Author Topic: Painting plastic  (Read 1927 times)

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Offline country joe

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Painting plastic
« on: March 21, 2010, 06:32:20 AM »
Now I KNOW this doesn't have a damn thing to do with Honda sohc fours, but everyone here at the forum has been really cool about answering my questions. I'm waiting for a title for my CB550, so in the meantime I've been playing with my '79 Yamaha IT 400. I'm intersted in redoing her. She doesn't need much. I've found all the parts I need to do it. But I've got one problem. The gas tank is sun faded, nasty looking, but has no leaks, and really no bad mars or dents. I want to paint it just to make it look nice. I hate to redo all the other plastic on the bike and have this nasty ass looking tank on it. I have found replacements but they don't come cheap. all around 200 bucks. The stuff on ebay looks worse or just as bad as mine. I tried painting this tank once many years ago with "plastic adhering" paint. It bubbled up and flaked off in a week. I've been told you can't polyethelene, which is what I believe it to be made of. Anyone ever tried painting these tanks with any success? I found a finising forum that claims the only way to do it is scuff the surface with very light sandpaper then flame treat it. I don't know about this. I have visions of me blowing up in my garage if I try it. If anyone knows of any special paint to do this or techinique for it, please let me know. Thanks
'78 Honda CB550K
'79 Yamaha IT400
'74 H-D Sprint 350 (basket case)

Offline NitroHunter

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #1 on: March 21, 2010, 07:30:01 AM »
Try 'Bulldog' primer for plastic, I bought it in a rattle can from a paint supply shop.
It worked as advertised, I used it to get the new paint to stick to the air dam on my Silverado.
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old paul

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #2 on: March 21, 2010, 07:43:36 AM »
The new Fusion brand of spray can paint sticks well to plastics.  I've done many pieces in the last several years with it and never had a problem.  The stuff is found in any auto parts, hardware or discount store.

Offline elquenada

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #3 on: March 21, 2010, 07:47:40 AM »
i used Krylon Flat Black indoor/outdoor paint on my headlight bucket, no primer.  The hardware store guy reccommended it and he's been helpful in the past so i went for it.  Its only been a few weeks but it looks to be holdin up nicely, only time will tell. 
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Offline Logan80

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #4 on: March 21, 2010, 01:17:53 PM »
I used Krylon Fusion to paint my first bike. It was purple with flake in it when I got it, and that had to go ASAP! Worked out well, but gasoline will eat the paint instantly, so if you use it on a tank, be VERY careful.


Offline tomkimberly

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2010, 03:45:28 PM »
The secret is the 1st primer coating. I have had great sucess with using Kilz oil based primer.

http://www.kilz.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=23


Tom

Offline mgbgt89

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #6 on: March 22, 2010, 02:59:36 AM »
Good like with the IT. I've got an IT200, love the thing.

Offline mystic_1

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #7 on: March 22, 2010, 10:13:45 AM »
Google "vinyl dye".

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Offline greasy j

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2010, 12:01:44 PM »
i used Krylon Flat Black indoor/outdoor paint on my headlight bucket, no primer.  The hardware store guy reccommended it and he's been helpful in the past so i went for it.  Its only been a few weeks but it looks to be holdin up nicely, only time will tell. 

this is a special case, not normal plastic like your light bucket. I have painted lots of plastic, but don't know about your case.

I did find this online, though:

There are two issues involved in painting polyethylene. One is to "activate" or "modify" the surface chemically to allow wet out and adhesion. In industry there are numerous methods used to treat the surface of polyethylene before bonding or painting. The best are too hazardous for a small shop or garage since the chemicals involved are actually dangerous. Reasonable bond strength - enough for paint - can be achieved with very light surface roughening using detergent water and fine wet-or-dry sand paper. This must be followed by careful flame treatment. An oxygen rich flame is best and the flame must not be allowed to melt or glaze the surface. Instead, the farthest tip of the flame only should contact the surface and then only for a brief fraction of a microsecond. The flame must be kept quickly moving at all times. Every square inch of the surface must be touched ever so briefly by the farthest tip of the flame in this way. After some cooling, the surface can be retreated if in doubt - but I would suggest running the flame in a cross direction to the initial hit.

The surface can be tested with super clean distilled water. Apply a single drop with a very clean eye dropper. On an untreated tank, the drop will bead up like on a well waxed car. No adhesion. If properly surface modified, the drop will actual cling to the surface and spread out to be at least twice as wide as it is high. This gives adequate adhesion for most applications.

The second issue is to use a paint compatible with the flexibility of polyethylene. I suggest using a flexibilized paint or adding a flexibilizer as is customary for flexible bumpers. All the major paint suppliers offer this. Of course, a flexibilized clear coat can be put on top.

As to priming - I feel it just interferes with flexible performance and adds extra work. If the tank needs scratches or dings filled in this may be possible if you can find a sufficiently flexible filler. In any case if you were to sand the primer or the filler down and even lightly hit or scuff into the polyethylene, that area has to be re-flame treated. If you hit it hard enough to bubble the primer or filler, you are way overdoing it! Several light quick sweeps with the flame will do the job - a near-scorching will ruin it!

If you need optimum adhesion or structural bonding for repairs or modification that can be done too but the chemistry has to be kicked up a lot.

it was located here: http://www.finishing.com/141/73.shtml

a lot of answers on there are also regarding painting normal plastic, so ignore those. this is a very difficult type of plastic to paint apparently. maybe you would be better off finding another tank that fits.

good luck

Offline greasy j

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #9 on: March 22, 2010, 12:08:53 PM »
and as far as flexible filler I can help you with that.

this for repair and large chips:
3M™ Automix™ EZ Sand Flexible Parts Repair Kit, 05895
http://www.shop3m.com/60980109239.html?WT.z_xsell=1&WT.z_refSKU=60980109221

and this for filling:
Evercoat Poly-Flex
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/evercoat1.html
(3/4 of the way down the page)

I've used both of these a bit and find them to be very good products, very easy to work with as well.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2010, 12:11:43 PM by greasy j »

Offline g_lightning

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Re: Painting plastic
« Reply #10 on: March 22, 2010, 12:58:10 PM »
I have had some good results using primer specifically designed for plastic parts.  I believe that is was krylon that made it.  It went on clear.  I used it many times on plastic trim on my el camino.  Just make sure you lay down more than one coat for primer before you lay down your color coat.  Make sure you get EVERYWHERE because if you miss a spot you will definitely be able to notice in the paint.