmic]

Do I reverse meter lead polarity in an OHMS test by just switching the meter leads or do I have to adjust the MM?

[scottly]

Yes, reverse meter lead polarity by switching the meter leads. Check TT's post in the "whats wrong with my bike" thread a day or two ago. He gives a more detailed description of the 12 point test.

[scottly]

Just to help make things more clear, this is how your rectifier should be wired.

[campbmic]

It is wired that way I just ordered a new one from laminar too so that will come in the mail shortly I will run the test and post the results

[campbmic]

Alright, well I got the delivery from Laminar today and he sent me a rectifier. I tested the rectifier and here are my results;

I'm on the 2000K OHM setting on my multimeter

Test #1
Red MM Probe = Red/White Wire
Black MM Probe = Yellow 1-3
#1 = 1
#2 = 1
#3 = 1
(1 is equivalent to nithing happening)


Test #2
Black MM Probe = Red/White Wire
Red MM Probe = Yellow 1-3
#1 = 1375
#2 = 1779
#3 = 1578


Test #3
Black MM Probe = Green Wire
Red MM Probe = Yellow 1-3
#1 = 1
#2 = 1
#3 = 1


Test #4
Red MM Probe = Green Wire
Black MM Probe = Yellow 1-3
#1 = 1165
#2 = 1453
#3 = Flashes a number once then goes to 1


So, I'm guessing that means this new rectifier is dead on one of the diodes correct? I reconnected my homemade rectifier and it had basically the same pattern of results but #3 on the fourth test was around 1200. So the new rectifier is dead that laminar sent me and the homemade one is still working right?

The bike is still not charging 

[scottly]

It's a meter thing. Quit messing with the new rect. HAVE you tried it yet!!!! 

[campbmic]

Yea, its still not charging

[campbmic]

My battery voltage is at 8.4 right now wit the bike running

At 4k and with the headlight on the voltage is just slightly dropping around .01 every 10 seconds
At 4k with the headlight off the voltage is just slightly increasing. Maybe by .01 every 15 seconds

[scottly]

I think I asked you before, and I don't remember your answer, and I don't want to make my eyes bleed by going back and looking. Does your electric starter work?

[campbmic]

No its doesn't the button is smashed. If I hot wire the two terminals the bike will start though. Its very strange, if I revv the engine up to 5-6k then my battery spikes. When I bring it back to 3k-4k range it drops dramatically and then keeps draining =/

[scottly]

describe "spikes". Which 2 terminals do you hot wire? If at the solenoid, fat wires or skinny, or at the handle bar sw? Please be specific, it makes a difference. You are my eyes, hands, and ears...

[campbmic]

I was testing the battery at about 4k RPM and about 8.4V without the headlight on. It was slowly draining so I revved the engine to around 5.5k and it jumped to 8.6. When I let the bike back down to 4k it went to around 8.36V and then back to the normal rate of drainage.

When I start the bike I just use a screwdriver between the two terminals on the cylindrical area that has two nuts on top of the two terminals.

[scottly]

Disconnect the little yellow/red wire from the solenoid. Connect a jumper lead (the kind with the little alligator clips at the end, get them at RS, indispensable tool, like having extra hands) to the wire going into the solenoid. Momentarily touch the other end of the jumper to a bolt on the engine; it should crank the starter. (your battery is too run down to crank it now)
PS you really need a battery charger, nothing fancy, just a bare bones, 2-3 amp charger.

[scottly]

I know the questions about the starter seem weird, but I'm wondering if there is a ground reference issue going on..   

[campbmic]

I'm looking at the small cylindrical piece on the top of the electronics area. It has two terminals with nuts on the top of them.

One terminal has a thick rubber wire running to the batter and also a smaller (but thick) wire that has a red and red/white wire coming out of it.

The other terminal just has a thick rubber wire running from it to the sprocket cover.

I don't see any yellow/red wires

[scottly]

Ok, it's not important for now. I guess I was grasping for straws, anyway. I'm willing to start over tomorrow, if you are. By the way, do get some of those jumpers!!

[scottly]

Disconnect the white (field) wire from the regulator. Set your meter to the lowest ohm scale. With the black meter probe firmly connected to an engine bolt (you may have to wiggle it and dig the point of the probe in to make good contact), place the red meter probe on the white wire (not the reg terminal; the wire itself) You should read the same as your previous field tests (say 5-8 ohms, not critical). OK, that's it, I'm done for the night, I'm not going to lay awake all night again wondering how to fix something.

[scottly]

Whoa. Do you still have the noise with the new rectifier??? This symptom has bugged me ever since you first mentioned it. The Honda alternator should NOT make a clearly audible noise, that only appears with the rect connected. All your electrical tests, minus learning curve errors, have checked out. If the noise is still there, it's time to pull the left side engine cover, and look inside at the field and stator.... 

[siacotos]

well im going to through my hat in, I seem to have the same problem. my bike is a 76 550ss. it started with only charging at high rpm's so I talked to my local shop owner and he suggested I upgrade to a combo unit he had one used for $60 so I got it wired it up and when I plugged it in the rectifier dc wires started smoking. so i thought I had them wired wrong so I reversed them and the same thing happened. I took it back and he didn't have any other used combos so he gave me a regulator off a goldwing. this new regulator has a yellow wire instead of the white field wire so I just put them together. please tell me if I was wrong in doing that. I will have to test the rectifier tomorrow. but I look forward to the solution for this. 

[campbmic]

I'm not for sure how combo Rectifier/Regulators work. I do know some of the wiring though.

Black Wire - Should run from your ignition to the regulator
White Wire- Should run from your regulator to the alternator
2 Green Wires- Are ground wires
3 Yellow Wires- Carry AC power created by alternator into the rectifier
Red/White wire- Carry DC power from rectifier to battery

hope this helps

[scottly]

campbmic, you have come a long way, in a very short time. Welcome to Zen and the art of motorcycle repair.
Scott

[campbmic]

I'm much more interested in Zen and the art of motorcycle RIDING 

[scottly]

LOL!

[scottly]

A mechanical regulator is definitely capable of making noise, as in an old fashioned doorbell buzzer; it's the same basic device. If you really want to jump your reg, I can help. At the minimum, I request you obtain some test jumper clips...