Topic: Total loss ignition

[fastbroshi]

   Does the crank need to be rebalanced after the alternator is removed for this?   Also, how well will these old bikes idle after such a mod?  From what I've read they don't charge well at idle.  Given on a race bike they won't be idling most of the time but it is necessary for warmups, pitting, etc.

[mlinder]

Alternator should be fairly well balanced to begin with, no? Which should mean the crank will stay pretty similar to it's balance with the alternator.

[kos]

NO it does not have to be rebalanced.

KOS

[kslrr]

   From what I've read they don't charge well at idle.  Given on a race bike they won't be idling most of the time but it is necessary for warmups, pitting, etc.

It wont be charging at all since there will be no alternator and you are setting up a total loss ignition system.

[mlinder]

   From what I've read they don't charge well at idle.  Given on a race bike they won't be idling most of the time but it is necessary for warmups, pitting, etc.

It wont be charging at all since there will be no alternator and you are setting up a total loss ignition system.

Yeah, this, I should have mentioned too.
All your electrical power will be coming from the battery. Your alternator is gone.

[turboguzzi]

not a problem at all.

if it's highly tuned with big carbs, it wont idle like a stocker anyway, more so, on a racer its not a bad idea to keep idle rather high.  it really makes the transition from fully closed when exciting the turns much better and lets you maintain higher corner speed.

TG

[mlinder]

I removed the throttle altogether, it's soldered solid at WOT. I just use the clutch to modulate the speed....


(I'm kidding...)

[turboguzzi]

that's easy, flatboard trackers used to that with an ignition cut-off button 

[mlinder]

I'm not a flat tracker

[turboguzzi]

I'm not a flat tracker

you will soon be with your clutch control 

i was referring to board racers in the 1910's on the wooden speed bowls, what an era. ever checked the book "american racer 1900-1939"?

worth a look

TG

[754]

There are very few things I lust after...

 THAT BOOK is one of them..
 

[fastbroshi]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/0879383763/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used

That'll be $344 please.

[754]

I tried to trade a Morris mag for one already,,,   

[fastbroshi]

   From what I've read they don't charge well at idle.  Given on a race bike they won't be idling most of the time but it is necessary for warmups, pitting, etc.

It wont be charging at all since there will be no alternator and you are setting up a total loss ignition system.

Yeah, this, I should have mentioned too.
All your electrical power will be coming from the battery. Your alternator is gone.

Right.  I realize this guys.  But given a stock setup, if the battery's not tip top, they don't start or idle well from what I understand.  Wondering what the effects might be with a total loss system.  Then again you're not running a head, taillight.  Maybe that helps out.

[ryder60]

It never bothered mine.  I kept the battery on a tender and at the track I plugged a converter in my car lighter and ran a 2A charger off of it to charge between track sessions.  It started and ran well.  Mind, I never ran it more that 25-30 minutes at a time.

[754]

Ice racing, at about 0 -20 deg F , with , I think the stock battery, running coils/points only...3 or 4 hrs usually..

 You probably have less track time , than battery...