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Author Topic: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition in Dual, Single, and now Triple!  (Read 75162 times)

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Offline NPHLYT

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #75 on: December 27, 2010, 07:04:55 am »
Ok, I have one for you.... You said that this unit will work with a 6 volt system. I have one of those.... How can I tell if my 1962 Puch is pos or neg ground? Also, she is a single-twin with two pistons, two plugs and two coils, but one combustion chamber. Will your system work? I am not a big fan of points, but I am sure there is nothing I can do for this one, except use your system.
NPHLYT
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1962 Sears Allstate Puch

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #76 on: December 27, 2010, 08:07:51 pm »
Ok, I have one for you.... You said that this unit will work with a 6 volt system. I have one of those.... How can I tell if my 1962 Puch is pos or neg ground? Also, she is a single-twin with two pistons, two plugs and two coils, but one combustion chamber. Will your system work? I am not a big fan of points, but I am sure there is nothing I can do for this one, except use your system.

Oh, boy, I remember those! We also had the 106cc single version for years as well. But, it was a magneto ignition, so it could run without the battery, too. Will yours run that way? If so, this unit won't work for you.
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

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Offline NPHLYT

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #77 on: December 28, 2010, 04:39:52 am »
I have not tried yet, but I will find out when I go to get some parts for it next week.

Thanks.
NPHLYT
1970 CB750 Mutt
1962 Sears Allstate Puch

Offline Rocker

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #78 on: January 06, 2011, 11:31:22 am »
Lots of great info in this thread. I am seriously considering one of your ignitions. I like supporting club members when I can.

I have a 76 CB550 that I am building into a cafe racer. Build thread is in my sig. I am planning on doing a complete rewire of the bike: new harness, LED turn signals/break light, HID headlamp, ATO fuses, and will be removing the starter motor. My brother in-law races an amateur 600CC class in Oregon and suggested using an x-cell battery to save even more space. I've read a lot of the debate concerning them on this forum.

Do you see any issue with using one of your transistorized ignitions with any of this? Also any ETA on the rec/reg combo? I would like one of those too :)

Thanks!
« Last Edit: January 06, 2011, 11:33:11 am by Rocker »
~Rocker (aka Adam) | rocker@sohc4.net | SOHC/4 member #4151 | Facebook

Current Bikes:                   
1975 CB750 K5 pic                 
1974 CB360T " lil' twin " Rebuild thread
1976 CB550 K2 Cafe Racer build thread
1975 CB550 K1 parts bike Parted out and cut up.         
2003 VTX 1800C

Bikes I've had:
1974 CB550 K0
1976 CB750 K6

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #79 on: January 06, 2011, 08:36:31 pm »
Lots of great info in this thread. I am seriously considering one of your ignitions. I like supporting club members when I can.

I have a 76 CB550 that I am building into a cafe racer. Build thread is in my sig. I am planning on doing a complete rewire of the bike: new harness, LED turn signals/break light, HID headlamp, ATO fuses, and will be removing the starter motor. My brother in-law races an amateur 600CC class in Oregon and suggested using an x-cell battery to save even more space. I've read a lot of the debate concerning them on this forum.

Do you see any issue with using one of your transistorized ignitions with any of this? Also any ETA on the rec/reg combo? I would like one of those too :)

Thanks!


With my current schedule (through March, now), I won't be developing my Reg/Rec unit this winter.  :(  I'm facing a lot of 12-hour days until about mid-February!  :o

The X-cell units will work fine without the starter, and this Ignition helps with the foot-starting by making a stronger low-speed spark.
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline cafe550

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #80 on: January 09, 2011, 07:20:48 pm »
send me a pm on the gas cap pins info pics and price

thanks
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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #81 on: January 09, 2011, 07:40:47 pm »
send me a pm on the gas cap pins info pics and price

thanks


x2 please

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #82 on: January 09, 2011, 07:55:17 pm »
The gas cap pins: they are a fundraiser for sohc4.net. Each hinge set is $2.40, and shipping is $2.50 for up to 4 pin hinge sets in one envelope. The $1 "profit" from each set goes back to this site's support, for all of us.  :)

I don't have any pictures: they are just stainless steel screws, washers, and acorn nut(s) that won't spark if hit with steel (always a good idea around gas...).
You can Paypal me at mgparis@concentric.net, or send a check or money order: Mark Paris, 8903 W. Florida Ave., Lakewood, CO 80232.
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline cafe550

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #83 on: January 10, 2011, 04:41:56 pm »
do they work out fairly well......does any one here has a pic of them installed?
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Offline HondaMan

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #84 on: January 10, 2011, 08:20:23 pm »
do they work out fairly well......does any one here has a pic of them installed?

Here's a fuzzy closeup I just made.
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline climbingaz

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #85 on: February 09, 2011, 09:49:38 am »
Forgive my ignorance, but if I intall a Hondaman Ingition does that mean I no longer need to adjust the points gap and do the ignition timing?  ???

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #86 on: February 09, 2011, 06:32:12 pm »
Forgive my ignorance, but if I intall a Hondaman Ingition does that mean I no longer need to adjust the points gap and do the ignition timing?  ???

This gadget runs from the points. So, they must be properly set up and timed when you install it. The main advantage here is that they will not wear like they normally do, requiring adjustment every few thousand miles (I used to do mine at least twice each season, now it's been almost 5 years with no adjustment necessary). And, this unit also generates a stronger spark from whatever coils you now have, beating even a Dyna S trigger system's spark performance with those same coils.  ;)
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline wannabridin

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #87 on: February 10, 2011, 10:12:35 am »
Mark,

Payment away for one ignition box and resistor pack!!  Thanks again!  :)
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http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=64468.0

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Offline wannabridin

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #88 on: February 23, 2011, 02:16:40 pm »
Got my box and resistors in, man what a nice and professional looking unit!!!  Thanks mark!
1976 CB750K, currently under construction:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=64468.0

-And if you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do...

Offline Jt550

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #89 on: February 24, 2011, 05:00:03 am »
Hey Mark,
You got my mind in a spin. I'm not a ignition specialist, but I have delt with Boyer ingnition on my 69 triumph TR6... An it never gave me a lick of trouble.. But I did have to run a big ol batt an regulator plus the black box, an 1 main fuse. And if the batt was low I was F-ed.

Buy I'm really diggin on you system for my cb500 build.
I have to do a whole new wiring harness. And in that I'd like to hide as much of the elective as possible.

So what I'm getting at is, beside your box & a points set up, coils, batt.. What is need for the bike to work?? Reg/Rec? Fusebox? And how would I run my switches (kill,start,key,)????

Could you please fill me in.... I'm a little lost.. It's my first bottom up build.
Thanks for your time...
Jay
Tyler Durden: You're not your job. You're not how much money you have in the bank. You're not the car you drive. You're not the contents of your wallet. You're not your f*<king khakis. You're the all-singing, all-dancing crap of the world.

-78 CB550k with a BIG #$%* Eating Grin-

Offline HondaMan

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Re: Transistorized Ignitions, aka Hondaman Ignition...and Gas Cap Hinge Pins.
« Reply #90 on: February 24, 2011, 08:13:14 am »
Hey Mark,
You got my mind in a spin. I'm not a ignition specialist, but I have delt with Boyer ingnition on my 69 triumph TR6... An it never gave me a lick of trouble.. But I did have to run a big ol batt an regulator plus the black box, an 1 main fuse. And if the batt was low I was F-ed.

Buy I'm really diggin on you system for my cb500 build.
I have to do a whole new wiring harness. And in that I'd like to hide as much of the elective as possible.

So what I'm getting at is, beside your box & a points set up, coils, batt.. What is need for the bike to work?? Reg/Rec? Fusebox? And how would I run my switches (kill,start,key,)????

Could you please fill me in.... I'm a little lost.. It's my first bottom up build.
Thanks for your time...
Jay
Well, Jay, I think that's a topic for a post all by itself! It really shouldn't be in this post.
There's quite a few others here who have done a build like that: I'd suggest making a post in the "Project Shop" section, where you can collect lots of help from those who have done it before. You'll need a regulator and rectifier, and fusebox. The switches are handled in many ways: search for things like "Santee Box" and you'll get on the trail blazed by other custom builders here.  ;)
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline trebuchetxlt

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Hi Mark,

I’ve been reading the thread about your Transistorized Ignitions and was wondering what gauge wire you recommend for the primary feed circuit, as per your notes for best performance. I have a ’75 CB550 and wanted to check that the primary feed wire is the Black/White wire from the run switch to the coils, is this correct?
1975 CB550K
2013 CB500F

Offline HondaMan

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Hi Mark,

I’ve been reading the thread about your Transistorized Ignitions and was wondering what gauge wire you recommend for the primary feed circuit, as per your notes for best performance. I have a ’75 CB550 and wanted to check that the primary feed wire is the Black/White wire from the run switch to the coils, is this correct?


That's the right wire: on the 550, the easiest way to improve current to the coils is through a relay in the headlight, using the Run/Off switch to toggle is on and off, passing the power to the coils directly from the BLACK wire circuit in the headlight. Using the separate wire here (18 AWG is way big enough) can reduce the voltage drop found in all the connectors and the Run switch and, on some of the 550 bikes, the shared load to the headlight that feeds the START button, all on the same wire.

This all said, the 550 is often low on voltage from several other minor sources, like dirty alternator connectors and ground cables. Make sure all of those are clean, too.
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline HondaMan

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Thanks for the update. Sorry to sound dense but can you explain how to wire in such a relay, what type of relay to use and where to get the right type of relay?

How do I order one of your systems?


Please drop me a PM instead of putting it in this forum. I make kits for these things, too.
mgparis_at_concentric.net
« Last Edit: March 18, 2011, 09:06:32 am by SteveD CB500F »
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline spotthedogg

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I just sent payment for a kit for my CB360, sadly i thought I did this a month ago but stupidly sent the money to another seller on my Paypal list. Not sure how :-\

Offline HondaMan

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I just sent payment for a kit for my CB360, sadly i thought I did this a month ago but stupidly sent the money to another seller on my Paypal list. Not sure how :-\

Sometimes folks send it to "...concentric.com" enroute to me, and I never see those, either.  :-\
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline Skud

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G'day Mark,

I have restored a 1975 CB400F, every nut and bolt etc.
I went the Dyna route..lovely spark for 4000 clicks until yesterday.
Basically bike struggles to even fire..spark now very intermittent to non existent.
Have the Dyna 5ohm coils and the regulator/rectifier.
Am very disappionted ..bordering on disgusted.
I came across your transistorised Ignition unit while looking for reports of similar experiences with the Dyna stuff....seems like it is not uncommon.
..so, I'll be ordering one of your units for sure...as I particularly like the easyswap back to the original point system if needed..

...in the meantime I would like to be sure that I have run all the necessary checks to see if the problem is not the Dyna but some other wiring problem.
Even if I get it going again I will be taking it off and installing one of yours.

I would be most appreciative if you would list the sort of things I should be checking for, to trouble shoot the intermittent spark Dyna problem
I have already acted on your advice to others re checking connections,earth, fuses etc but with no success. Any suggestions will be most appreciated

so now to order one of your setups...some queries please..where have folk located the unit on the CB400?..i.e. will I need longer wires than the stock model ? Does the kill switch also switch from your setup back to the points ..I think I read that you were going to incorporate this feature. and can I  run your system happily with the Dyna 5ohm coils and the Dyna rect/reg right ?..I gather with the 5 ohm coils  your unit generates more heat so I will need the bigger unit with the heat sink right.. have you any feedback as to where this unit was mounted on the CB400 ?..Ok ..I await your reply with considerable interest, and  can't say how pleased I was to come across your unit..thanks   Ian P.S. I'm in Oz

Offline HondaMan

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G'day Mark,

I have restored a 1975 CB400F, every nut and bolt etc.
I went the Dyna route..lovely spark for 4000 clicks until yesterday.
Basically bike struggles to even fire..spark now very intermittent to non existent.
Have the Dyna 5ohm coils and the regulator/rectifier.
Am very disappionted ..bordering on disgusted.
I came across your transistorised Ignition unit while looking for reports of similar experiences with the Dyna stuff....seems like it is not uncommon.
..so, I'll be ordering one of your units for sure...as I particularly like the easyswap back to the original point system if needed..

...in the meantime I would like to be sure that I have run all the necessary checks to see if the problem is not the Dyna but some other wiring problem.
Even if I get it going again I will be taking it off and installing one of yours.

I would be most appreciative if you would list the sort of things I should be checking for, to trouble shoot the intermittent spark Dyna problem
I have already acted on your advice to others re checking connections,earth, fuses etc but with no success. Any suggestions will be most appreciated

so now to order one of your setups...some queries please..where have folk located the unit on the CB400?..i.e. will I need longer wires than the stock model ? Does the kill switch also switch from your setup back to the points ..I think I read that you were going to incorporate this feature. and can I  run your system happily with the Dyna 5ohm coils and the Dyna rect/reg right ?..I gather with the 5 ohm coils  your unit generates more heat so I will need the bigger unit with the heat sink right.. have you any feedback as to where this unit was mounted on the CB400 ?..Ok ..I await your reply with considerable interest, and  can't say how pleased I was to come across your unit..thanks   Ian P.S. I'm in Oz

Hi, Ian!
I'm real sorry about the Dyna: it does seem to be a common thing in the last 2 years or so. It makes me wonder if Dyna is having some sort of design issue or maybe a bad batch of parts, as they used to be better.  :(

With the 5 ohm coils, my unit has no issues. It's the 3-ohm coils that make the heat you're referring to: in those situations it requires a Resistor Pack more to protect the bike's wiring than the Ignition, as mine now withstands those coils just fine. In particular, the RUN-OFF switch on the handlebars slowly deteriorates with those "hot" coils, and the little bullet connectors in the Blk/Wht coil feed circuit take a beating.

On the 400F, they seem to get mounted either in the tool tray (sans tools) or at the bottom of the "triangle" area under the seat, below the battery. In either position, they should be lashed down snugly with Ty-wraps or some sort of clamp or bracket. The prettiest installation on the Baby Fours I've seen was on Loonymoon's 350F: search the forum for that one. She had a bracket made that set it vertically next to the air intake under the seat: it looked factory! When I get my 350F, I'm gonna do that...

There is a separate option called the "Security Switch" (Terry in AUS calls it the 'kill switch') that can be custom-built into this box. It disconnects the coils when in the OFF mode (center position) if bike theft warrants a little more security. This option is $25, and has to be ordered at the time of build. It takes me a couple extra days to make one like that (It's a tight fit inside!). I'm making one for Wohali just now.

The Dyna: try these things, at least -
1. Lately, they seem to be exhibiting an "aging" phenomenon after a few thousand miles, where their gaps need to be reset again. Personally, I have seen this on 2 CB750 setups here in Denver in the last year. They were first installed with gaps of about .035" )one was at .038"), and after they acted up we reset them with gaps of 0.030" instead. This was last Fall. I don't think they were driven much since then, but they started and ran OK when they left and didn't strand those riders. I have also seen it the other way' round, where they came here with gaps of less than 0.022", which was just too close for them to work right. Those 2 bikes (CB550) idled poorly, and one of them would quit on 2-3 when hot.
2. Check the splice on the wire that delivers power to the plate. The 3M splice that was on the 2 units I saw here (which came with their Dynas new) was the wrong size: they received blue ones with their kits, which should have been red ones. The blue ones are for larger wire sizes than the red ones, and the thin wire to the Dyna plate was getting a too-light contact. This made one of the bikes intermittent. I changed the blue one on this bike to a red one and spliced it to the Black wire on the voltage regulator, which is an appropriate gauge size for the red splice. This wire is smaller than the main Black wire in the rest of the harness, so it makes a good matching point.

 :)
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

Offline Skud

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G'ady Mark....prompt and comprehensive reply as usual....very much appreciated.

....the good news is..I reinstalled the original points after my last post...and wallah...
we have spark and the old girl is back to life...dam relief that it was the Dyna afterall..
..so that's history cause it's a few months out of warranty..
sort of kinda nice to be back with the points chugging away...
...when checking the timing with the strobe I notice the "F" timing mark on the advance
mechanism bounces a bit..is this normal or have I got wear in the advance mechanism somewhere..?

...so as I understand it then the kill switch setup does not also switch from your setup to
the points only...is that right..?

....assuming that is correct I wont require the kill switch option thanks..

....so the most important bit then Mark.... how do I order one of the units and
 what is the current waiting time ?
Cheers   Ian



Offline HondaMan

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G'ady Mark....prompt and comprehensive reply as usual....very much appreciated.

....the good news is..I reinstalled the original points after my last post...and wallah...
we have spark and the old girl is back to life...dam relief that it was the Dyna afterall..
..so that's history cause it's a few months out of warranty..
sort of kinda nice to be back with the points chugging away...
...when checking the timing with the strobe I notice the "F" timing mark on the advance
mechanism bounces a bit..is this normal or have I got wear in the advance mechanism somewhere..?

...so as I understand it then the kill switch setup does not also switch from your setup to
the points only...is that right..?

....assuming that is correct I wont require the kill switch option thanks..

....so the most important bit then Mark.... how do I order one of the units and
 what is the current waiting time ?
Cheers   Ian




The "jitter" you see in the timing is coming from the shaft that holds the advancer down being bent a little bit. This is extremely common on the Fours, and comes from turning the big nut CCW (as you look at it) when attempting static timing on the points. It can be fixed: in my book and here on the forums (some years ago, now) I showed how to fix this: you must remove the points plate and advancer, set up a dial indicator between the engine case and that bare shaft (near the middle of the shaft) and rotate the engine with either the kickstarter (clumsy) or the alternator bolt (extra gasket time). You can then tap the shaft to concentric again with a small hammer, gently bending it back where it belongs. You'll probably find yours to be about 0.010" out of true: that's when it starts showing up as timing jitter.

Then in the future, just don't turn the crankshaft backwards again with the big nut.  ;)

The handlebar Run-Off (aka 'kill') switch will still function normally with my unit installed, if that's what you're referring to (?). I also make an optional "Security Switch" in these units that kills the coils so the bike can't be started or easily hotwired unless the thief is real SOHC4-savvy and also understands this ignition. In Chicago, Los Angeles, and New York, this is a popular option.

I'm running about 1 week behind on Ignition orders just now, but am building a bunch of them every week. For the ordering details, please go back to the first entry in this post: the info is there.  :)
The demons are repulsed when a man does good. Use that.
Blood is thicker than water, but motor oil is thicker yet...so, don't mess with my SOHC4, or I might have to hurt you.
Hondaman's creed: "Bikers are family. Treat them accordingly."

Link to Hondaman Ignition: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=67543.0

Link to My CB750 Book: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=65293.0

Link to website: www.SOHC4shop.com

 

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