Topic: LED lamp replacement

[WNY750A]

I would like to replace all of the lamps (headlight excluded) with LED units.  I found what looks like a decent brake/tail replacement here:

[url]http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/specs/1157-R19W6_motorcycle_bulb.htm/url]

Does anyone have experience with LED replacements?

Thanks,

Bob

[OldSchool_IsCool]

Welcome to the forum Bob!

Use the search function above in the dark blue bar (left side, not the right side) to look up all manner of info on LED lights, bulbs and controllers.

[cookindaddy]

Sorry to highjack, but how is the left search different from the right search?
Thanks

[Duke McDukiedook]

Right side does a google search, left side does the forums, just make sure you are in the main forum directory when you run a search unless you want to search a particular directory.

[WNY750A]

I did search but couldn't find anyone who has recently replaced lamps such as the 1156/7, 211-2 or 57 with the newer LED replacements. I can't seem to find any reviews through Google either. I'm in the process of restoring my 750A and based some load calcs I could reduce my system lighting load by 75% by going with LED's. The problem i'm seeing is that the first generation LEDS were quite directional and not quite as bright as incandescent. In the past year the LED market has exploded. Between the Tail/brake light, fairing, instrumentation and KG saddlebags I have 18 lamps to replace and i'd like to do it right but not pay a fortune either.

Superbrightleds.com seem to have an led lamp replacement for every conceivable situation and thats the problem. I don't know if I need the 1156/7 that costs $12 or the one that costs $20.00.

Bob 

[Bodi]

I tried a lot of available LED tail/stop lamp replacements two years ago. There are definitely more options available now.
I chose the 1157-RLX3 Luxeon 3W lamp from superbrightleds. It is the only one I tried that is bright enough. It has no white light for the license plate but it lights the plate pretty well (if red) anyway.
The light output is a bit hard to compare from the specs. The Luxeon ones are rated in lumens and the rest are in mCd, and converting between these is not easy. The Luxeon is rated at 65/240 lumens, the one you refer to is confusing but seems to say 8000 mcd spread over 40 degrees: a rough conversion comes up with 3 lumens. If that refers to one of the 19 LEDs, then total lumens would be 57. There's no reference to the low/high brightness you get with a stop/tail "1157" type bulb for this one either. Assuming the 8000mcd brightness is rated for the stop function and that it refers to individual LEDs, the 1157-R19W6 is about as bright on "stop" as the 1157-RLX3 is on "tail". Note that a normal 1157 bulb is over 400 lumens on "stop".
My tail light may be visible in full sun, it's marginal though but I don't care about that. The stop lamp is frigging bright even in full sun - that I like. At night both are excellent.
For safety I suggest the Luxeon 3 watt (or 5 watt if available) single LED lamp unit. It gives a good bright brake light. I have a box of other LED units I don't think are safe - the stop lamp is barely visible in daylight.
Don't try a white LED for a red signal lens. The way LEDs make white light is not direct, the LED is actually invisible UV light and it excites a mix of phosphors that give a sorta-white light that has very little red light in it. For the tail/stop light go with a true red LED. For signals the white LED produces a decent amber but a true amber LED can be much brighter and more efficient.
I don't know how you came up with a 75% load reduction using LED lamps. The headlight is at least 35W, the rest of the lamps can't come close to that. The stop lamp and signals don't really count since they are rarely on. The 1034/1157 bulb "dim" filaments (tail and marker) are 8W, the instrument lights are maybe three watts all put together. That's 35% of the stock lighting power load taken for non-headlight use, 25% if you have a 55W headlight; plus the LEDs do take some power too.

[WNY750A]

Thanks Bodi, that's the info I was looking for. My load calcs are based on worse case scenario and you are correct, the actual running load is 1/3rd of worst case. I have had it happen that i'll come to a stop light with the turn signal on, hit the brakes and the main fuse blows. My KG bags add (2) running lights and I have a stereo in the fairing. The automatic also has a turn signal buzzer that exacts a load as well. I'd like to get the load down so that stops happening.

I'm thinking of starting with the replacement stop/tail and LED replacement for the KG bags to start from Superleds.com. Then i'll move on to the instrument lighting.