Topic: '75 CB550F restoration: Project Lolita

[greasy j]

I need one of those prograbits. I just stripped the hell out of a bolt under my shifter cover by using the wrong tip in the air impact. was gonna do it the chisel way, might grab that kit if it's that cheap.

pretty funny how you reactivated the paint and used it elsewhere. I have plenty of paint, though. and it might've been good to prime it. but if it works...

still wanna try to meet up next weekend? I can bring some touch up paint.

that's awesome you got the compressor and all. I can help you get set up for paint if you like. or you could just come down here to slandro and use my setup, save yours for tools. I have a spray booth and some nice guns. and a good air drying system, which helps a lot. plus lots of experience. just buy the paint. and help me with my electrical.

josh

[Zaipai]

I need one of those prograbits. I just stripped the hell out of a bolt under my shifter cover by using the wrong tip in the air impact. was gonna do it the chisel way, might grab that kit if it's that cheap.

pretty funny how you reactivated the paint and used it elsewhere. I have plenty of paint, though. and it might've been good to prime it. but if it works...

still wanna try to meet up next weekend? I can bring some touch up paint.

that's awesome you got the compressor and all. I can help you get set up for paint if you like. or you could just come down here to slandro and use my setup, save yours for tools. I have a spray booth and some nice guns. and a good air drying system, which helps a lot. plus lots of experience. just buy the paint. and help me with my electrical.

josh

Here is the website..
http://www.aldn.com/prograbit/
It lists the set of 3 for 6.95 however I am wishing I got the 4 pc set, and Lowes had it on sale so it may be closer to the $7 mark where you are depending on the store etc..

.: Scott :.

[TyMatthews]

I need one of those prograbits. I just stripped the hell out of a bolt under my shifter cover by using the wrong tip in the air impact. was gonna do it the chisel way, might grab that kit if it's that cheap.

pretty funny how you reactivated the paint and used it elsewhere. I have plenty of paint, though. and it might've been good to prime it. but if it works...

still wanna try to meet up next weekend? I can bring some touch up paint.

that's awesome you got the compressor and all. I can help you get set up for paint if you like. or you could just come down here to slandro and use my setup, save yours for tools. I have a spray booth and some nice guns. and a good air drying system, which helps a lot. plus lots of experience. just buy the paint. and help me with my electrical.

josh

Yeah man, for sure!  Today was crazy busy; I ran around the greater East Bay area picking up a grinder/buffer with heavy duty pedestal stand (brand new, never used from Lafeyette), the air compressor in Redwood City, a toolbox full of air tools (socket wrench, impact driver, grinder, and a gazillion connectors and whatnot) from San Jose, a trip to Home Depot in Emeryville for the soda blasting container parts, and a quick stop at the Ace Hardware in El Cerrito for the Alden ProGrabIt screw extraction kit.  And to top all of that, I just got back from the Giants/Braves game in SF... damn what a long day.  Tomorrow I shall put together the soda blaster, try my hand at the upper triple and maybe some other parts, and probably build a workbench.  So much prep just to get to the point where I can start restoring stuff!

I'll call you tomorrow and we can sort out a time.  I'm thinking now of just painting the frame silver instead of trying to brush/polish it and clear coat.  There's a lot of crappy factory welds on there which I don't think will turn out very good, or will require a lot of time to grind down to a smooth and presentable surface. 

On a separate thread... do you think you could shoot that Honda candy orange color I showed in a prior post on page 2?  It's a factory color on the VTX 1800R, amongst others I imagine.  I found the Honda code and the respective PPG color code for it.  If so, I'll pay you to paint my tank and tins, so you can add to your portfolio!  I'd like to do the prep work myself, block sanding the body filler/primer and taping off, as I'd like to practice those things, but the final paint coats I must leave to someone who knows what they're doing!  We'll chat tomorrow...

[traveler]

what are you going to do for a seat, BTW?

~Joe

[TyMatthews]

what are you going to do for a seat, BTW?

~Joe

I ordered a new reproduction black seat cover.  I'll carefully take off the old brown one and try to sell it.

[TyMatthews]

Day 15 update:

Spent most of this weekend collecting tools to continue with the restoration.  I channeled my inner carpenter and built a heavy duty worktable so I could get the engine off the floor.  Bought a bunch of supplies to make a soda blasting cabinet, then started its build using a 34L plastic container from Target.  The silicone sealer around the Plexiglas is now curing; hopefully tomorrow I can finish it up and maybe start using it!  I chose to mount the glove ports on the bottom of the container, and the Plexiglas's along the tapered side.  I wanted more horizontal space to work on parts.  The gloves are sandblasting gloves from Harbor Freight which have a little longer reach than the typical dishwashing sized gloves. 

Instead of hooking up the cabinet to a shop vac, which I do not possess, I decided to go with a shop vac filter and bought a tapered tin ventilation tube to mount directly to the side of the container.  The shop vac filter then seals directly onto the tube, and the tube will be sealed to the inside of the container.  That way the air has a path to get out readily, but the dust and particles do not.  And maybe the garage will be a bit quieter.  We'll see how it turns out tomorrow.  It rained hard all day today, so I don't have any pics of the new cabinet, but I'll post them as soon as it's done.

I cleaned some more parts, disassembled the electrical brain, cleaned the starter motor solenoid and related cables

My current ToDo list:

• Get the frame sandblasted, then grind off the passenger foot peg mounts.  Those things look simply hideous.  It's like someone decided after the fact that they needed a place to mount the pegs, and simply tacked on a cheap steel plate directly to the frame in the cheapest method possible.  I don't like it.  So I'm going to fashion up a new mounting plate to fit flush within the inner contours of the bent tubing, then get someone to weld it in there for me.  This will move the rear pegs forward perhaps 3 inches or so.
  
  
  
  After that slight modification, I'll paint the frame silver.  All of the other chassis-related parts will be the same color.
  
• Finish taking apart the motor, then clean and re-paint all of its external surfaces.
• Start blasting all of the hardware (with the new soda cabinet!)  This is my biggest hang-up at the moment, not having a means to clean all the metal parts properly.
• Blast the gas tank, side covers, and rear fender, then prep them for painting.
• Remove the stay bars from the front fender and figure out how best to patch over the mounting holes.  Then blast it and prep for painting.
• Gather all the parts I want stripped and chrome plated, find someone to do both things, and get them shipped off.  Right now my list is just the tach and speedo covers; I have not yet decided what to do with the chain guard/cover... paint or chrome?  If paint, what color?  Agh... decisions!
• Figure out what to do about the shocks... attempt to clean and re-chrome, or paint, or replace?
• Decide on bar-end turn signals versus fabricating custom ones.  Here is what I'm considering:
  http://www.kandstech.com/productreleases/newprod114.pdf
• Disassemble the wheel hubs, clean and polish them up, rebuild with new bearings, then ship them + rims off to get new spokes, trued, etc. at Buchanan's.

Lots to do!

[fastbroshi]

  I saw a VTX in the parking lot one time that was a dark metallic orange, with a bit of a copper tinge.  Not as dark as the copper paint jobs that are becoming popular.  It wasn't as bright but it definitely popped.  Maybe you could use that? 

How I didn't see the post before I typed the above I dunno, but you picked the right one, trust me.  It looks great.

[Zaipai]

Remove the stay bars from the front fender and figure out how best to patch over the mounting holes.  Then blast it and prep for painting.

You could use JB weld, I like it for this type of thing. Mostly be cause it hardens great, and can be sanded down and does not crack later..

Decide on bar-end turn signals versus fabricating custom ones.  Here is what I'm considering:

I like these very much, I have to see them on the bike but they are cool, I had not seen those before.. might be a great choice..

Figure out what to do about the shocks... attempt to clean and re-chrome, or paint, or replace?

At about $100 for new ones, it just may be worth while to get new ones, unless your doing some thing really custom. Your time is worth some thing and certainly you could save money some place else or don't mind the expense to save some time and hassle...

.: Scott :.

[TyMatthews]

You could use JB weld, I like it for this type of thing. Mostly be cause it hardens great, and can be sanded down and does not crack later..

That's something worth trying.  The holes shouldn't be very big, so it might work out well.  I have no problem sanding until my hands fall off!

I like these very much, I have to see them on the bike but they are cool, I had not seen those before.. might be a great choice..

I'm 90% certain I'll go with them.  It'll be easier (and probably cheaper) just to use those rather than trying to make my own.  It'd be fun to try, but I'm worried about how home-made ones will actually look, having never done it before.  The nice thing about the bar end signals is that they're 360°, so they double for both front and rear usage.  So long as other drivers can see them from both front and rear, I think they'll work fine.

At about $100 for new ones, it just may be worth while to get new ones, unless your doing some thing really custom. Your time is worth some thing and certainly you could save money some place else or don't mind the expense to save some time and hassle...

I started looking for replacements the very first week, and got a bit of sticker shock from the ones I found.  If they were more reasonable I wouldn't think twice about it.  They are 35 years old, and shocks just don't last that long, so maybe it's time for new ones.  Any good recommendations?

[Zaipai]

I started looking for replacements the very first week, and got a bit of sticker shock from the ones I found.  If they were more reasonable I wouldn't think twice about it.  They are 35 years old, and shocks just don't last that long, so maybe it's time for new ones.  Any good recommendations?

Yea, I bought mine from here http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm the fit and finish is awesome, however I got the lowered ones but they have the regular ones in Black/Chrome and all combos of that from about $89.00 to $120 for the Heavy duty rear shocks.

Goto the website click on Chassis on the left menu, then click Suspension Parts and then finally Rear Shocks...

Not sure how much cheaper you could find them, ether way you are right.. its time to replace them..

.: Scott :.

[fastbroshi]

http://www.kandstech.com/productreleases/newprod114.pdf[/li][/list]

Woh, those are pretty cool.  I can't believe I haven't seen those before.

[TyMatthews]

Yea, I bought mine from here http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm the fit and finish is awesome, however I got the lowered ones but they have the regular ones in Black/Chrome and all combos of that from about $89.00 to $120 for the Heavy duty rear shocks.

Sweet, thanks for the link!  I think I'll order the black on black and just paint part of it silver to match the frame color.

[greasy j]

I need one of those prograbits. I just stripped the hell out of a bolt under my shifter cover by using the wrong tip in the air impact. was gonna do it the chisel way, might grab that kit if it's that cheap.

pretty funny how you reactivated the paint and used it elsewhere. I have plenty of paint, though. and it might've been good to prime it. but if it works...

still wanna try to meet up next weekend? I can bring some touch up paint.

that's awesome you got the compressor and all. I can help you get set up for paint if you like. or you could just come down here to slandro and use my setup, save yours for tools. I have a spray booth and some nice guns. and a good air drying system, which helps a lot. plus lots of experience. just buy the paint. and help me with my electrical.

josh

Here is the website..
http://www.aldn.com/prograbit/
It lists the set of 3 for 6.95 however I am wishing I got the 4 pc set, and Lowes had it on sale so it may be closer to the $7 mark where you are depending on the store etc..

.: Scott :.

thanks

[greasy j]

Yea, I bought mine from here http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm the fit and finish is awesome, however I got the lowered ones but they have the regular ones in Black/Chrome and all combos of that from about $89.00 to $120 for the Heavy duty rear shocks.

Sweet, thanks for the link!  I think I'll order the black on black and just paint part of it silver to match the frame color.

yeah, I was broke when I redid my bike last time so I used some old shocks. def something to just replace. but you can take them apart and clean them up. I painted my springs w/ rubber. not worth the time, cuz they just don't work that well after that long.

[TyMatthews]

Yup, I just ordered new shocks and will paint them as needed.

Day 17 update:

Spent this evening taking apart the seat in preparation for new vinyl.  As you may recall, the vinyl cover on this bike is brown, which is not desirable for my build (black is the target).  The vinyl is in really good shape, however, and I don't want to just pitch it.  So I carefully took it off tonight and made sure not to add any damage to it.  During the strip-down of the seat, I noticed that quite a few of the metal spikes that hold the vinyl in place were completely corroded.  Particularly along the side of the seat with the hinge.  Some were so bad they completely crumbled in my hands as I was wiggling off the vinyl.  I managed to extricate the cover without any problems, although it's apparent now that I'm going to have to do some kind of modification to restore the edge that is really gone.  Blasting and painting can't correct for something that doesn't exist anymore!

The foam is still excellent, without any tears, gouges, holes, or other missing bits.  It felt comfortable enough for me when I first test rode the bike, so I think I'll just re-use it after cleaning it up a bit (it has rust stains in quite a few places).  The seat pan looks solid aside from the edges that have corroded.  So I'll first blast the whole thing to bare metal and evaluate where it's at.  Maybe it'll be possible to cut out the corroded/thinned area and weld in a new strip. I  suspect no place sells just a replacement (stock) pan?  That would be swell if they did.  The replacement black vinyl cover and strap arrived today, so I'm good to go there.  The strap holders/screws were also heavily corroded, so I'll have to do some repairing there, as well.  More stuff to send off to get stripped and re-plated.

[Stev-o]

Nice build thread going.

Interested in selling the brown seat cover?

[traveler]

things seem to be progressing well.

Seems to me, it would be more cost effective to just use the chisel trick to remove bolts, and replace with a new bolt and cover the threads with anti-sieze, rather than buy a new tool. 

Remember, anti-sieze is your friend.  Especially when steel bolts are in aluminum.....dissimilar metals and all.

It's what I do, FWIW.

~Joe

[TyMatthews]

Nice build thread going.

Interested in selling the brown seat cover?

Indeed.  Here are some pics of the before and after.  As you can see in the latter images, there's some rust residue around the strap mounting locations, and of course around the rim where it directly latched onto the seat spikes.  Other than those rusty areas, the seat is in excellent shape as there are no tears or even evidence of previous repair jobs.  It probably just needs a good polishing.  I forgot to take a close-up pic of the strap itself, which of course would also go with it.

things seem to be progressing well.

Seems to me, it would be more cost effective to just use the chisel trick to remove bolts, and replace with a new bolt and cover the threads with anti-sieze, rather than buy a new tool. 

Remember, anti-sieze is your friend.  Especially when steel bolts are in aluminum.....dissimilar metals and all.

Well I've already purchased the ProGrabit.  I'd have to purchase the chisel if I wanted to do that trick, so I'm buying a new tool either way.

I'll definitely be using anti-seize on all bolts prior to final assembly.

[Gcolgett]

HiTy: how did you come up with the spark plugs that you used? In the good old days I used Champion R6G on my CB550F they were a hotter plug but now are they are no longer made. GC 

[TyMatthews]

HiTy: how did you come up with the spark plugs that you used? In the good old days I used Champion R6G on my CB550F they were a hotter plug but now are they are no longer made. GC 

I read somewhere on these forums a recommendation for NGK plugs.  So I went here:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/motorcycles/default.asp?mode=nml

Chose Honda... then CB550F under model... and clicked on the red X under "Standard Plug".  [rant]Pretty crappy GUI design, if you ask me... the link that should appear under that heading should read either the part number or the stock number (D7EA and 7912, respectively).  Oh well.[/rant]

I bought mine from BikeBandit:

http://www.bikebandit.com/ngk-spark-plug

Just searched for D7EA in the "Options" drop-down box.  Note that I've only purchased them, not actually used them yet... so I can't comment on their utility yet.  Give me maybe... 2 months?  I wish.  Well, I hope to be up and running in a couple months.  LOL.  The weather is getting better all the time, and I want to be riding this in July!

[traveler]

I say ditch the chain guard....ugly looking thing!

~Joe

[traveler]

http://www.kandstech.com/productreleases/newprod114.pdf[/li][/list]

Woh, those are pretty cool.  I can't believe I haven't seen those before.

No such thing as cool blinkers

~Joe

[Zaipai]

http://www.kandstech.com/productreleases/newprod114.pdf[/li][/list]

Woh, those are pretty cool.  I can't believe I haven't seen those before.

No such thing as cool blinkers

~Joe

Around here.. Blinkers are way cool, with out them you get hit period.. Hand signals or not, if you don't have blinkers, you don't get seen..

+1 blinkers! 

.: Scott :.

[Stev-o]

How much for the seat cover?

Nice build thread going.

Interested in selling the brown seat cover?

Indeed.  Here are some pics of the before and after.  As you can see in the latter images, there's some rust residue around the strap mounting locations, and of course around the rim where it directly latched onto the seat spikes.  Other than those rusty areas, the seat is in excellent shape as there are no tears or even evidence of previous repair jobs.  It probably just needs a good polishing.  I forgot to take a close-up pic of the strap itself, which of course would also go with it.

things seem to be progressing well.

Seems to me, it would be more cost effective to just use the chisel trick to remove bolts, and replace with a new bolt and cover the threads with anti-sieze, rather than buy a new tool. 

Remember, anti-sieze is your friend.  Especially when steel bolts are in aluminum.....dissimilar metals and all.

Well I've already purchased the ProGrabit.  I'd have to purchase the chisel if I wanted to do that trick, so I'm buying a new tool either way.

I'll definitely be using anti-seize on all bolts prior to final assembly.

[TyMatthews]

Around here.. Blinkers are way cool, with out them you get hit period.. Hand signals or not, if you don't have blinkers, you don't get seen..

+1 blinkers!  

I concur... +1 for blinkers.  I know they're not as cool-looking, but I'm unwilling to sacrifice safety for coolness, particularly when it comes to road worthiness.  I plan on riding this bike when she's done... a LOT!  Especially after all the time I've put into her.  The worst possible thing I could ever imagine would be getting rear-ended by a car who didn't realize I was turning.  And then I'd feel like a complete dumbass, assuming I'm still alive, for not putting on some form of blinkers and instead were picking the bike off the pavement in thirty different mangled pieces.  God, that would be so horrible.

I ordered the bar-end turn signals this evening.  I'll post some pics when they arrive, and you can judge for yourselves how cool they are!  And of course plenty o' pics when they're actually mounted on the new superbike bars, whenever those arrive.