Topic: Removing Cylinder Studs

[MattFreeman]

I figured out a good trick for removing cylinder studs that are going to be replaced.

I was scared to try the bend and twist method and don't have a set of vice grips so I used a 12" pipe wrench to break them loose then chucked them up in the ol' drill and spun them out.

Easy!!

[Alan F.]

Nice, I got mine out the other week with the double nut and just a box end wrench, none broken for me either. Lucky us.
-A

[bucky katt]

because i was replacing these studs with heavy duty ones i ran a nut down onto the stud enough to get a good purchase on it then welded them on.

[markb]

After soaking with PB Blaster I always heat up the casting at the base of the stud with an industrial heat gun (heavy duty hair dryer) for a couple of minutes and they've always come right out with a vice grip.

[sangyo soichiro]

I just successfully removed all mine about a half hour ago without a glitch.  

I double nutted them using the flanged nuts that came off it, tightening them just enough to where I wouldn't strip the threads, and used an impact wrench.  A couple acted like they might give problems, but in the end they all cooperated.

So the trick that worked for me was double-nutting them using the flanged nuts and an impact wrench.

Hope everyone else that uses this technique has as good of luck as I did.

[bikeme2001]

I broke one of mine off so I had to weld a nut on the broken stud.I used extractalloy welding rod.Heated the case and it came out.

[kayjohn]

I had a real booger of a time getting one out that was rusted on a 78. First there was so much rust that it wouldn't let the cyl. slide all the way off so I ended up cutting the top thread off, used some heat and vicegrips and twisted it off right in the middle, more heat and oil only to twist it off at the base. center drilled it, more heat and oil. It started coming out then broke my Snap-On easy out.
 Now I'm no animal. I took my time, spent a couple of hours and a few days letting things soak in. tried it again with heat and oil with another easy out and broke that one.
So off to the machine shop I went with the top half and a spare stud.  made a point to show them the counter sunk hole the stud was to go in and of course they missed it the first time so I had to come back the next day to pick it up.

I have like seven spare engines and two cases in the shop. Any other time I would have scrapped it and picked another one but this one (aside from having one rusty stud) was near new, Std bore with less than 0.002 wear. I could still see the hash marks in the cyl.The rod and main bearings looked like new as did the trans and clutch thus making it worth the the stud trouble.

[Don R]

I read the threads here and elsewhere. I used a combination of things.

After the third one started to twist I came inside to read about it. I ended up using the double nut method with deep creep. I oiled them all, double nutted one at a time, tapped the end of the stud with a ball peen hammer, it vibrated and seemed to take oil so I tapped easy a few times and re-oiled. I used two wrenches on the nuts, turned to break loose then turned to tighten. When they seemed to start turning I oiled, tapped and turned back and forth to work some lube down the threads. Then spun them out.

 I think it's important to take your time let them rest in case the threads are getting hot.  Turning them in and out to loosen things did make a difference.

[shanethompson]

I'm liking this group.  Been playing with cb's for 25 years.  I badly need a rear cylinder stud.  Just 1 for now. Anyone have any takeoffs? hit me at service@themfi.com

[GV1390]

I'm liking this group.  Been playing with cb's for 25 years.  I badly need a rear cylinder stud.  Just 1 for now. Anyone have any takeoffs? hit me at service@themfi.com

I have a spare block with the head off, I can take one off for you if you can't find one. Just pay for shipping.

[JWExperience]

I may have one also. If you let me know the length, I have a few that came out clean and are sitting on my bench.


'76 cb750k, '78 cb750f 'Merica Edition

[rumpleblumpkinz]

Soak in penetrating oil for as long as possible, heat cases with propane torch, and use a collet type stud remover along with a stout impact wrench to break them loose, then ease them out. Time consuming but didn't have any problems

[KrombopulosRyan]

I was shown a different way that is probably a little nicer to the cylinder studs. Thought it was pretty nifty as all I needed were two wrenches, and two nuts that thread onto the studs. I was able to remove all the cylinder studs this way, big thanks to Dave from Cerberus Moto for showing me proper wrench technique when cinching the nuts together  , for showing me how to take apart a 750 down the the bottom cases! Great guy who's happy to share his knowledge and expertise.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eCc6YuniN04tCjMo1

[calj737]

I was shown a different way that is probably a little nicer to the cylinder studs. Thought it was pretty nifty as all I needed were two wrenches, and two nuts that thread onto the studs. I was able to remove all the cylinder studs this way, big thanks to Dave from Cerberus Moto for showing me proper wrench technique when cinching the nuts together  , for showing me how to take apart a 750 down the the bottom cases! Great guy who's happy to share his knowledge and expertise.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eCc6YuniN04tCjMo1

Double-nutting is one method, but will not work in some instances due to corrosion. Further, it applies a lot of twist to the stud that promotes shearing. Stud removal tools grip the stud very close to the block, thus reducing the shear force along the shank, imparting it instead to the threads (where the problem is). But glad yours worked.

[Alan F.]

I took the stock studs out of my 750K8 this afternoon. All but 2 were easy to remove with the double nut method and some turn-in...turn-out as they seemed to tighten up as they backed out.

For the other 2 I clamped 2 pairs of vise grips down low (careful not to scratch the gasket surface) one to the left side and the other to the right, t-handle style. They broke loose easier than I expected and twisted right out.

After that I clamped a used stud in the bench vise and cut a slot in the end with a hacksaw. Then I bent it 90 degrees. I used this as a thread chaser to clean all of the stud hole threads. After each one I cleaned out the threads and the thread chaser groove with a can of compressed air.

Cheers!