Author Topic: Starter button/starter solenoid (Read 3091 times)

Jim F · « **on:** March 04, 2010, 10:58:19 AM »

ok all you electrical guys (I am not in the category), I need your help

I have rebuilt my right side controls and checked all the switches with a multimeter and they all work
at least where they plug in to the main harness around the headlight. I installed a new starter solenoid.

Now...................This should be a straight forward hook up but I still cant get the starter to engage with the starter button
I can jump the terminals and get the engine to turn over but that's hard on the new solenoid.

First question.

Can the wires in the main harness be grounded somewhere?

Can you get anything backwards? All colored wires match where they are hooked up

any suggestions would be appreciated

Jim

scottly · « **Reply #1 on:** March 04, 2010, 11:41:16 AM »

Hi Jim. A couple of questions. Did the starter work before you rebuilt the control? What year is the bike, as later models have a clutch and neutral switch in the starter circuit.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #2 on:** March 04, 2010, 03:06:45 PM »

Kill Sitch working properly?

Jim F · « **Reply #3 on:** March 05, 2010, 05:28:54 AM »

Its a 75 model, the starter worked before and now.
I can start the bike by jumping the terminals and shut it down with the kill switch

lowmileage · « **Reply #4 on:** March 05, 2010, 06:20:19 AM »

Just locking into this thread.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #5 on:** March 05, 2010, 07:03:40 AM »

Did you check to be sure the plunger on the button is contacting the contact when you depress the start button? Make sure the spring or plunger didn't pop out when you disassembled it all.

Deceptibong · « **Reply #6 on:** March 05, 2010, 11:06:25 AM »

I just did mine a few weeks ago. ordered a new started button on partsnmore.com I felt it was tricky getting it back together but Im firing mine up today to see if it still works after hibernation

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2010, 11:58:52 AM »

I had to sand down the brass plunger part on my prartsnmore plunger, way too long.

scottly · « **Reply #8 on:** March 05, 2010, 12:33:16 PM »

If the starter button worked before you rebuilt the control, and not after.... Did you do anything with the left side control as well?

Jim F · « **Reply #9 on:** March 05, 2010, 06:54:34 PM »

I checked the end of the wires (before you plug them in to the main harness)
with a multimeter and the switch is working. I pushed the switch in and the multimeter showed contact
I did the kill switch the same way and it is working also.
I can also stop the engine too with the kill switch.

very puzzling.................

Its a new switch from parts n more but the wiring was a different color but that shouldn't make any difference
either was you plug these wires in there is nothing

scottly · « **Reply #10 on:** March 05, 2010, 06:59:26 PM »

So did the starter button work before you rebuilt the control, or was that why you rebuilt it, to repair a non-functioning button?

Jim F · « **Reply #11 on:** March 07, 2010, 10:44:07 AM »

Well I remember the button worked for one crank, the bike started fine, went for short ride, got home and it would not engage the stater solenoid any more. Everything has been rebuilt or replaced with new stuff

Deceptibong · « **Reply #12 on:** March 07, 2010, 10:48:40 AM »

Quote from: Dukiedook on March 05, 2010, 11:58:52 AM

I had to sand down the brass plunger part on my prartsnmore plunger, way too long.

thats true i also had to sand mine down too. took us a min to figure that out.

Quote

So did the starter button work before you rebuilt the control, or was that why you rebuilt it, to repair a non-functioning button?

the outer plastic button part broke apart and all was left was the inner brass part. it works now though.

TwoTired · « **Reply #13 on:** March 07, 2010, 12:14:44 PM »

Until I know which bike and model being discussed, I won't have any way to make a diagnosis, or contribution.
There are lots of wire diagrams.

I was hoping someone else could help you out. But, without a knowledge base, it is pretty hard to make meaningful decisions, comments.

scottly · « **Reply #14 on:** March 07, 2010, 12:42:35 PM »

Uh,this may be a dumb question, but have you checked your battery voltage?

Doh! I just remembered you said you could jump it at the solenoid!!! Nevermind.

scottly · « **Reply #15 on:** March 07, 2010, 06:57:23 PM »

Jim, I think I can help you. I need some time to get my ducks in a row...

Scott

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 07, 2010, 08:41:38 PM »

By amazing powers of deduction I believe this bike is a '75 CB750.....first test would be to unplug the red/yellow wire at the solenoid....with the start button pressed there must be - 12v ( battery voltage, if different ) at this connection...if not then, bike's not in N, clutch is not pulled, or, starter safety is bonkers......or combo of all...... I.E.... put red meter lead on battery + terminal and meter black on red/yellow wire.....one more thing... ignition= on = must have +12v ( or battery voltage) on the Black wire @ the solenoid......

HB-1fan · « **Reply #17 on:** March 07, 2010, 10:34:18 PM »

Jim,
Have you tried "simulating power" to the solenoid from the button. If this does not do the same as jumping across the big hot wires(as you said would turn it over) then I would assume there is a problem in the solenoid. New or not!!
Just a thought,
HB

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #18 on:** March 07, 2010, 10:56:24 PM »

Yeah, don't let the newness of anything electrical throw you off, test and assume everything is toast, then proceed down the line to the next thing.

I had a bad, new coil I bought from partsnmore that had me for a loop for a while before I figured it out.

scottly · « **Reply #19 on:** March 08, 2010, 06:44:29 AM »

After studying my Clymer CB750 K3-K7 schematic, I have found 2 errors in the start circuit, (start switch labeled "horn", and the red wire to the solenoid coil connected to the starter motor (large) terminal instead of the the coil). I don't trust my schematic, as, even allowing for these errors, some parts don't seem to make sense. Sorry.

scottly · « **Reply #20 on:** March 08, 2010, 05:05:42 PM »

I found another schematic. From what I can tell, the "Starter Motor Safety Unit" only is used when the clutch lever is out, and the trans is in neutral. In fact, it appears that even with the SMSU unplugged, the start button should operate the solenoid as long as the clutch lever is pulled in. I'm guessing the clutch switch is built into the clutch lever. (Spanner?) Thankfully, Honda got smart and replaced the SMSU with a simple diode on the K8.

Jim F · « **Reply #21 on:** March 09, 2010, 05:47:36 AM »

I am thinking now that there might be a problem with the safety switch in the clutch
will check out today also check the voltage at the solenoid
thanks guys and will post results
Scott, can I call you later?
you can reach me at 770-367-7320
www.jmfmicroweld.com

Jim

scottly · « **Reply #22 on:** March 09, 2010, 09:59:08 AM »

Jim, I don't think it's wise to post your #. You can use the modify option to edit it. Also, are you aware of the private message feature (PM)?
Doh, just realized it's a business #. Never mind. I'll give you a quick call. When would be good?

Jim F · « **Reply #23 on:** March 09, 2010, 11:57:30 AM »

anytime Scott
I am on the east coast
Jim

Jim F · « **Reply #24 on:** March 09, 2010, 12:55:56 PM »

I think its fixed but I have pull the clutch in even when the bike is in neutral.
Is that normal?
It really doesn't matter as I have to pull the clutch in regardless

Jim

Thanks too all for your input

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Author Topic: Starter button/starter solenoid (Read 3091 times)