O.K. That's what I was doing, just found it time consuming (which I do not mind as long as there is a benefit) so that's why I was wondering about the tolerence. I'll see when I recheck them.
One quirk I found in the manual (among many actually) is that in getting to the starting point it says to look for the 1-int to retract then start to rise. I believe they got it backwards. You want to see 1-int rise then start to retract. (e.g. at it's hishest point as viewing it through the hole with the cap off. It's at this point you can allign the "T" mark. This is the position where I found it posible to get the .002 feeler in the gap.
Speaking of caps. I want to replace the o-rings (about 28mm round) I am going to look in Home Depot or a hardware store for them rather then go to the dealer. I am sure the dealer will want $2.50 a piece where I can get a package for just a few bucks and more convenient. Have any of you found them this way?
The manual is right. The #1 intake goes down all the way (retract) then starts to rise. At that point you look for the T. If you wait for it to begin to retract again, it will have gone too far and you'll have to back the motor up. Not the end of the world, but the idea is to never back the motor up.
It may just be an interpretation issue, but your recall of the manual is correct, and the manual is correct.
I tend to have lots of inspection cap Orings left over from broken gasket sets. Never bot one from the hardware, but should be OK. A tip, don't crank the inspection cap down hard. They should be hand tight, then 1/8 to 1/4 turn to set the Oring. Run it and if one seeps, tighten it a bit more.
There are many threads here about people who have broken caps or stripped the heads because they were on too tight.