Topic: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition in Dual, Single, and now Triple!

[cb650PK]

Hondaman, I take it I can use this ignition on my OIF Bonneville wright? Please say yes.

[HondaMan]

Hondaman, I take it I can use this ignition on my OIF Bonneville wright? Please say yes.

Only if you have the one that is negative ground, electrically. I have not developed the ones for positive ground (at least, not yet...). There's been a surprising lack of demand for them.

[cb650PK]

Buy if I convert my Bonneville to negative earth I will be looked down upon by my fellow Brit bike riders. And I will be kicked out of the positive ground club.(seriously)

[HondaMan]

Buy if I convert my Bonneville to negative earth I will be looked down upon by my fellow Brit bike riders. And I will be kicked out of the positive ground club.(seriously)

When I get the time, I'll be making a positive ground version: just haven't found the right parts yet. The HV transistors are hard to come by in PNP format!

[bomber737]

Are there any other considerations I need to make if I install Dyna High energy coils using your ignition?

Thanks

[HondaMan]

Are there any other considerations I need to make if I install Dyna High energy coils using your ignition?

Thanks

If you're using Dyna's 3 ohm (or even less resistance, which I would not recommend) coils, I offer a Resistor Pack that protects the bike's wiring from the higher currents those units draw. The Ignition can handle the current, but typically the KILL switch on the handlebars slowly melts its solder (if the other connectors are in excelent shape) and goes bad over time from those coils. Some bikes slowly burn their little bullet connectors (the 2.5mm ones) from the extra current. Dyna recommends a 1-ohm resistor in series with those 3-ohm coils, but they don't sell one: now I do. 

These Resistor Packs are $15, plus shipping. Let me know which kind of coil you're using: I can get various resistances, too, for a few extra bucks. For example, the 2.2 ohm coils from the 1980 CB750 seem to be a popular (not the best approach) swap: those require 2 ohm resistors in these bikes. While these coils offer the replaceable wires, they are pulse-type CDI coils instead of dwell-type, so they will get pretty warm when run in a Kettering system.

[55fbomb]

Can i get one of these boxes for my 77 KZ1000?  im planning on running hotter coils, probly 3 ohm,  so i would need a resistor pack too.

[HondaMan]

Can i get one of these boxes for my 77 KZ1000?  im planning on running hotter coils, probly 3 ohm,  so i would need a resistor pack too.

Sure, there's a lot of Kawis (900-1000cc bikes) out there with them. Actually, more in AUS than anywhere else, I think...

Drop me a line at mgparis@concentric.net?

[55fbomb]

Cool, email sent, thanks.

[marbs34]

Honda Man,

Interested in an ignition for a 350f I just bought. It actually starts and runs pretty well for a poor old neglected bike.

Is there any worry about using this with the rest of the 350f stock? And should it help low RPM/idling especially with the anemic charging system on the 350f?

Just sounds too good to be true, so please excuse my skepticism.

-Martin

[HondaMan]

Honda Man,

Interested in an ignition for a 350f I just bought. It actually starts and runs pretty well for a poor old neglected bike.

Is there any worry about using this with the rest of the 350f stock? And should it help low RPM/idling especially with the anemic charging system on the 350f?

Just sounds too good to be true, so please excuse my skepticism.

-Martin

There's about 30 of them on the 350F bikes on our forums, and all report better performance. The main thing it does for those particular bikes is the increase in spark voltage at the lowest and highest RPM: the Baby Fours have very wide RPM range, much like a modern sportbike, but the Kettering ignition designs are made for only about a 6:1 range (like 1000 to 7000 RPM, or 2000 to 8000, which seems to be the 350F's strongest stock range). They have all reported smoother idling, and the hotrodders among them report improved high-end rev range as well. It does this same thing for the larger bikes, so it makes sense.

Overall, this box uses an extra 0.10 amp as compared to points. Unless I miss my guess, your 350F probably has a recent #1157 taillight bulb in it (since almost universally this has been substituted for the original Stanley bulb). If you switch your taillight bulb to the #1034 (more like the stock one used to be, in today's terms), you will "gain back" about 0.25 amp from your present power budget, more than enough to support this Ignition. It will live happier in city traffic, too. 

Mark

[The_Crippler]

As my 1980 CB650C has a reg/rec system - but it's still a Honda electrical system - I'd like to throw my vote in on the "Yay, HM Reg/Rec setup!" issue (I'd also be interested in one with a kill switch.)

[cobra2411]

Are there any other considerations I need to make if I install Dyna High energy coils using your ignition?

Thanks

If you're using Dyna's 3 ohm (or even less resistance, which I would not recommend) coils, I offer a Resistor Pack that protects the bike's wiring from the higher currents those units draw. The Ignition can handle the current, but typically the KILL switch on the handlebars slowly melts its solder (if the other connectors are in excelent shape) and goes bad over time from those coils. Some bikes slowly burn their little bullet connectors (the 2.5mm ones) from the extra current. Dyna recommends a 1-ohm resistor in series with those 3-ohm coils, but they don't sell one: now I do. 

These Resistor Packs are $15, plus shipping. Let me know which kind of coil you're using: I can get various resistances, too, for a few extra bucks. For example, the 2.2 ohm coils from the 1980 CB750 seem to be a popular (not the best approach) swap: those require 2 ohm resistors in these bikes. While these coils offer the replaceable wires, they are pulse-type CDI coils instead of dwell-type, so they will get pretty warm when run in a Kettering system.

Could you power the coils by using relays switched on by the stock wiring? You'd still need to address the bullet connectors but that's easy to do. Is there any benefit to doing this? I know it'll drive a higher output from the coils/plugs but do you really notice?

Right now I'm most likely going to keep the stock Honda coils but in the future I may build a hot 836.

Also are the resistor packs internal or external? Could I add them later?

TIA

[HondaMan]

Are there any other considerations I need to make if I install Dyna High energy coils using your ignition?

Thanks

If you're using Dyna's 3 ohm (or even less resistance, which I would not recommend) coils, I offer a Resistor Pack that protects the bike's wiring from the higher currents those units draw. The Ignition can handle the current, but typically the KILL switch on the handlebars slowly melts its solder (if the other connectors are in excelent shape) and goes bad over time from those coils. Some bikes slowly burn their little bullet connectors (the 2.5mm ones) from the extra current. Dyna recommends a 1-ohm resistor in series with those 3-ohm coils, but they don't sell one: now I do. 

These Resistor Packs are $15, plus shipping. Let me know which kind of coil you're using: I can get various resistances, too, for a few extra bucks. For example, the 2.2 ohm coils from the 1980 CB750 seem to be a popular (not the best approach) swap: those require 2 ohm resistors in these bikes. While these coils offer the replaceable wires, they are pulse-type CDI coils instead of dwell-type, so they will get pretty warm when run in a Kettering system.

Could you power the coils by using relays switched on by the stock wiring? You'd still need to address the bullet connectors but that's easy to do. Is there any benefit to doing this? I know it'll drive a higher output from the coils/plugs but do you really notice?

Right now I'm most likely going to keep the stock Honda coils but in the future I may build a hot 836.

Also are the resistor packs internal or external? Could I add them later?

TIA

Relay power to the coils is commonly done (search the forums for examples). I offer the relays, too. It boosts the feed voltage about 0.5 to 0.8 volt, depending on the condition of the existing wiring. With the low-ohm coils, I strongly recommend it to preserve the wiring and the RUN/OFF switch contacts, over time. Check my book for details. 

[gmen0101]

Sounds like a great thing for these bikes.  In for 1; Paypal sent last week, can't wait to install it.

Kevin

UPDATE: installed the ignition (a couple of weeks ago now).  Easy installation, smooth idle -- no issues at all. 

Thanks HONDAMAN!

[the-chauffeur]

Another glowing product endorsement here.

Took a while to find space to hide the unit on my SL350, but once I'd figured out where to put it, the install was dead easy.  With the unit installed, the idle rose a couple hundred RPM, which HM's comprehensive Q&A says indicates the coils have seen better days.  Ah well, I guess they are 41 years old . . .

Anyways, if you've got a bike with points, buy one of these gizmos.  They're great.

[GStarIndustries]

What would be the best coils to use with this ignition?

[HondaMan]

What would be the best coils to use with this ignition?

It will directly switch coils up to 4.8 amps (even on 120 degree F riding days), but these bikes can't handle that much current. So, you can use stock coils, Dyan 5-ohm or 3-ohm coils (depending on which bike you have), or Accel coils. A few have adapted the 1980 CB750/900 coils, using the 2-ohm Resistor Pack, and report decent results from the higher-output junkyard parts.

But, of these, only the CB750 can adequately support the low-ohm coils. If you have a 550 or smaller Four, stick with the stock coils or the Dyna 5-ohm coils. Of these, the Honda coils provide a longer spark, useful for easier starting and more torque at high RPM.

[Uglyduc2]

Hi Hondaman,
I'm new to this forum and amazed by the wealth of information - thanks. I have a 78 750F that I have owned for 10 years now and would like to prepare her for some long distance rides next summer. The ignition points have always been an issue and I have been thinking about replacing them with something more reliable. I think your product offers a great solution to points reliability and also offers a practical solution to roadside repair. I would like to order a unit from you and I can pick it up if you are in Lakewood Co, I live not too far away in Morrison Co. Please let me what I should do next, I will wait for you're response before going to paypal.

Thanks again.

[HondaMan]

Hi Hondaman,
I'm new to this forum and amazed by the wealth of information - thanks. I have a 78 750F that I have owned for 10 years now and would like to prepare her for some long distance rides next summer. The ignition points have always been an issue and I have been thinking about replacing them with something more reliable. I think your product offers a great solution to points reliability and also offers a practical solution to roadside repair. I would like to order a unit from you and I can pick it up if you are in Lakewood Co, I live not too far away in Morrison Co. Please let me what I should do next, I will wait for you're response before going to paypal.

Thanks again.

Hi, Duc!
I'm working in Golden, get there by way of Morrison daily. I an building a couple right now, as time permits: I've been working almost 80-hour weeks for a month, now. It will be a week or so before I have some more finished. Drop me a PM, maybe we can meet up.

[wannabridin]

Mark,

in case this hasn't been covered, does the security switch have to be hardwired to the box?  or can it have leads so it can be mounted remotely?

also, where are you working in Golden??  i went to Mines and lived in Golden for 5 years...  MAN i miss Coors lab and Golden City brew...

[HondaMan]

Mark,

in case this hasn't been covered, does the security switch have to be hardwired to the box?  or can it have leads so it can be mounted remotely?

also, where are you working in Golden??  i went to Mines and lived in Golden for 5 years...  MAN i miss Coors lab and Golden City brew...

It's not a 'trick' switch: the ones I make are built on the end of the box with a latching switch and 2 ON positions so it is easy to fumble in the dark...and a bump won't knock it to OFF (in the middle position).

All you need do is break the circuits to the coils with a DPDT switch that is rated 5 amps or more, with silver, butt-style contacts. If OFF, the coils can't be switched by the transistors.

I'm presently working where U.S. 6 and old Route 66 (aka U.S. 40) intersect.

[wannabridin]

Thanks for that clarification mark!  Good to know for when I give you some money soon

So how bout no snow this winter?? All in the mountains!  Keeps you riding longer with no sand on the roads huh ?

[HondaMan]

Thanks for that clarification mark!  Good to know for when I give you some money soon

So how bout no snow this winter?? All in the mountains!  Keeps you riding longer with no sand on the roads huh ?

Oh, yeah.
Except, I'm about to pull mine down for its first-ever full rebuild: I think the 140,000 miles was good service. Got all the parts: it's gonna be the blue one I always wanted, never had...maybe I'll have to do a build thread?

Naw...it would look like my book. 

[Uglyduc2]

Hondaman,
I am in no hurry for the unit. There are a few other things I need to do with the bike before she is road worthy. The bike has been in storage for a number of years and I just want to get her running again by spring. But if this dry winter continues I might get that spring fever in febuary. I will PM you.
Thanks