Topic: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition in Dual, Single, and now Triple!

[HondaMan]

Mark, do you recommend a specific pair of coils to your ignition?  Cheaper and better than Dyna would be fine
To CB750 K2 mostly, bigger bore with higher CR, ported head, cam like RC295, MIKUNI VM29 smoothbore.
I guess an OEM 736 Honda will have same need.

I have currently Dyna 5 ohm coils in my modified K6 together with your ignition.
One weak point is the auto type ign wire connection in the Dyna coil, it can move out and cause intermittent functionality. Need to add a "wire holder" very close to the coils outputs.

- Complete package, ign module and coils?

I've had real good luck with the Sakura coils, sold by PartsNmore (#17-6823), which are nearly identical to the post-1975 coils (4.3 ohm primary, but almost 15kV spark instead of TEC's 8kV spark). They have a long duration like the TEC coils did, but they do have odd wire colors: only Black and Blue. They don't care which way the wires are connected: their existing bullet connectors are backward to the Honda harness, easily fixed with new bullet connectors, though. They fit right in, too!

[theriddler]

Hi Mark,
My transistorised unit now fitted and working well. Everything fitted well. On my CB750F1 I cable tied the box to the back of the battery cage (between the battery and the rear mudguard), with the cables sticking out on the oil tank side of the bike. Snug fit but seems good. Thanks a lot for this unit! Much appreciated...

[cumber]

+1

I am very satisfied with the transistorized ignition (and the keyswitch saver).
Start up is much easier, runs smoother and I even have idle now.
Thanks once again!

[PeWe]

Mark, do you recommend a specific pair of coils to your ignition?  Cheaper and better than Dyna would be fine
To CB750 K2 mostly, bigger bore with higher CR, ported head, cam like RC295, MIKUNI VM29 smoothbore.
I guess an OEM 736 Honda will have same need.

I have currently Dyna 5 ohm coils in my modified K6 together with your ignition.
One weak point is the auto type ign wire connection in the Dyna coil, it can move out and cause intermittent functionality. Need to add a "wire holder" very close to the coils outputs.

- Complete package, ign module and coils?

I've had real good luck with the Sakura coils, sold by PartsNmore (#17-6823), which are nearly identical to the post-1975 coils (4.3 ohm primary, but almost 15kV spark instead of TEC's 8kV spark). They have a long duration like the TEC coils did, but they do have odd wire colors: only Black and Blue. They don't care which way the wires are connected: their existing bullet connectors are backward to the Honda harness, easily fixed with new bullet connectors, though. They fit right in, too!

I got a pair of coils delivered today. Could not resist the price and good shipping with customs prepaid which save the customs fee of 15-20 USD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391847597250
I'll make a cable holder so the ignition wires cannot come loose which has happened some times with my existing Dyna coils

[HondaMan]

Mark, do you recommend a specific pair of coils to your ignition?  Cheaper and better than Dyna would be fine
To CB750 K2 mostly, bigger bore with higher CR, ported head, cam like RC295, MIKUNI VM29 smoothbore.
I guess an OEM 736 Honda will have same need.

I have currently Dyna 5 ohm coils in my modified K6 together with your ignition.
One weak point is the auto type ign wire connection in the Dyna coil, it can move out and cause intermittent functionality. Need to add a "wire holder" very close to the coils outputs.

- Complete package, ign module and coils?

I've had real good luck with the Sakura coils, sold by PartsNmore (#17-6823), which are nearly identical to the post-1975 coils (4.3 ohm primary, but almost 15kV spark instead of TEC's 8kV spark). They have a long duration like the TEC coils did, but they do have odd wire colors: only Black and Blue. They don't care which way the wires are connected: their existing bullet connectors are backward to the Honda harness, easily fixed with new bullet connectors, though. They fit right in, too!

I got a pair of coils delivered today. Could not resist the price and good shipping with customs prepaid which save the customs fee of 15-20 USD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391847597250
I'll make a cable holder so the ignition wires cannot come loose which has happened some times with my existing Dyna coils

I think you'll like those coils, PeWe: I once rebuilt a K6 that had some really fancy, shielded, flaming red metallic, custom-fitted spark wires from those coils. The wires each had a ground lug from the shield that was cut thru the jacket to the shield in just the right spot to use a cam cover screw to hold them down. The [previous] owner said the wires were almost $200 (ouch!), but looked cool. The new owner wanted a showroom-resto, though, so those are in a box in his garage in California somewhere, today(!).

[PeWe]

Mark, do you recommend a specific pair of coils to your ignition?  Cheaper and better than Dyna would be fine
To CB750 K2 mostly, bigger bore with higher CR, ported head, cam like RC295, MIKUNI VM29 smoothbore.
I guess an OEM 736 Honda will have same need.

I have currently Dyna 5 ohm coils in my modified K6 together with your ignition.
One weak point is the auto type ign wire connection in the Dyna coil, it can move out and cause intermittent functionality. Need to add a "wire holder" very close to the coils outputs.

- Complete package, ign module and coils?

I've had real good luck with the Sakura coils, sold by PartsNmore (#17-6823), which are nearly identical to the post-1975 coils (4.3 ohm primary, but almost 15kV spark instead of TEC's 8kV spark). They have a long duration like the TEC coils did, but they do have odd wire colors: only Black and Blue. They don't care which way the wires are connected: their existing bullet connectors are backward to the Honda harness, easily fixed with new bullet connectors, though. They fit right in, too!

I got a pair of coils delivered today. Could not resist the price and good shipping with customs prepaid which save the customs fee of 15-20 USD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391847597250
I'll make a cable holder so the ignition wires cannot come loose which has happened some times with my existing Dyna coils

I think you'll like those coils, PeWe: I once rebuilt a K6 that had some really fancy, shielded, flaming red metallic, custom-fitted spark wires from those coils. The wires each had a ground lug from the shield that was cut thru the jacket to the shield in just the right spot to use a cam cover screw to hold them down. The [previous] owner said the wires were almost $200 (ouch!), but looked cool. The new owner wanted a showroom-resto, though, so those are in a box in his garage in California somewhere, today(!).

Hi Mark,
I use this wire today with Dyna coils and your ignition module
http://www.gsparkplug.com/7mm-ht-ignition-lead-cable-high-resistance-kevlar-core-high-temp-cable-red.html
I got the idea that a wire wound conductor will suppress disturbances in a good way and work fine with your ignition module.
I have std black cu wire I can cut in correct lenghts and add NGK 5 kohm caps as the other.
http://www.gsparkplug.com/7mm-ht-ignition-lead-cable-tinned-copper-core-lucas-hypalon-black.html

These coils will hopefully get a Hondaman ignition module too.
You have in stock? Please prepare one to be shipped to Sweden
//Per

[HondaMan]

Mark, do you recommend a specific pair of coils to your ignition?  Cheaper and better than Dyna would be fine
To CB750 K2 mostly, bigger bore with higher CR, ported head, cam like RC295, MIKUNI VM29 smoothbore.
I guess an OEM 736 Honda will have same need.

I have currently Dyna 5 ohm coils in my modified K6 together with your ignition.
One weak point is the auto type ign wire connection in the Dyna coil, it can move out and cause intermittent functionality. Need to add a "wire holder" very close to the coils outputs.

- Complete package, ign module and coils?

I've had real good luck with the Sakura coils, sold by PartsNmore (#17-6823), which are nearly identical to the post-1975 coils (4.3 ohm primary, but almost 15kV spark instead of TEC's 8kV spark). They have a long duration like the TEC coils did, but they do have odd wire colors: only Black and Blue. They don't care which way the wires are connected: their existing bullet connectors are backward to the Honda harness, easily fixed with new bullet connectors, though. They fit right in, too!

I got a pair of coils delivered today. Could not resist the price and good shipping with customs prepaid which save the customs fee of 15-20 USD
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391847597250
I'll make a cable holder so the ignition wires cannot come loose which has happened some times with my existing Dyna coils

I think you'll like those coils, PeWe: I once rebuilt a K6 that had some really fancy, shielded, flaming red metallic, custom-fitted spark wires from those coils. The wires each had a ground lug from the shield that was cut thru the jacket to the shield in just the right spot to use a cam cover screw to hold them down. The [previous] owner said the wires were almost $200 (ouch!), but looked cool. The new owner wanted a showroom-resto, though, so those are in a box in his garage in California somewhere, today(!).

Hi Mark,
I use this wire today with Dyna coils and your ignition module
http://www.gsparkplug.com/7mm-ht-ignition-lead-cable-high-resistance-kevlar-core-high-temp-cable-red.html
I got the idea that a wire wound conductor will suppress disturbances in a good way and work fine with your ignition module.
I have std black cu wire I can cut in correct lenghts and add NGK 5 kohm caps as the other.
http://www.gsparkplug.com/7mm-ht-ignition-lead-cable-tinned-copper-core-lucas-hypalon-black.html

These coils will hopefully get a Hondaman ignition module too.
You have in stock? Please prepare one to be shipped to Sweden
//Per

Sure, I'll put one on the Tester for you!
Those red wires look a lot like the ones I took off the K6 resto that I did last year. The "ground clamps" that were added to it were touching the shield and were crimped onto the bared shield at those sites. It looked like someone took a lot of time to make it: they even covered over the ground clips with clear shrink tubing, cutting it away on the bottom side so it could contact the cam cover with the screw. Nicely done!

[dcalvert]

My question is can a test light still be used to set the timing after the transistorized ignition has been installed?

dcalvert

[PeWe]

I do not remember how I did. Maybe with Hondamans ignition connected or the blue and yellow wires disconnected when measured with a multimeter ohm or buzzer to see and hear when the points (F) match the case mark.

I use the strobe lamp most of the time. Points gap with dwell meter which makes it easier to set it correctly and both points equal. I aim for smallest gap, 23 degrees at 8 cyl dwell setting.  High idle around 1500-2000 rpm, adjust when engine is running a get a live value.

This makes it easier to make the timing adjustment possible. End up in not enough groove in point plate is typical for wrong gap.

[dcalvert]

Thank you for the input, I installed this a few weekends ago and also change point condensers act with NOS Genuine parts. This week end I hope to get the bike restarted. When I tried last time just got a backfire. Trying to get timing close so she will fire and fine tune it.
dcalvert

[PeWe]

Typical for points is that the ignition will not line up (F ' and case mark), but after fiddling around with point gap and baseplate twisting + 2-3 point  adj it will suddenly line up as it must.

Hondaman recommended me to use new points the old way without the module so the protective surface on points will get burnt away before installing the ign module. For around 100 miles or so...

[HondaMan]

My question is can a test light still be used to set the timing after the transistorized ignition has been installed?

dcalvert

The Transistor Ignition only puts out about 50mA of current (0.050 amp), so most static lights will not light up very much.
But - you can just plug the points directly to the coils while setting the timing statically, then just re-plug the box's wires back in afterward. The timing will not change.

[HondaMan]

Hondaman recommended me to use new points the old way without the module so the protective surface on points will get burnt away before installing the ign module. For around 100 miles or so...

That's exactly right, PeWe: there is a waxy, stubborn coating on these points that is almost impossible to fully clean off, and it can cause misfire with the box on brand-new points. Since the dawn of points, we were all supposed to clean this stuff off first, as it can accelerate pitting. But with this box added, it actually INHIBITS the contacts almost completely. The arcing that is normal with coils and points is gone with the box, so this coating doesn't go away easily.

To solve it, I've had riders with new points just set them up directly with their coils, then run the bike about 100 miles or so to do these 2 things: first, it burns off the coating completely (with the arcing) and secondly, the arcing final-welds the tungsten plating to the copper substrate of the points themselves. In years gone by, our points were made with solid tungsten pads that were welded to the points arms: today they are copper pads with about 0.040" thick tungsten PLATING, instead. These are not perfectly mated (as plating never does), so the arcing will finish this job and make them work perfectly with the Transistor Ignition, and for a VERY, VERY long time with no further adjustments.

[FunJimmy]

I really need to get me one of these.

[PeWe]

I got one today!
My second unit, now for this winter project hopefully running next spring.

[mgzych]

Hondaman,

Considering one of your ignition modules among some upgrades I’d like to do to my ‘75 550F this winter. Still available?

Do you have any tried and true ideas for and/or photos of possible mounting locations on my bike with stock air box and battery?

Thanks!

Yep, still making them. I am just now testing the last batch I built last week.
On the 550, it can go in several places. if the tool tray is devoid of the toolkit, it can reside in the tooltray slot, but tie it down so it does not bang around (this can break parts inside after a while). Some have also tucked it under the battery strap (which looks temporary to me?) and many more have mounted it underneath the battery mount ledge, using things like Tywraps or handmade brackets to hold it up. The box is 2" x 4" x 1" thick, with 4 screws on the lid (and 2 on the opposite side, but don't loosen those - they hold the transistors to the case for cooling). You can make a custom bracket and mount it using the lid screws: some have done that, too.

These have a Lifetime Warranty (at least for as long as I can still get their parts), but very few have failed. More have died from bad parts (in 2010-11) from a vendor than any other reason.

You can get one of this batch by sending a check or money order for $78 plus $9 postage (if inside the USA), $87 USD, to:
Mark Paris
8903 W. Florida Ave.
Lakewood, CO 80232
$1 from each one finds its way back to support these forums, too.

Thanks!