Topic: 1970 CB750 K0 restoration - going for original

[egar]

Hello folks,

If you recall, I finally finished mycb550 (although it's never completely finished) and am now beginning to tear down the 1970 ko I bought from an attorney at work. I paid $500 for the bike and am planning on going broke bringing the bike back to its original - or as close to original - condition. I was inspired after attending the vintage motorcycle auction in DeLand last week during Daytona Bike Week. There were a ton of good deals, including cb750s in perfect condition that went as low as $3300. I digress. Anyhow, I will make sure to post lots of photos as I begint the tear down and rebuild process. Am going for the original candy gold paint job. The last owner had the bike for 35 years and, being a lawyer, kept all the paperwork and original owner's manual. Feel free to chime in and recommond any tips for parts etc.
I have never heard the bike run as the PO took off the carbs in hopes of fixing up the bike himself.


Ed


The bike when I got it in Jan. 09

[Magpie]

Welcome to the club of masochists!
Cliff.

[markb]

I've got a K0 I just finished last spring.  It's the one in my avatar.  I've also got a sandcast that I'm finishing up now and another one to tear into so I'll be interested in watching your progress and will share any knowledge that I can.  Good luck.
Mark

[Johnie]

Nice find there Ed. How original are you taking that bike. I can see you still have the original duckbill seat (the upturn at the back). Those were on the 69 & 70 and are costly since Honda does not make them. I got my duckbill from Yamiya in Japan on line. But they run around $800. You may do better to get new foam and cover. But that is down the road for you. Yamiya is faster in shipping than in the states. Some of the stuff you can find on eBay. On my KO I wanted to keep the original parts on the bike so rechromed everything. Good luck with your project and keep the pics coming.

[fasturd]

Should be a rewarding project. You purchased it for a great price. I would say you should feel bad but hey you bought it from a lawyer...lol.

I made a similar buy 2 years ago I paid $250 for a Pile of sand cast and K0 stuff (two bikes worth) After looking at it and the expense to make it as nice as Marks and some others I decided to flood the market with the parts. Very rewarding to my "future project jar"...LOL.

Good luck with your project it will be fun to watch.

[egar]

Mark and Johnnie,

I know I will be bugging you guys in the coming months (or years, but let's hope it doesn't take that long) for information. Mark, your bike looks like the one on display at the Barber Motorsports Museum in Leeds, AL.
Johnnie, yes, the seat thing worries me. I saw the $899 seat on ebay, I think it was being offered by yamiya. I was thinking of going with one of the more affordable new seats and then restoring the original seat when I have extra cash.

My handlebar clamps are both cracked and I found a NOS pair for $25 on Ebay. I know they are among the last thing I will need, but I am snapping up things as I see them...

[egar]

More photos of the tearing down. As you can see, the bike is cruddy. The PO lives in St. Augustine on a barrier island, so I believe the salt air is responsible for the heavy amounts of rust all over. You can see some of the original candy gold on the insides of the fork ears. These were taken last Sunday. Wife works on Sunday (12-hour shift) so I am free to tinker until my back gets sore. Hope to get it down to the frame today so I can haul the black parts to the powdercoaters.

Question: Fenders and rims are heavily pitted. From those with experience, would it be cheaper to replate or just buy new. I've seen NOS fenders on Ebay but they are well over $200 a piece. What's a ballpark price for chrome plating? Bet it ain't cheap....

When I finally weaseled the right side pipes off, fine brown rust/dirt just poured out of them. I don't see any holes in them but I know one of the left pipes is pretty bad.

[Johnie]

Keep in mind the kill switch knob on the KO is black vs the red on the later models. If you found a black NOS kill switch for $25 that was a steal. Those go for over $100 with the black kill. As far as the seat goes, the K1 OEM will fit and looks great on the KO. It is still available from Honda, but you may want to find a good used one until you buy the duckbill. You will find all the guys on the board here very willing to help you out. The knowledge here is unbelievable and there is no better place to be with your project. Keep us informed and feel free to ask questions. Did you get yourself a Honda service manual for it yet. If not, you can search this site and download one. I bought the manual pictured below for my KO. I wanted to be able to page through it as I work on the bike. I paid $10 for it at a parts show which is a pretty good price. You can get them on eBay for a bit more. But it is very helpful as it covers the 750 from 69-70. Things started to change in the carbs in 1971.

[Johnie]

Take a look on the neck of the bike at the plate that has a serial number on it. In the corner you will see a month and year. My KO says 1/70. It will tell you what month and year your bike was built. Possibly could be a 69 build? It would be neat to know.
As far as the chrome, I had all my KO chrome redone for a couple reasons. I wanted to keep the parts it was born with on the bike. 2nd reason is factory chrome is not very good. Just to give you an idea of what I paid here in WI for the rechrome on my K4 fenders which is my current project, rear was $125 which included taking out a dent. The front was $125 taking out a dent too. Probably would have been around $100 without the dents. The rechrome of the handlebars was $80. I have a local plater that is a real nice guy and very fussy too. In fact, I believe Mark has used him too. As far as polishing aluminum, I have included a pic of my small set-up and the results I got on my side covers. If you can do it yourself, you will save a ton. I paid under $100 for my Craftsman set-up there. The last pic is of the patio my lovely wife makes me work in during the winter. The KO was done and it was time to move it out. :>) You can click the pics to enlarge...

[egar]

Johnnie,


The neck reads 6/70, so I assume it was manufactured in June of that year. Thanks for the information on the kill switch. I thought the red had faded off. I plan on downloading the manual and printing it out from this site like I did when I rebuilt my 550s.

Your chrome prices sound reasonable. I am going to have to start checking out what's available in my area. I hear there's one in Melbourne, the next town over. I like the idea of keeping as many original part on it as I can. You are already inspiring me....plus I'm not in a rush as I have my ST as my daily "car" and the 550 for tooling around...

[fasturd]

Regarding black knobs you can get black ones cheap off of 350 controls in case you have to turn a later red switch black to "solve" a problem... Yes I had to do it once...

[markb]

I agree with Johnie on the manual.  Two more things you can't do without are an impact driver and a torque wrench.  Its really helpful to get a part book too.  I have used Johnie's plater and recommended him also.
Mark

[egar]

OK KO guys,

I'm having trouble getting the engine out of the frame. It's a helluva lot heavier than the 550s I've done in the past. I followed the manual and am trying to remove it from the right side of the frame. My back is killing me and I called it a day. I tried lying the bike down but I'm wondering if I have to remove the flanges that are attached to the engine that the pipes slide onto. Any tips? I tried lying the bike down. I may take the wheels off but for right now its easier to move the bike back in place. I have three bikes on my side of the garage. My wife gets the other half for her little red Civic coupe.

[Old Scrambler]

Removing the exhaust spigots and the drain plug will help but if you are careful not absolutely neccessary. The lay it down method will only work if you have a bare frame.  It is much easier to lift the motor by removing the wheels and setting the engine on a thin peace of plywood between the frame rails.  My newest trick is to slip a piece of old vinyl flooring under the motor and extending over the frame rail to a low platform sitting next to the frame. I use a furniture dolly with carpet pads. Now you can stradle the motor and lift it about half way out and then do the rest from the right side.  You may want to look at the sandcast build now going on for a look at a very nice C-hook setup. 

[egar]

Thanks, Scrambler. I have the oil filter cover off, but I guess I'll take the wheels, forks, swingarm off next. Those are the only things left.

[Simpson]

Welcome to the club of masochists!
Cliff.

I second that statement. A world of heartache and financial expenses beyond your wildest dreams.
We like lots of pictures and a never give up attitude.  

[traveler]

Hello folks,

If you recall, I finally finished mycb550 (although it's never completely finished) and am now beginning to tear down the 1970 ko I bought from an attorney at work. I paid $500 for the bike and am planning on going broke bringing the bike back to its original - or as close to original - condition. I was inspired after attending the vintage motorcycle auction in DeLand last week during Daytona Bike Week. There were a ton of good deals, including cb750s in perfect condition that went as low as $3300. I digress. Anyhow, I will make sure to post lots of photos as I begint the tear down and rebuild process. Am going for the original candy gold paint job. The last owner had the bike for 35 years and, being a lawyer, kept all the paperwork and original owner's manual. Feel free to chime in and recommond any tips for parts etc.
I have never heard the bike run as the PO took off the carbs in hopes of fixing up the bike himself. He lost interst, lucky for me.


Ed


The bike when I got it in Jan. 09

If I found a pefect condition 750 for $3,300, it would be in my garage.

I'd love to have a restored original K0.

~Joe

[egar]

In case you guys were interested, the results of the Bator vintage motorbike auction are posted. The prices were disgustingly low


http://www.batorauctions.com/

[traveler]

Take a look on the neck of the bike at the plate that has a serial number on it. In the corner you will see a month and year. My KO says 1/70. It will tell you what month and year your bike was built. Possibly could be a 69 build? It would be neat to know.
As far as the chrome, I had all my KO chrome redone for a couple reasons. I wanted to keep the parts it was born with on the bike. 2nd reason is factory chrome is not very good. Just to give you an idea of what I paid here in WI for the rechrome on my K4 fenders which is my current project, rear was $125 which included taking out a dent. The front was $125 taking out a dent too. Probably would have been around $100 without the dents. The rechrome of the handlebars was $80. I have a local plater that is a real nice guy and very fussy too. In fact, I believe Mark has used him too. As far as polishing aluminum, I have included a pic of my small set-up and the results I got on my side covers. If you can do it yourself, you will save a ton. I paid under $100 for my Craftsman set-up there. The last pic is of the patio my lovely wife makes me work in during the winter. The KO was done and it was time to move it out. :>) You can click the pics to enlarge...

Johnie, if this bike is ever for sale....please let me know....serious.

~Joe

[egar]

I did check out chrome plating prices locally and found that the front fender will cost about $175 and $150 for the rear. That is much cheaper than the NOS stuff on Ebay and keeps the bike's original parts. Of course, I'm a ways off from that point in the project but I'm making a list of everything I need to do and what I estimate it will cost. Another column in my notebook is for what I've spent so far. Getting scary.

[Magpie]

One of the best things I've done on my builds in the remove the page from my notebook with the summary of my costs. It's scary and started to prevent me from doing what I know I should. My projects took a little longer because of the cost, especially the current one, but eventually looked the way I wanted them too. That's not to say I didn't carefully shop for stuff. Plus it keeps my answers truthful when the wife asks "How much.....?". I can see where I've cut corners on my K1's and will eventually go back and redo some things. The K0 and sandcast projects are expensive. The results are huge in my opinion. You're doing good work! The end result is worth it.
Cliff.

[Johnie]

Take a look on the neck of the bike at the plate that has a serial number on it. In the corner you will see a month and year. My KO says 1/70. It will tell you what month and year your bike was built. Possibly could be a 69 build? It would be neat to know.
As far as the chrome, I had all my KO chrome redone for a couple reasons. I wanted to keep the parts it was born with on the bike. 2nd reason is factory chrome is not very good. Just to give you an idea of what I paid here in WI for the rechrome on my K4 fenders which is my current project, rear was $125 which included taking out a dent. The front was $125 taking out a dent too. Probably would have been around $100 without the dents. The rechrome of the handlebars was $80. I have a local plater that is a real nice guy and very fussy too. In fact, I believe Mark has used him too. As far as polishing aluminum, I have included a pic of my small set-up and the results I got on my side covers. If you can do it yourself, you will save a ton. I paid under $100 for my Craftsman set-up there. The last pic is of the patio my lovely wife makes me work in during the winter. The KO was done and it was time to move it out. :>) You can click the pics to enlarge...

Johnie, if this bike is ever for sale....please let me know....serious.

~Joe

Thanks Joe...you are too kind. This was my first 750 restore and I believe I will be keeping it for a while. Thanks again...

[egar]

I finally had time to photobucket my progress from Sunday. As you can see from the photos one of the left side pipes is toast (unless I could use duct tape and silver spray paint to patch it up, har har). All of the pipes were filled with rust and dirt that poured out of them. The right side pipes, strangely, are pitted but solid. I don't even see pinholes. Go figure.......

[egar]

Has anyone bought paint from this site? I thought I might buy the paint and then hire someone to apply if I chicken out.....

http://www.vintagehondapaint.com/Site/vintagehondapaint.com.html

[zzpete]

I did and it turned out great. I ended up doing it myself. The guy I had set up to do it wouldn't do lacquer. So I asked Don if I could return it and he said no, but encouraged me to do it myself saying "its so easy a caveman can do it" Hmmmmm, I think I've heard that before!! Anyway a good friend helped with the dents, showed me what to do. It was a cool learning experience. I ended up with a small run on the back of the headlight (can't see it when its on the bike) and I screwed up one of the decals and had to buy another. I will buy another one of these kits this year for my 1975 K. GO FOR IT!!!!!!!